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Help needed with panning.



  RB 182
Went down to Teesside Autodrome today to get a bit of practice panning before I go to the F1 in June. With the camera set to auto focus and in AI servo mode they still seem to be out of focus. Not really sure where I'm going wrong or is it just practice?
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  Oil Burner
Nothing horrifically wrong with these.

The top image is 1/100 which is much slower than i would expect to get consistent results. try 1/250 or 1/200 to start with.

Make sure you have 1 AF point set, as opposed to a group of them, otherwise it could be focusing on the back of the car or a tree in a back ground etc....

Once you have selected this AF point as the car comes to the corner, take the first stage of the shutter release (so the camera is auto focusing on the car) get the AF point (which should now be lit up red) on a certain point in the car (if your doing a perfectly side on pan, which is the easiest) then hold the AF point on the door handle or something. Take a burst of shots whilst trying very hard to keep this AF point constantly on the door handle. This makes sure that your panning at the right speed, even if only 1 out of 5 images is correct.

Also use shutter priority not aperture. and for stationary or head on use 1/320.

And i notice your using single shots, i would use High speed multi.

Thats my 2p's worth.
 
  1.2 Dynamique billabong
Nothing horrifically wrong with these.

The top image is 1/100 which is much slower than i would expect to get consistent results. try 1/250 or 1/200 to start with.

Make sure you have 1 AF point set, as opposed to a group of them, otherwise it could be focusing on the back of the car or a tree in a back ground etc....

Once you have selected this AF point as the car comes to the corner, take the first stage of the shutter release (so the camera is auto focusing on the car) get the AF point (which should now be lit up red) on a certain point in the car (if your doing a perfectly side on pan, which is the easiest) then hold the AF point on the door handle or something. Take a burst of shots whilst trying very hard to keep this AF point constantly on the door handle. This makes sure that your panning at the right speed, even if only 1 out of 5 images is correct.

Also use shutter priority not aperture. and for stationary or head on use 1/320.

And i notice your using single shots, i would use High speed multi.

Thats my 2p's worth.

+1
i find it much easier to get good pans if i concerntrate on just following the wing mirror or door number etc and keeping that in the right place during the capture than just trying to frame the car as a whole. having said that ive seen far worse pans than these mate, these arent bad, just a case of practising.

ive just ordered a monopod to see if that will make any difference, ive not used one before but for £15 its worth a shot to see if i can keep images utlra sharp during slower exposures like 1/60 shots. i know some people dont like them, i will report back when mine turns up
 
  RS Megane DCi 175
Nothing horrifically wrong with these.

The top image is 1/100 which is much slower than i would expect to get consistent results. try 1/250 or 1/200 to start with.

Make sure you have 1 AF point set, as opposed to a group of them, otherwise it could be focusing on the back of the car or a tree in a back ground etc....

Once you have selected this AF point as the car comes to the corner, take the first stage of the shutter release (so the camera is auto focusing on the car) get the AF point (which should now be lit up red) on a certain point in the car (if your doing a perfectly side on pan, which is the easiest) then hold the AF point on the door handle or something. Take a burst of shots whilst trying very hard to keep this AF point constantly on the door handle. This makes sure that your panning at the right speed, even if only 1 out of 5 images is correct.

Also use shutter priority not aperture. and for stationary or head on use 1/320.

And i notice your using single shots, i would use High speed multi.

Thats my 2p's worth.

Good advice tbh.
As said, up the shutter speed until you nail the technique. Good work though.
 
The only thing that will help with panning (assuming you have the camera set up for it) is PRACTICE. Thats the only way you will start to get better results at lower speeds.

I remember when I started out I couldnt go below 150th(ish). Now im pretty consistent at 1/60th, but anything below that is getting a bit hit and miss. And then the fun begins at 1/30th and below!
 
  R26
Nice pics Scott

I would have come to this but i had a stinking hangover and never got out bed until 3pm ish lol
 
  RB 182
Cheers guys for the advice. Will give it a go and hopefully will see some improvements.

And Jacko what can i say apart from you are a lazy MOFO.
 
  Oil Burner
+1
ive just ordered a monopod to see if that will make any difference, ive not used one before but for £15 its worth a shot to see if i can keep images utlra sharp during slower exposures like 1/60 shots. i know some people dont like them, i will report back when mine turns up

I have used a monopod before and hated it, its a great way of carrying the camera or for taking head on shots, but thats about it. I will probably try a monopod with swivel ball soon and a waist monopod mount, these look like a much more natural solution to me.

However in my opinion at the moment you cant beat hand held, certainly for bikes a monopod would restrict movement far too much to get a good panning technique. Particularly at the speeds we are talking about, this shot took me about 10 mins to get. (1/40th)

511867841_JoZ4S-L.jpg
 
Nick has covered everything, but the images you've posted actually look ok for the most part. Take the first one for example, the middle of the car is nice and sharp so technique seems fine, a faster shutter speed will bring more of the car into 'focus' for those types of shot where the car isn't running parallel to you.

For 3/4 panning, 1/200 is pretty much reaching the limits of keeping the whole car sharp, for side-on panning, it's pretty much as low as you can physically manage.

1/40 - still retains relatively good sharpness across the whole car when side-on...
526474103_JT4Ze-M.jpg


A similar shutter speed (1/60 in this case) with the car moving towards or away from you is likely to 'lose' at least half of the car...
505876159_THG7K-M.jpg
 
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^^ Yep thats because of the 'turning focal plane' . Its impossible to pan a car that isnt perpendicular to you, and for it to all be sharp. Different parts of the car are traveling at different relative speeds, so you cant get it all in focus :)
 


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