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Electrical + Engine Management Lights



Right,

Just had an engine swap done on a 182 and upon first start the electrical fault light and engine management lights came on. Also the car is stuck in what seems to be limp mode. It won't go above roughly 3k revs and can't go faster than 50mph.


Fault code reader returned:

298 Pedal Potentiometer Track 2 circuit
267 O2 Sensor Signal after Cat
95 Circuit pedal Position Sensor
Coherence between Track 1 and 2

We took it back to the garage and got it cleared. Upon startup the car returned the 298 pedal potentiometer Track 2 circuit error again.


Now the codes would suggest that we replace the pedal sensor etc but I thought it may have something to do with the engine being swapped over - hence the solution not being as simple as we think.


Would appreciate any ideas really before we take it back in the morn.
 
Last edited:
Mates just called me and I'm finding what he's told me a little strange :S

He replaced his sidelights with LEDs, pushed a few of the connectors in on and around the inlet manifold and then started the car and it was absolutely fine! Takes it for a quick spin to the petrol station and the car seems absolutely fine. Fills up with petrol, jumps back in the car and it starts back up in limp home mode.

Baffling...

Also, he says when he has his foot on the brake pedal the throttle pedal doesn't work at all.
 

MicKPM

ClioSport Trader
  Clio16v/Zoe Z.E.50
You need to understand the problem first before you can fix it I'm afraid and a code reading session won't help you achieve this.

Scope time to see what the ecu is seeing (or isn't in this case) to make it throw the reduced output mode.

Most likely cause is a wiring issue leading to a voltage creep on that circuit.
 
Cheers for the reply... any recommendations on what we can do to try and read the variables of what the ECU is seeing? Would CLIP help?
 

Dr HMS Derv Destroyer

ClioSport Club Member
  MK1DTi/vivaro/corsa
Before you start pulling everything off, go back and check over everything you did. Even a pinched wire can caulsing issues

I presum you just swapped the bare engine and used all the old bolt on parts such as throttle body ect?
 
Think we've fixed the problem!

Got the mechanic to check the wiring and end plugs. It was the white connecter that goes to the engine fuse/relay box. Had a bit of corrosion on there apparently so he sorted it out and the car has been fine since.

Ironically it was one of the suggested solutions that MicKPM had posted in another thread a few years back for a similar problem.

Thanks guys!
 


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