Headunit keeps forgetting settings!

[CrippsCorner]

Have you got a multimeter? Easiest way to test.
Hold positive needle on + , negative needle on - , Should read 12v.
Hold positive needle on Remote, negative needle on - , again should read 12v with ignition on.

If not showing any volts, or much less that 12v, it will be an earth problem.
If showing ~ 12v on both, most likely be amp problem.

Okay, strange results! In that it's one of each...

+ & - = 0v
Rem & - = 11.71v

Also, just whilst I was at (dunno if it means anything!)

Rem & bat = 10.69v
Rem & earth = 11.72v

The earth point is definitely good because I took it off and tried again and results were 4.23v & 5.21v

Does that help to identify the problem lol?

On another note my sub is 240/480w max, 4Ohm, 20-200Hz

Thanks for your continued help

 

[James28]

By the looks of it, You've got no 12v running from the battery, as your showing 0 Volts between + and -, when that should be 12v same as remote
Your remote is fine, and so is your ground wire, or you wouldn't be reading any volts between the remote and ground.

So I'd be looking at your big red wire from the battery.
Checked the fuse inline fuse wire?
Tried touching the positive and then the negative prong against bare point in chassis, just to double check your positive battery feed.

 

[Djw John]

Power cable issue as James has said. Remembered to fit the fuse? I remember the fault finding once when I hadn't, whoops!

 

[CrippsCorner]

Yeah fuse is in there, it's all good!

Okay so just done battery positive to car metal = 11.75v
Battery negative to car metal = 10.70v
Battery connection on amp to car metal = 1.40v

This mean it's the lead? Will be annoyed as paid £35 for the kit just 2 weeks ago :S (still cheaper than a new amp though!)

 

[James28]

Yea got to be the lead in some way or another. Fuse/Fuse holder definitely installed properly?
Is there a bare part on the end of the inline fuse you can use the voltmeter to check, whether power is flowing after the fuse?
Touch the opposite end of the fuse to the battery with the positive prong, and the negative to a part of metal, if you get me.

 

[CrippsCorner]

Well now... done as you said, 10.7v going in, 0v coming out. The fuse is perfect, the wiring is perfect. Took it all apart again to check, and yup it was a nice firm connection there no problems at all. Getting a bit frustrated! Put it back exactly how it was, measured one more time, now 10.7v coming out! The old 'off and on again' sort of tactic it seems lol.

Funniest thing was, attached the sub and now that wasn't working! After a bit of messing around (with nothing changing) I unplugged the sub and re-connected it again and it started working ffs :clown:

Happy days.

Thanks people in this thread especially James if I ever come to a meet I owe you a pint lol.

 

[James28]

Ha no worries mate, just glad you got it sorted!
To think a few posts ago you were contemplating buying another amp!

I know electrics are a nightmare. Spent many an evening trying to fathom why the blasted things aren't working myself.
Multimeter makes it soo much easier though!

 

[CrippsCorner]

Okay now everything's working I'm ready to get the amp and sub in there properly... what's the best way to secure the stuff down? I have used Velcro in the past which is okay for the amp but the sub Ihave this time is a in cylinder not sure it'll keep it in place! Is it actually recommended to drill holes into the boot floor?

 

[CrippsCorner]

Anyone? Before I start making holes, lol...

 

[TheEvilGiraffe]

I was going to do this in my car, but the sub never moves:

Bit of 10mm+ MDF to fit snug side>side .. carpet it and/or velcro on there.

Sod drilling holes !!!!

 

[CrippsCorner]

Yeah good idea mate still think it's quite hard with a cylinder shape though lol? Maybe I should change me box...

 

[CrippsCorner]

Okay it cut out again, and I checked the voltages on the fuse block same as last time, and found strange results. Input was a steady 12v, output... it would be totally random. For instance, measure inside would see 12v, then outside would be 1.5v then go back inside again and it would be down to 9.5v, just all over the place!

I went back to Halfords and told them, guy gave me a brand new fuse block and fuse to try, and it was a totally steady 12v on both input and output... so he just let me switch them over, didn't even ask to see a receipt (which I had lost, lol) so ultimately Halfords are the b****cks sometimes! Well the Southend one anyway. Hopefully this one won't break. He said they will send it back for investigation to why it's not working properly.

 

[TheEvilGiraffe]

Weird one.

Hope this does the trick...!

 

[James28]

Glad you got it sorted!
Now you know, you can do the voltmeter test on any sub/amp you ever get if its not working!

 

[CrippsCorner]

Exactly learnt something here thanks lol... and that my multimeter is s**t (display keeps flicking on and off!) need me a Fluke.

 

[James28]

Ha I just bought one I spotted on HUKD for £3.50 lol. It'll do the job.