Engine Management Light!

[JoeBananas]

Right then, only had the 182 for a month and I've got a bit of a problem.
The yellow (bottom right hand corner) engine management light has come on the first time I let the wife drive it.
It's only done 40k so it's a little complicated when knowing what needs attending to. 40k miles and 11 years doesn't usually happen.
Got the coolant changed last Thursday (it's about 1" above the max if this matters) and now the light has come on. I've run the secret on-board diagnostic tool and got the message "t", I've cleared that fault but the management light is still on. The t stands for "an injection fault has been detected for a minimum of 4 seconds".

Anyone got any ideas before I have to give in and take it to a garage?

Thanks in advance.

 

[STEVE.M]

The t stands for "an injection fault has been detected for a minimum of 4 seconds".

I`m happy to be schooled, so where did that gem come from?

 

[Louis]

It's hard to really be sure over the forum. The "t" could have been an old fault and doesn't really tell you anything. It could be anything from a failing lambda to a fubared cat. How mechanically minded are you? If you're willing to give repairing it a go yourself (as it'll probably be something fairly simple) i'd get a hold of a diagnostics device which you can keep and use. You can go as simple as getting a bluetooth one (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ELM327-Bl...051381?hash=item25970dc2b5:g:M8gAAOSwGtRXxU-f) and downloading the torque app or buying a more expensive one.
Torque app works fairly well to diagnose EML's and also allows you to turn them off, but it doesn't always point you in the right direction.
If you're going to take it to a garage for work to be done anyway, they'd probably want to run diagnostics themselves.

You could always try disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes, and reconnecting to see if it clears it.
The clio has had it's belts done too, right? (Not that it's linked to your EML).

 

[Louis]

I`m happy to be schooled, so where did that gem come from?

You hold down the end of the stalk, and then turn on the ignition. You can get to a screen with '- - - -' and one letter 't' e.g. '-t--' means an injector fault has been detected in the past. Could be anything though, don't think they're reliable.

 

[STEVE.M]

You hold down the end of the stalk, and then turn on the ignition. You can get to a screen with '- - - -' and one letter 't' e.g. '-t--' means an injector fault has been detected in the past. Could be anything though, don't think they're reliable.

I do that to check how much fuel I have left, but have seen anything other than t.
I always assumed - - - - would have a code if there was a fault.
My car has never displayed an injector fault on any code reader from a £10 wonder to Clip.

 

[JoeBananas]

Steve.M
t mean an injection fault has been detected for a minimum of 4 seconds
J means a fault has been noted on the fuel gauge. It must have disconnected for longer than 100 seconds. The resistance from the fuel tank sensor needs to be between 5 and 350 Ohms.
d means an injection signal fault has been detected
h means an oil level sensor fault has been detected. Resistance from the sensor should be between 6 and 20 Ohms. Any reading over 20Ohms is an open cicuit anything under 3 is a short circuit.
----------------------------------

Louis'
I have considered getting one of those diagnostic devices. There was a guy on YouTube using one connected via wifi to an app on his phone. Seemed a useful piece of kit.
I think I'm going to have to give in and get the local garage to have a look, there's too many possibilities. He's a good guy so I don't think he'll charge a lot.
(Cam belt was done last year by previous owner.)

Thanks for your help Louis'

 

[Louis]

Steve.M
t mean an injection fault has been detected for a minimum of 4 seconds
J means a fault has been noted on the fuel gauge. It must have disconnected for longer than 100 seconds. The resistance from the fuel tank sensor needs to be between 5 and 350 Ohms.
d means an injection signal fault has been detected
h means an oil level sensor fault has been detected. Resistance from the sensor should be between 6 and 20 Ohms. Any reading over 20Ohms is an open cicuit anything under 3 is a short circuit.
----------------------------------

Louis'
I have considered getting one of those diagnostic devices. There was a guy on YouTube using one connected via wifi to an app on his phone. Seemed a useful piece of kit.
I think I'm going to have to give in and get the local garage to have a look, there's too many possibilities. He's a good guy so I don't think he'll charge a lot.
(Cam belt was done last year by previous owner.)

Thanks for your help Louis'

The bluetooth one is very simple to use, and you can also live track your lambda so would be able to see if it's knackered. Bet the mrs has smashed your lambda off on a pothole
Cambelt done at a specialist? Are you running a decat out of interest? As my EML is on, but it's on because of the decat i believe. Doesn't give me any issues (touch wood). You can clear the codes, and then have them come back a fair few miles later with the same issue, so the PO may have cleared it and it's just come on again now after driving the car for a bit. Diagnostics will tell you the issue though!

 

[Louis]

I do that to check how much fuel I have left, but have seen anything other than t.
I always assumed - - - - would have a code if there was a fault.
My car has never displayed an injector fault on any code reader from a £10 wonder to Clip.

I'm not sure how reliable the one on the car is, i definitely wouldn't ever use it for diagnostics... It holds Holds faults, and dying batteries can cause it to display wrong codes etc.
Think you flick through a few different menus by pressing the end of the stalk, then clear with the trip reset button. You're right though, rather than displaying ' - - - - ' it instead would show a letter in place of a '-'.

 

[STEVE.M]

Did that come from the owners manual?
afraid I`ve never seen one.
You can clear the t?
how please?

