Filler flap rust fix

[hipwell]

Hey guys.

Finally got around to starting the fix on my filler flap rust.

So i started by drilling the 3 rivets off to get rid of the plastic cover.

Drilled the bottom bolt of the flap out and half of the top bolt so I can leave the flap on for now as it's going dark so I'll continue tomorow after work.

The rust behind the plastic I was expecting isn't bad at all which I'm happy about, seen much worse on the thread of the petrol blue 182 but I'll rub that bit down and paint anyway.

The bit behind the flap is a different story though, the metal is mega thin now, but hopefully I've caught it just in time.

So tomorow plan, drill rest of the top bolt out and start rubbing down.

Clean the rear and rub down and just stick a big thick layer of hammerite on as it's out of sight.

Prime paint and clear coat the main side, again doesn't need to be perfect so I'll be using a rattle can.

Assuming m5 stainless nut and bolt will be best for fixing it back on, assume I can get them at toolstatiom?

My main worry is what I'm going to fix the plastic bit back on with.
I don't own a rivet gun so I'm wondering what's best to use to get that back on?

 

[JamesBryan]

Borrow a rivet gun.

 

[Louis]

Or buy one, they're super cheap

 

[Louis]

Hammerite isn't as good as it once was. I'd get some zinc phosphate on it first as a preventative then hammerite if you want to go that way. Just make sure they won't react. Hammerite reacts with everything

 

[Mbeau]

Use stainless allen head bolts, washers, spring washers and nuts to fix all of it back on in case you need to remove it in the future. That is what I did on my Cup and looks good.

 

[hipwell]

Cheers lads. I think we might have a rivet gun at work.

What sort of primer will I need to go on top of the rust inhibitor? Etch? Epoxy? Normal grey stuff?

Sorry I'm not too clued up on the painting business lol

 

[Short Norman]

POR-15 gets mentioned quite a bit on Cutters. No idea how you use it but our filler flap has rust too so will be looking into it pretty soon.

 

[Akay]

I used stainless bolts, nuts and washers instead of rivets for easier maintenance.

I used a flap wheel/wire brush to remove loose bits, kurust to convert the rust, then zinc primer, followed by stonechip for the bits under the wheel arch, regular colour paint for the inside bit.

 

[hipwell]

POR-15 gets mentioned quite a bit on Cutters. No idea how you use it but our filler flap has rust too so will be looking into it pretty soon.

Get it while you can mate, I have been putting it off for 2 years and now the metal is wafer thin where the flap bolts on

The metal on the left is still solid so it shows how much has rusted away

 

[hipwell]

Well, this is as far as I am up to now.

I could find anything local other than kurust so after sanding down I put some of that on and allowed to dry before priming.

Metal is mega thin at the flap side but hopefully I got it just in time.

Hard bit tomorow, getting the colour on and hoping the rattle can I bought blends in ok.

 

[1985michael182]

So, I'm not trying to burst your bubble but... with all the brown rust you have left in there it will be only a matter of weeks before the rust bubbles through again. Only way the make it last a while is to wire wheel as much as you possibly can out. Then use your rust convertor. Not much point in a zinc rich primer as it won't do much. Straight on with etch and then primer.
Only way to fully sort it is to weld a new fuel filler neck panel in, but then 1/4 would need painting. Other than than your going the right way about it.
The bolts you want are called button head bolts, either torx or Allen key

 

[bloke]

Yup, the rust is going to come back through.

For paints or treatments as a rule anything that forst sell is good, especially por15 stuff.

Don't be afraid to use a good wheel acid to get rid of dust as well. Rinse it with vicar mixed in water to neutralise it fully.

 

[hipwell]

No probz, I'll give it a more thorough rubbing down next weekend.

It's been a bit if a rush job after work as I'm away at the weekend so I just wanted to get some primer on it to give it some protection.

I might have a practise run at getting a decent finish with the blue paint tonight and then start again next week.

The hardest part was drill8ng the damn bolts out anyway!

 

[R29TJR]

Good thread @hipwell

I think I need to do this to my Clio also as I noticed some rust the other week however I'm nervous I wont know where to stop...

Keep us posted.

 

[hipwell]

Good thread @hipwell

I think I need to do this to my Clio also as I noticed some rust the other week however I'm nervous I wont know where to stop...

