Hello to all. One of by rear shocks blew its seal the other day on my 2002 FF Clio 172 after only covering 33K!!
After reading the threads I couldnt find any fitting guides so thought I'd post my own after I had fixed mine myself.
The standard shocks cost me £53 each including VAT and I would reccommend that both sides be changed together if one does go. The problem is easy to spot as if a seal goes you will see hydraulic fluid running down shaft of the shocker if you look underneath, the car may droop on that side and you may get a knocking from the affected side when going over bumps whhich will worsen as fluid empties and you lose damping.
To do this job you will only need your standard car jack, a 16mm spanner or deep socket, 18mm socket, some grease, an hour and a mug of tea.
1/ Work on one side at a time, firstly removing top strut rubber cone ( found in boot ) and loosen off 16mm nut with spanner or deep socket, but do not remove completely to just keep it in place.
2/ Place car jack under relevent jacking point on the side youre doing for support but no need to raise at this time.
3/ Reach under car from rear and remove 18mm bolts holding bottom of shocker onto swing arm.
4/ Raise car up a few inches and completely remove 16mm top strut nut in boot ( see 1 ) and damper will fall away from vehicle.
5/ Note that at this point I smeared a little white grease onto the rubber areas which contact with top strut when tightened into place just to stop any possible squeaking and reduce wear on them.
6/ I fitted new damper by firstly feeding shocker up into wheelarch and into place and at this point screw the 18mm bottom bolt a couple of turns in by hand just to stop the thing from falling out.
7/ I then tightened up the 16mm top nut using a spanner and small adjustable to hold onto the top spline to give it a final nip.
8/ You can then fully tighten up the bottom 18mm bolt, remove jack, give it a final nip up from underneath and hey presto!
PLEASE NOTE I chose to put a little copper grease on the 18mm bolt and be very careful when refitting this as they can thread easily if you are not careful.
I would always advise that an axle stand is utilsed when working under the car.
TOP TIP - utilise the jack to raise or lower car until 18mm bolt is alligned with its thread.
Although I am no mechanic this was a very very simple job and Ive listed how I done the job in detail to assist anyone I can.
After reading the threads I couldnt find any fitting guides so thought I'd post my own after I had fixed mine myself.
The standard shocks cost me £53 each including VAT and I would reccommend that both sides be changed together if one does go. The problem is easy to spot as if a seal goes you will see hydraulic fluid running down shaft of the shocker if you look underneath, the car may droop on that side and you may get a knocking from the affected side when going over bumps whhich will worsen as fluid empties and you lose damping.
To do this job you will only need your standard car jack, a 16mm spanner or deep socket, 18mm socket, some grease, an hour and a mug of tea.
1/ Work on one side at a time, firstly removing top strut rubber cone ( found in boot ) and loosen off 16mm nut with spanner or deep socket, but do not remove completely to just keep it in place.
2/ Place car jack under relevent jacking point on the side youre doing for support but no need to raise at this time.
3/ Reach under car from rear and remove 18mm bolts holding bottom of shocker onto swing arm.
4/ Raise car up a few inches and completely remove 16mm top strut nut in boot ( see 1 ) and damper will fall away from vehicle.
5/ Note that at this point I smeared a little white grease onto the rubber areas which contact with top strut when tightened into place just to stop any possible squeaking and reduce wear on them.
6/ I fitted new damper by firstly feeding shocker up into wheelarch and into place and at this point screw the 18mm bottom bolt a couple of turns in by hand just to stop the thing from falling out.
7/ I then tightened up the 16mm top nut using a spanner and small adjustable to hold onto the top spline to give it a final nip.
8/ You can then fully tighten up the bottom 18mm bolt, remove jack, give it a final nip up from underneath and hey presto!
PLEASE NOTE I chose to put a little copper grease on the 18mm bolt and be very careful when refitting this as they can thread easily if you are not careful.
I would always advise that an axle stand is utilsed when working under the car.
TOP TIP - utilise the jack to raise or lower car until 18mm bolt is alligned with its thread.
Although I am no mechanic this was a very very simple job and Ive listed how I done the job in detail to assist anyone I can.
nice one mate.
