CLIP diagnostic software, London. Immobiliser solid light.

[RuskiWeldFab]

Hi Guys. Anyone local to Wembley with that software that is willing to scan my car for me? [emoji51]? obviously not for free. The car in a state so not transportable. Having immobiliser issues. Solid light staying on. Cranks for few seconds than stops. The usual. Already checked almost everything. Car run on Saturday. On Sunday I chopped ABS and AC wiring from engine loom and immobiliser light won’t go away. Checked all wires, relays, fuses, plugs, sensors, grounds etc. As far as I can see should work. Currently run out of options. Next step, is gonna source donor ECU, UCH, Key to Try if that works. Otherwise running out of ideas. Any help would be appreciated. But I already read 30+ posts regarding this.

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[barnesautos]

@pule333

Check pin 27 and 57 from the engine ecu back through the white engine bay plug and the bulkhead harness and through to pin 19 and 20 on the UCH .
Make sure none of the pins are bent in the bulkhead connector .
Also it’s known the loom can break above the gearbox where it sits .

Also check the relay , the connections can get shitty causing issues.

 

[RuskiWeldFab]

@pule333

Check pin 27 and 57 from the engine ecu back through the white engine bay plug and the bulkhead harness and through to pin 19 and 20 on the UCH .
Make sure none of the pins are bent in the bulkhead connector .
Also it’s known the loom can break above the gearbox where it sits .

Also check the relay , the connections can get shitty causing issues.

Thank you for this. But already tried it . I run a length of wire directly from 27/57 to 19/20 bypassing R107 and the white connector. Still nothing.

The thing is, when I was chopping wires to ABS plug on Sunday(before car ran) I did not cut any wires directly between bulkhead connector and white plug. However, white connector has those 2 wires cut, witch makes me believe they were going to ABS plug instead. (And a few other wires as well. I already depinned all from R107 plug but not from white plug)

Is it possible that from ABS plug they some how route back to bulk head plug??

Because on the bulkhead I already removed them from engine side(but still there on the interior side (the ones o tapped in to directly from ECU)

Hope it makes sense..[emoji33][emoji27]


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[Usr117063]

I have a clip but im a bit far, my cars not mot'd and in a bits as well! Dont suppose you could tell me where the brake rez cap sensor goes to in the loom? As I know its bundled with the abs loom

 

[RuskiWeldFab]

I have a clip but im a bit far, my cars not mot'd and in a bits as well! Dont suppose you could tell me where the brake rez cap sensor goes to in the loom? As I know its bundled with the abs loom

Black going to earth next to wiper motor. Pink going to bulkhead connector R107. Pin F9

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[barnesautos]

Fuse 6 & 37 all ok ?
Also pin 8 UCH - Pin 4 On ring of key reader .
12v @pin 3 of key reader
Earth @pin 2
Fuse 28 feeds the key reader
Also pin 9 & 10 is can high and low also . Don’t have a destination for those two
@pule333

 

[RuskiWeldFab]

Fuse 6 & 37 all ok ?
Also pin 8 UCH - Pin 4 On ring of key reader . -
12v @pin 3 of key reader
Earth @pin 2
Fuse 28 feeds the key reader
Also pin 9 & 10 is can high and low also . Don’t have a destination for those two
@pule333

all fuses are fine. double cleaned
all pins from key reader check out. no broken wire tested with multimeter, have earth, 12V and signal.
pin 9 and 10 go to relays. no breaks.
got 2 new relays today, no diffrence.

traced wires from ABS plug (twisted purple and white, dead end no loops)

any more ideas? have ECU,UCH coming tommorow to test another theory.
this is getting proper annoying, relly dont know what to do next

 

[barnesautos]

Fuse 6 & 37 all ok ?
Also pin 8 UCH - Pin 4 On ring of key reader . -
12v @pin 3 of key reader
Earth @pin 2
Fuse 28 feeds the key reader
Also pin 9 & 10 is can high and low also . Don’t have a destination for those two
@pule333

all fuses are fine. double cleaned
all pins from key reader check out. no broken wire tested with multimeter, have earth, 12V and signal.
pin 9 and 10 go to relays. no breaks.
got 2 new relays today, no diffrence.

traced wires from ABS plug (twisted purple and white, dead end no loops)

any more ideas? have ECU,UCH coming tommorow to test another theory.
this is getting proper annoying, relly dont know what to do next

I understand you’ve only cut from the aircon ecu to the big plug and UCH , and from the abs harness to the white plug , is that correct @pule333

 

[RuskiWeldFab]

I understand you’ve only cut from the aircon ecu to the big plug and UCH , and from the abs harness to the white plug , is that correct @pule333

correct. all the wires from both ABS and AC plugs were either going to bulkhead plug or white plug. nothing else was chopped. also a power relay for the AC was chopped or could have been ABS relay. basicaly prowiding power to either of those plugs and not even connected to anythng else. The car was running before with all of those plugs not connected.