Keep us posted.

Cheers dude

Have a go mate, even if the final coat looks a bit naff at least it should give a few more years out of it before it falls off lol. It's behind the flap anyway so youl only see it when filling up lol

 

[1985michael182]

Mine needs doing also. But ill probably weld a new one in just before I get the car wrapped.

 

[Pricey98]

Mine is getting a bit iffy also. Need to get a small area of bubbling on my passenger arch addressed soon, so will get bodyshop to do filler cap area at the same time. If it does need new metal in the fuel cap area, I'm assuming any mk2 clio panel would fit, or would bodyshop just fabricate something themselves? Not that bothered about it looking perfect as it's obviously hidden behind flap, just want rid of the rust...

 

[JamesBryan]

Mine is getting a bit iffy also. Need to get a small area of bubbling on my passenger arch addressed soon, so will get bodyshop to do filler cap area at the same time. If it does need new metal in the fuel cap area, I'm assuming any mk2 clio panel would fit, or would bodyshop just fabricate something themselves? Not that bothered about it looking perfect as it's obviously hidden behind flap, just want rid of the rust...

Any mk2 panel should fit i'd imagine. Basically the same shell.

 

[1985michael182]

Renault must still do em

 

[hipwell]

Well here's how it finished. Had the afternoon off work to start again lol

Just needs rubbing down to blend the ridge

 

[imprezaworks]

On a side note I have those tyres, decent.

 

[hipwell]

On a side note I have those tyres, decent.

They were purchased on your reccomendation.

Can't fault em to be honest. How are yours doing for wear?

 

[imprezaworks]

Yeah spot on mate.

 

[Amos91]

Looks... rusty lol.

 

[hipwell]

Looks... rusty lol.

Lol, I stripped the primer back from the first pics and had the drill and wire brush attachment on it for about half an hour but it was going nowhere so re treated it and primed again.

It turned quite black and solid so hopefully converted alot of it.

 

[1985michael182]

Best tool for the job is a MBX wheel. It's a wire wheel but the ends are turned in and it basically sandblasts the metal by picking at the rust.

Not cheap but if your in the trade it's a massive time Saver. Just have to be careful not to warp panels with it though

 

[JamesBryan]

£340 for a glorified wire wheel ?

 

[hipwell]

Hmm we'll see how long it takes to bubble through again, I just keep an eye on it.

I've been wondering, would fibreglass and resin be a good solution to thickening the panel back up?

Mine must have lost more than half it's thickness to the rust and thought about using resin and fibreglass to thicken it up, and it would seal the existing metal?

Or is that a really bad idea?

 

[1985michael182]

I wouldn't as if water gets between the glass and steel it cant get out so it will rust it's way out. Black wax oil the rear of the panel, but remove any lose crap first. Could also put clear wax oil between any matting faces to reduce water sitting behind your fuel flat base and the filler neck.

 

[1985michael182]

£340 for a glorified wire wheel ?

It's stupidly expensive bud but it really does work... a normal wire wheel starts to polish rust up after it hits a hard part n it'll go a black colour. That MBX wheel laterally picks the rust out back to bare steel. If panels are really pitted tho it rips them to bits just as a sand blaster would.
Like I said it's not a home tool really it's more trade because of the price

 

[Louis]

Best tool for the job is a MBX wheel. It's a wire wheel but the ends are turned in and it basically sandblasts the metal by picking at the rust.View attachment 1378786
Not cheap but if your in the trade it's a massive time Saver. Just have to be careful not to warp panels with it though

The bristle blaster. We have one at work for prepping pipes before deploying probes, savage things! I would not be using them here.
They leave marks that look just like pitting!
Small flap disc or drill wire brush will be perfect for removing the rust here

 

[1985michael182]

I use them at work as a panel beater bud

 

[Louis]

In tight places like this? Surely you're at a huge risk of damaging the rear quarter?

 

[1985michael182]

Depends how competent you are I suppose. Yes they can be savage but you need to read the situation. If your going to the point of bare metal whats the point in leaving rust in the pits and then you painting over it, won't last 2 minutes.
If the panel is that bad that you risk making holes then the panels are scrap anyway.