 

[JoeBananas]

The bluetooth one is very simple to use, and you can also live track your lambda so would be able to see if it's knackered. Bet the mrs has smashed your lambda off on a pothole :wink:
Cambelt done at a specialist? Are you running a decat out of interest? As my EML is on, but it's on because of the decat i believe. Doesn't give me any issues (touch wood). You can clear the codes, and then have them come back a fair few miles later with the same issue, so the PO may have cleared it and it's just come on again now after driving the car for a bit. Diagnostics will tell you the issue though!

You're probably right about the wife, wouldn't put it past her to c**k it up.
Good idea with the Bluetooth one, think I'll order one now.
Cat still there and belt done by a proper company. It's been looked after very well, I'm only it's third owner. It hasn't been used much at all which may bring up some problems, like the rust on the back box cos of tootling short journeys.

 

[JoeBananas]

Did that come from the owners manual?
afraid I`ve never seen one.
You can clear the t?
how please?

Press the mileage reset button.

 

[Louis]

You're probably right about the wife, wouldn't put it past her to c**k it up.
Good idea with the Bluetooth one, think I'll order one now.
Cat still there and belt done by a proper company. It's been looked after very well, I'm only it's third owner. It hasn't been used much at all which may bring up some problems, like the rust on the back box cos of tootling short journeys.

Sounds good mate, you can get the torque app (free) in the play store, but paying for the premium one is worth it. You can also get a free version of the premium app just by googling for the APK though but supporting the developers etc etc. Don't touch the disk that comes with that bluetooth diagnostic, heard before they have a virus (how true that is i dont know) but it's not needed anyway.
If you have any problems using the ELM just send me a message, used mine plenty!

Be sure to get a build thread/pics up of your clio too. Everyone loves a clean standard low mileage example.

 

[bloke]

torque is shite, waste of money.

 

[Louis]

Rusty standard backboxes are very common too. Renault just gave you the built in obsolescence to let you upgrade.

torque is shite, waste of money.

It's not amazing, but for simple diagnostics/ tracking of the lambda i wouldn't say it was shite? Nothing beats a proper diagnostic device, but torque gives you a general idea.

 

[STEVE.M]

then clear with the trip reset button.

Thanks for that.
All in all, about as much use as a chocolate fire guard.

 

[bloke]

It's not amazing, but for simple diagnostics/ tracking of the lambda i wouldn't say it was shite? Nothing beats a proper diagnostic device, but torque gives you a general idea.

i would, it is. not wanting to sound arsey but it's next to useless, i've seen it miss numerous faults and misread as well.

 

[Louis]

i would, it is. not wanting to sound arsey but it's next to useless, i've seen it miss numerous faults and misread as well.

I did say it doesn't always point you in the right direction. Are there better apps, or just bin off the bluetooth diagnostic completely? It detected the lambda problems fine on my 1.2, aswell as the injector problem.
Detected the failing lambda on my 182 too, granted it could also have other problems besides this!

 

[JoeBananas]

Rusty standard backboxes are very common too. Renault just gave you the built in obsolescence to let you upgrade.


It's not amazing, but for simple diagnostics/ tracking of the lambda i wouldn't say it was shite? Nothing beats a proper diagnostic device, but torque gives you a general idea.

Sounds good mate, you can get the torque app (free) in the play store, but paying for the premium one is worth it. You can also get a free version of the premium app just by googling for the APK though but supporting the developers etc etc. Don't touch the disk that comes with that bluetooth diagnostic, heard before they have a virus (how true that is i dont know) but it's not needed anyway.
If you have any problems using the ELM just send me a message, used mine plenty!

Be sure to get a build thread/pics up of your clio too. Everyone loves a clean standard low mileage example.

Totally aware the boxes get rusty, did plenty of research on here before i bought it. Filled it with hammerite kurust, looks a lot better, until I save up for ktec etc exhaust.
Where abouts does the diagnostic thing plug in? Under the ash tray?

 

[bloke]

i've got slightly older version of this that i use for quick reads...http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Autel-Max...305656?hash=item3f5b9315b8:g:5UcAAOSwnLdWq7v-

to be honest i use it more than clip and delphi as it's very rare it will let me down, great having the graph for live data especially for lambda sensors.

you can probably get it cheaper that was just the first one i found on ebay.

 

[Louis]

Totally aware the boxes get rusty, didn't plenty of research on here before i bought it. Filled it with hammerite kurust, looks a lot better, until I save up for ktec etc exhaust.
Where abouts does the diagnostic thing plug in? Under the ash tray?

Yep, pull it up and out, and it's under a little flap.

 

[JoeBananas]

Yep, pull it up and out, and it's under a little flap.

Cheers pal

 

[STEVE.M]

Cheers pal

Boys will be boys.

 

[oVerboost.]

If it drives fine, and MPG isn't effected don't worry. The orange light will probably go out soon... a few cycles of starting/stopping the engine and it'll clear itself. Post cat lambda sensor can throw up the light, as can wet conditions, all common on these cars.

 

[JoeBananas]

If it drives fine, and MPG isn't effected don't worry. The orange light will probably go out soon... a few cycles of starting/stopping the engine and it'll clear itself. Post cat lambda sensor can throw up the light, as can wet conditions, all common on these cars.

Could go out on its own accord but a couple of days before the light came I did start to notice a strong smell of petrol coming from the exhaust. I think that would suggest a lambda problem.