How do you change rear drums and shoes?

[Djw John]

Basically as the title says. Is it worth changing the bearings at the same time since the car is on 71k and has been lowered 40mm for the last 12k I cant imagine them lasting forever.

Are there a few different types of drums the smae way theres 2 different calipers and 3 different discs for the front for the mk2 ph1s. (If that makes any sense!)

Cheers
John

 

[edde]

Yep two differet tyres of rear drums both look different. Best idea is to strip them down check them and take them to Renault so you get the right one. One set will be kept in stock (I forget part numbers) the other they'll never have ordered but you can bodge the common set they have to fit (abit of filing I think).
I wouldn't bother changing them unless they're failed mine have lasted 55k on coilover on track days and the drums still have some life left (6 month maybe more) in them.

 

[Fred@BTM]

go to a local motor factor, MUCH cheaper

Renault wanted £80 just for rear shoes on mine!!!! i paid £24!!

rear drums won't need changing (i doubt) change the bearings though, about £30 per side

there are 2 sizes of drum/shoe, off the top of my head one is 184mm and the other is 205mm IIRC

3 types of shoe, Lucas Girling, Lucas TRW, Bendix

 

[davebem]

Ive recently had new shoes, drums and cylinders, shortly after one of my rear bearings went. I would get the bearings done as when you take the rear drums off its advisable to get a new hub nut, bearing kits for Renaults should come with this nut. 1.2 8v models have thicker shoes, I think all rest have smaller size, cars with ABS have 203mm(roughly) drums and non ABS have 180mm (roughly).

 

[fizzy_drink]

The rears might be either Bendix, or Girling, so it's best to get under your car, and look behind the rear wheels.

As for removing the drums... you'll need a very very big socket (in the centre of the drum).

The rest should be easy.

GSF have been the cheapest in my experience.

 

[edde]

30mm for the center nut from memory and I'm sure it should be replaced every time.

 

[fizzy_drink]

Edddddddde!!!

MSN!!!!

 

[Djw John]

Cool thanks for that. No danger of going to reno for the parts! Except the hub nuts which I already have.

I assume the bearings need pressed in hydricually (sp). Hopefully wont be too much trouble getting the right shoes, do you reckon for a chnage reno would actually know whats on the car and save me stripping them down to identify them?

Cheers
John

 

[WeeGad]

Get the drums out of EuroCarParts,Much cheaper than going to Reno for them!
Also beware and take care of your fingers when you are putting the drums back on with the new shoes!! lol

 

[donsrno1]

how do you know if the drums/shoes need replacing?

 

[Fred@BTM]

should be checked at major service every 36K IIRC

 

[donsrno1]

Will it probably be worth me having a look to check as my car is about to hit 70k - the last service I did myself and I have yet to check the rear drums. Would it pretty much just be a case of replacing the rear shoes if they are worn down and is that pretty simple?

 

[Fred@BTM]

yep you got it

 

[WeeGad]

Unless the compound on the shoes disintergrates like mine did not long after a 24k service!!
Made a nice grinding noise every where i went! lol

 

[Harry_manback]

anyone know how to take the drums off?

 

[edde]

anyone know how to take the drums off?

Take the wheel off
30mm center nut remove.
Then you have to get the drum off Use a screwdriver or wedge to get the drum off you may need some use of a hemmer to budge it it depends how long its been on and how bad the brakes are.

 

[davebem]

If the brakes are bad and binding you will have to slacken the handbrake cable adjuster. Then insert a screwdriver in the wheel bolt hole to push the operating lever on the brake shoe to retract the brakes.

Otherwise undo the 30mm, then bolt the wheel back on, then pull the wheel so it comes off with the drum.