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Lift eh bonnet, and stand in front of the car. The one on your left is easy to do in situ.
The one on the right is a bit more work. Grab a 10mm socket and undo the little black box thats connected to the airbox. Remove it. Then you can get to the bulb. Its fiddly but about a million times easier than removing the bumper.
In fact, I think Brown Bear did a guide somewhere??
Hi, got the same problem, although have found the pictures and did as instructed, but having large hands I am still struggling to get to the bulb. Which way do I twist the thing or do I just pull ?