 

[barnesautos]

Did your ecu and UCH and key fix your problem ?

 

[RuskiWeldFab]

Did your ecu and UCH and key fix your problem ?

Not arrived yet. Expecting tommorow. But in all honesty almost unconvinced myself that going full custom loom is a bit OTT. Just want to get it running with OEM loom to prove to myself it’s not my fault it ain’t running but faulty components. Or other way round lol and I should let professionals deal with electrics.. I litteraly run out of ideas why it’s ain’t working. Quadruple checked everything I could! All should be peachy but it ain’t! Immobiliser stays solid. But also after chatting with @bloke (massive thanks for spending time on this with me) it does point more and more to faulty UCH. Because I am having turn signal/ hazard lights Xmas tree scenario at same time and somehow it’s all related...


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[RuskiWeldFab]

Ok, well today replacement ECU UCH arrived. no diffrence! same issue! any one else has any ideas what else i can check? seems like i checked absolutly everything 3 times over.. i am officially lost now! this thing is broken! imoboliser light solid. no check engine light. and dash lights up when pressing hazards.

 

[Acethepower]

I know I am clutching at straws as last post was 2 years ago lol, I have this exact issue, having done everything in every thread I can find, including continuity check every pin of the uch to ecu and every plug on the loom to the ecu, swap the ecu uch and key, cleaned and tested all relays and fuses and generally pull my hair out to no avail.

Did you ever get to the bottom of this?

 

[barnesautos]

Have you checked all necessary powers and earths at the ecu ?

 

[Acethepower]

Have you checked all necessary powers and earths at the ecu ?

I've successfully continuity checked pins 3, 33, 28 and 67 with battery negative and successfully continuity checked pins 30 and 66 with battery positive.

is it worth checking for 12v on 30 and 66 with battery connected?

 

[barnesautos]

I've successfully continuity checked pins 3, 33, 28 and 67 with battery negative and successfully continuity checked pins 30 and 66 with battery positive.

is it worth checking for 12v on 30 and 66 with battery connected?

You need to volt drop pin 66 as that one has a tendency to rot .
Thick red wire I found in a loom once .

 

[barnesautos]

You need to volt drop pin 66 as that one has a tendency to rot .
Thick red wire I found in a loom once . View attachment 1474856

 

[barnesautos]

Also have you checked pin 29 .
Power to there comes from 7.5amp fuse in engine bay and also via a 5amp fuse in the side of the dash .

 

[RuskiWeldFab]

I know I am clutching at straws as last post was 2 years ago lol, I have this exact issue, having done everything in every thread I can find, including continuity check every pin of the uch to ecu and every plug on the loom to the ecu, swap the ecu uch and key, cleaned and tested all relays and fuses and generally pull my hair out to no avail.

Did you ever get to the bottom of this?

Yes. Binned the lot and went standalone with all new custom wiring!


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[Acethepower]

Wow cheers for the fast replys folks.

So I've checked pin 29 to the coil of the fuel pump relay and that has continuity, going back into the garage soon to vdrop test all power pins on ECU.

I'll keep you posted

 

[Acethepower]

So I've just vdrop tested the power pins on ECU in ignition 2 on the key and got these results

Pin 66 - drop of 0.07v
Pin 30 - drop of 0.02v
Pin 29 - drop of 0.07v

I also continuity checked from pin 29 to engine bay fuse and 5 amp fuse in the dash with no issues.

Can anyone see an issue with these numbers?

Thanks again.

 

[Acethepower]

I should have mentioned in case it has any value to finding this problem, the car started and ran fine and then I changed the clutch and now I have this solid immobiliser non starter.

 

[barnesautos]

I should have mentioned in case it has any value to finding this problem, the car started and ran fine and then I changed the clutch and now I have this solid immobiliser non starter.

If you’ve a stand alone ecu , it doesn’t have immobiliser circuit in it ?
So no reason why it shouldn’t run

 

[Acethepower]

If you’ve a stand alone ecu , it doesn’t have immobiliser circuit in it ?
So no reason why it shouldn’t run

I have a standard ECU and continue to have solid immobiliser light oil pressure light stop serv and ESC light. I might have to throw in the towel and call an autospark.

 

[barnesautos]

I have a standard ECU and continue to have solid immobiliser light oil pressure light stop serv and ESC light. I might have to throw in the towel and call an autospark.

Seems to me your pretty much on it .
You’ve done what an auto sparks will do .

If everything checks out , then it’s UCH swap with key and ecu from a donor car .
A lad on FB group recently had same issue and it was the UCH .
So he swapped out the bits and bingo it fired up .

Maybe you need to go this route if you are confident you have checked everything .

 

[Acethepower]

Seems to me your pretty much on it .
You’ve done what an auto sparks will do .

If everything checks out , then it’s UCH swap with key and ecu from a donor car .
A lad on FB group recently had same issue and it was the UCH .
So he swapped out the bits and bingo it fired up .

Maybe you need to go this route if you are confident you have checked everything .

