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how easy to do this





thats what i thought. looks nicer than the amber backlighting. i presumed the dials could eb coloured bulbs but the lcd display threw me i thought the colour was dictated by the LCD
 
  172 cup,s2 rs turbo


would like to find out.the standard bulbs are white and all the dials etc are coloured orange so i wonder how they got rid of the orange.looks good though doesnt it?
 


yeah definately. would look so much better with my pioneer headunit too. most of the backlighting and the oel display is blue/green as opposed to amber. would look alot better if the instruments in the dash were blue to match
 


Yep dead easy apparently you just need to remove the pannel which is easy although the wheel gets in the way a bit so removing that would be easyer if you want to do it. However to remove the whel you may need to mess around with the airbag.

Best option is to disconnect the battery for 20minutes to ensure the airbus completly fat regardless of if your removing the wheel or not them remove the dash pannel the LED are dead easyas Ive said to change although I cannot remember what the spec of them is you could replace them with whatever LED as long as there not to powerful though.

EDD
 
  Ford F-150 5.4 V8


thats looks amazin!

IIRC there is just 1 bulb behind an orange coloured piece of plastic/perspex stuff.

prepared to be flamed tho

i seem to think this cos i changed 1 on a laguna once the 1 bulb did most of the dash!
 


Got this of a german clio site, translated it in babblefish for you all, it reads a bit wierd but you can make out what to do.

Blue TAC main header shining

This guidance is to help R-S phase 1 with the change on a blue TAC main header shining with the Clio (phase 1 should not give much deviations!) with the remaining Clio B.

Necessary material:
- 10 blue SMD LEDs with high brightness (approx. 140mcd) and Iv = 20mA
- 2 Torx screwdrivers (1x for the screws of the Amaturenbretts and 1x a size smaller for the Tacho)
- soldering irons with suitable soldering point for SMD
- filler wire
- Entloetlitze or Entloetpumpe
- fork
- pencil

Development of the cover of the Amaturenbretts:
When first must the cover of the steering wheel is removed, in addition the 3 Torx screws on the lower surface of the steering wheel cover to solve. Afterwards it applies to loosen 7 further Torx screws to be removed per one laterally (Tuere open completely, then one can see them), three screws in the louvers with the windshield and last is still 2 screws direct under the Tacho, which became visible when removing the steering wheel cover. So that the cover removed, still the A-columns can weden lining must be removed (are only attached). Now the whole Amaturenbrettabdeckung can be pulled out toward interior.

Development Tacho:
After the cover of the Amaturenbretts far away is visible will the Tachomodul and can through solve from 4 Torx screws and plug off the two wires to be removed. At the wires it has two levers, with which the strands are loosened from the Tachomodul.

Change Tachomodul:
Now where the module is developed, this must be also still divided. First remove, is only attached the cover plate. Afterwards the Torx screws (small size) on the back of the module loosen, so that the cover on the back can be removed. Now still remove, is likewise only attached the cover on the front. So that one to electronics ran comes must also the pointers be removed. Note: Before absolutely the 0-Stellungen of the pointers marks. The pointers can be taken off with the help of the fork, but proceeded carefully, not pulled too strongly! If all pointers are distant, also the Tachoscheibe can be separated from electronics. Now it applies to exchange the LEDs. Ever two LEDs with the Tacho and tachometer, per one with the tank announcement and with the coolant temperature announcement and four LEDs for the background lighting of the on board computer. When the old LEDs removes first carefully (entloeten!), afterwards the new solder (note: polarity!).

The original LEDs (orange) needs a tension of 2.2V, the blue however approx. 3.5-3.8V, therefore possibly also still the Vorwiederstaende must be adapted. With the lighting of the measuring instruments (Tacho, number of revolutions, tank and water temp.) I have 0 ohms of reconditions used, since the tension is anyway too deep, not to adapt during the background lighting 47 ohms depending upon leuchtstaerke of the LEDs ists however necessarily the pre-resistors.
 

Tom

ClioSport Club Member
  i3


its really easy

you need a hot air station.

which i have at work.
 
  Mk2 172 (Silver)


im liking that alot too!! :D

tell you what si.....have a go on yours then you can do mine!! :oops:
 
  172 cup,s2 rs turbo


how do you remove the orange filter from the instrument panel though? thought the original leds/bulbs were white and it was the plastic that was orange.
 


Quote: Originally posted by pootle172 on 02 March 2004


im liking that alot too!! :D

tell you what si.....have a go on yours then you can do mine!! :oops:





lol, er yeah but im not doing it at a show like every other time ive done something on your car, hehe ;)
 
  172 cup,s2 rs turbo


if the panels use orange leds and the cover is white then it would just be a case of fitting blue leds.would like to try it but i dont fancy taking my instrument panel apart as they are exspensive.if i find a second hand panel i might give it a go.
 


Good ol Fred ! Krazy enough to try anything !

That does look gorgeous tho I have to say ! Will the temp/CD/time display change to blue too ?????
 


Quote: Originally posted by Daipac on 03 March 2004


Good ol Fred ! Krazy enough to try anything !

That does look gorgeous tho I have to say ! Will the temp/CD/time display change to blue too ?????
Only if you mod it to do that !! but anything is possible !!
 

Has

  RS 182 - Black Gold


Sod it !!!

Too rigth Fred, lets give it a go!

Im takign mine apart now ;)



Has
 


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