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Advice on Wax / Polish / Other



I clean my car 2/3 times a week and make sure its clean when i can, but never polished or waxed it myself, always paid someone to do so.

what advice of products and tools or techniques i need or can use?

Thanks
Tony
 
thanks alot :)!

read that thread but still unsure what these different steps do, could anyone shine a little light into my eyes and tell me the basics behind them?

- Claybar
- Polish (ive always thought its to smooth the paint work and make water bounce off the car)
- Cleanse (never heard of it before, as quite new to this detailing)
- Sealant
- Wax
 
Last edited:
  Ph1 172 (titanium)
thanks alot :)!


- Claybar
- Polish (ive always thought its to smooth the paint work and make water bounce off the car)
- Cleanse (never heard of it before, as quite new to this detailing)
- Sealant
- Wax

Claybar- will rid car of bonded contaminents, that ironx (metal contam. Remover) or Tardis (tar remover) does not remove. And leave a mirror finish ready for polish.

Polish gets the car ready for LSP. (Last stage product). Removing swirls and defects.

Cleanser will get rid of any oils left behind from fillers in polish. Though some people may not want this as it makes the car look better. Poorboys black hole contains these fillers. Making swirls appear less severe or dissappear.

Sealants and waxes are what repell water. Not polishes. And it's up to you weather you use both. A good wax will suffice
 
  Ph2 Meg 225
Clay bar is to remove any contaminations from the paintwork grime etc
polish I believe is to remove scratches swirls etc and make the paintwork less dull (some may provide some protection for water but not many)
cleanse to remove any polish residue and existing wax I think,
not sure on the sealant
wax Is to make the water bead and run off the paintwork to prevent less water marks

the detailer experts will confirm this though
 
  Ph2 Meg 225
Don't use sponges when washing the car though as they scratch the paint, get a wool wash mitt and for applying polishes and waxes get some foam pads to prevent streaking etc. :)
 
  Golf GT & A4 Avant
Pre wash - a rinse with a hose or a citrus bases spray that will help break down dirt and traffic film, softens it all really for a.proper wash. Some use a pressure washer and snow foam for this.
Wash two bucket method - this is the safest way to wash a car and the method ans products gally has stickies at the top if the section.
Decontamination - iron and tar removers will break down safely all those black spots that stick to the car from brake dust to tar from road works. Rinse again after this stage. Look at ironx, iron out, Tardis, obliTARate
Clay - this is used with a lubricant to try and avoid inflicting more damage, to remove further bonded contaminants like sap and aphids droppings that stick to the paint.
Polishing - look at menzerna or 3m range for removing swirls and taking the edge off deeper marks, typically only really achieving decent results with a machine polisher like a dual action or rotary. Fair results can be achieved by hand with the like of p1 and others but is long hard work. This stage removes micron levels of the clear coat. His stage does not add any form of protection. Any water behaviour is down to the clean level surface.
Cleansing and glazing - the likes of amigo, blackmax, lime prime. These will have chemical cleansers to cleanse the paint, or have fillers to help hide any swirls. This stage isn't always needed if you've fully corrected when polishing. Whereas some would prefer not to polish and just use cleansers and fillers to give he look. These finishes are only temporary and will last as long as the protection you put on top.
Last stage product (LSP) - waxes and sealants. Two different types can be used here to seal in all your hard work and protect it against he weather. This will also help keep your car cleaner for longer, and make washing much easier as the contaminants can't bond as easily. There's a.huge choice that depends on budget, durability, look, water behaviour, etc etc the list is endless

All this is for your first major detail, after this you simply need to wash with two bucket method. You can top up with more wax or sealant provided the surface is still clean. Once your protection starts to fail after say 4 to 6months then look into starting again

Anyone else that asks these questions had better have searched first
 
  Ph1 172 (titanium)
I use dodo juice btbm (born to be mild) for wash.

I also snow foam before hand.

Autosmart g101 for wheels and tires, and areas of build up around bodywork.

Bilt hamber regular clay. Don't need a lube to use it. Just water. Although you could if you want.

Polishes, you can't go wrong with megs 105 and 205.

Wax I use collies 476's! Good beading and very durable.

Get some good microfibres. Good drying towels. I love my CG's wooly mammoth. A sheepskin mitt for wash.
Also a quick detailer. I use mine as drying aid and works a treat
 


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