ClioSport.net

Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

  • When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.

F4R Crank Seal...



A

ashy_gtt

Hi chaps, just a quick one...

I have an issue with the crank seal (behind the flywheel) leaking oil, its only recently started and its not a huge amount but its pretty annoying.

Now I understand its an engine out job to swap it out but I really can't be arsed to do it, i'm sick of pulling engines out... So I was wondering, just to give me an easy ride really, would there be an mileage in dropping the sump, whipping that cap off and just moving the seal slightly?? I'm thinking its probably worn a groove in the crank and might re-seal if I moved / rotated it slightly??... Or would I be wasting my time and I should just bite the bullet Any opinions?

Cheers Ashy.
 
  172 cup
Be wasting your time. Why not whip gbox off with engine still in, drop one side of sub frame effort
 
  ITB'd MK1
easier to pull the lump out of the 5 surely? no PAS lines or anything.

Be aware that it's not at all unusual for the leat to actually be from the crank bearing cap rather than the crank seal, so you might need to remove that too anyway
 
A

ashy_gtt

its not in a 5 its the wifes 182 mate, had the engine out before but im getting old and lazy!

I guess it would be easier to drop the box out the bottom then? Saves messing around with the air con and cooling sytem I guess?

I noticed the bearing cap is sealed in place when looking at an old engine, is there a reno recomended paste to use like 'Thixo Paste' on the 5's or is it just any high temp sealant OK?

Thanks Chaps.

Oh and also if the box is coming out the bottom does anyone have a list of what needs to come off and what doesn't to save me time?

I guess the subframe needs to come down a long way in order to get the box out between it and the chassis leg...

My assumption would be:
Support engine, remove subframe bolts, passenger side shocker, drop links, dogbone mount, exhaust bracket, does the steering rack need to be removed rack from the steering column?

:star:
 
  ITB'd MK1
would have used thixo originally, but IIRC it's not available now. Just decent RTV silicon will do fine, it's about how it's applied more than what is used. most people miss the bottom corners and dont use enough, be generous with it, and smooth it off after.
 


Top