Problem is I've already swapped ECU UCH and key fob from donor car (that were working fine before removal) and got exactly the same issue. I'm going to recheck everything and stick the battery on charge, might order some new relays just in case. I suppose if all else fails I can get it recovered to Mick at diamond and let him have a crack at it.

Thanks again barnesautos you're doing me a solid with these speedy replies

 

[barnesautos]

Problem is I've already swapped ECU UCH and key fob from donor car (that were working fine before removal) and got exactly the same issue. I'm going to recheck everything and stick the battery on charge, might order some new relays just in case. I suppose if all else fails I can get it recovered to Mick at diamond and let him have a crack at it.

Thanks again barnesautos you're doing me a solid with these speedy replies

Double check all the connections in the bay , earth on and off clean them up .
I’d even go as far as remove the dash plug behind the washer pump and separate that for good measure .

 

[barnesautos]

Why don’t you check all the relay outputs to the ecu and volt drop those as well .

 

[Acethepower]

Is there a stupid Renault procedure (like ignition on for 30 seconds then off for 30 seconds get out the car pat my head three times...) I have to do to (I know this isn't the right term)"reset" everything once I've gone through everything again or should it just work?

 

[barnesautos]

Is there a stupid Renault procedure (like ignition on for 30 seconds then off for 30 seconds get out the car pat my head three times...) I have to do to (I know this isn't the right term)"reset" everything once I've gone through everything again or should it just work?

Others have said , press and hold the key fob switch while turning the ignition on .

But to be honest a solid red light is coded line fault from UCH to ECU comms .

So chip key is ok atm in theory

 

[Acethepower]

Others have said , press and hold the key fob switch while turning the ignition on .

But to be honest a solid red light is coded line fault from UCH to ECU comms .

So chip key is ok atm in theory

So in theory the only thing that can cause solid red is 27 and 57 to 19 and 20 fault?

 

[barnesautos]

So in theory the only thing that can cause solid red is 27 and 57 to 19 and 20 fault?

Not just those .

For the UCH to function properly , I’d be checking all those wires especially earths ect , as we all know s**t earths can cause this .

 

[Acethepower]

So I've cracked it!!! Unbelievable feeling to hear it start up.

In the end I figured the only place that the connection issue could be was between the ECU and the ECU plug so I studies the female mins on the plug and low and behold pins 30 and 57 were a bit splayed out soto test my theory I put a little aluminium foil into the female pin, carefully reconnected the ECU and turned the key. My heart pounded as the serv, stop, ESC and oil pressure light went out, I stared at the immobiliser light with the combined will of a thousand helpless Renault owners but it's persistent red glow did not falter. Almost fizzing with anticipation I then turned the key back, forced in the fob button with all of my might and turned the key again. This time all lights illuminated and all lights were extinguished, after a few seconds I gathered my self and turned the key further to be met with a victorious roar from the f4r.

Got a bit carried away there, but I'm so happy. Thank you so much Barnes autos you are a hero. This was my first electrical win so I'm over the moon.

 

[barnesautos]

So I've cracked it!!! Unbelievable feeling to hear it start up.

In the end I figured the only place that the connection issue could be was between the ECU and the ECU plug so I studies the female mins on the plug and low and behold pins 30 and 57 were a bit splayed out soto test my theory I put a little aluminium foil into the female pin, carefully reconnected the ECU and turned the key. My heart pounded as the serv, stop, ESC and oil pressure light went out, I stared at the immobiliser light with the combined will of a thousand helpless Renault owners but it's persistent red glow did not falter. Almost fizzing with anticipation I then turned the key back, forced in the fob button with all of my might and turned the key again. This time all lights illuminated and all lights were extinguished, after a few seconds I gathered my self and turned the key further to be met with a victorious roar from the f4r.

Got a bit carried away there, but I'm so happy. Thank you so much Barnes autos you are a hero. This was my first electrical win so I'm over the moon.

Well done to you .
An achievement indeed .
Glad you persevered and got to the end .

Bet your well happy [emoji2][emoji1303]

 

[Acethepower]

Well done to you .
An achievement indeed .
Glad you persevered and got to the end .

Bet your well happy [emoji2][emoji1303]

Yes I am, absolutely elated cheers mate.

 

[Fraser.mac182]

Okay so im having the exact same issue! Just put the engine back in went to turn the key and there was nothing apart from a solid red light. I cleaned out the fuses and relays and it now cranks for a few seconds then stops. I stripped back the ecu wiring but cant see anything obvious. I tested the resistance across the purple and white twisted wires that goto the uch plug pins 19 and 20 iirc. There was no resistance indicating that there fine. I pulled the white plug apart in the engine bay and found a bunch of corrosion. I cleaned it all up put it back together and still nothing. Checked the pins mentioned above for continuity to the earths and for power all seems good. There is 4ohms of resistance toan earth on pin 66on the ecu plug which i belive is a positive . So could this indicate a short? Any help appreciated