Immobiliser fault

[obcuz]

hi
New user and new owner here - Clio Sport 185 (2004)

I know from research that there have been issues with the immobilser, and sorry if I am covering old ground but have not seen a definitive answer to my problem.

Fault
Central locking and alarms activate/deactivate as usual.
In activate e.g. locked, immobiliser light is blinking as normal.

When ignition is turned on, immobilser light is on - not blinking - and I think this should go off after about 3 seconds - it doesn't - it stays on plus continual buzzer sound from roof pod.
Needless to say that when light is on car will not start.

Can turn engine over immediately (but not firing) when turning key (no wait) and stops after 3 sec.
Wait over 3 seconds, and engine will not even turn over - starter deactivated, so I think it is not starter motor problem etc.

To me, it looks like a problem between the key and immobiliser codes not matching, and it is most likely that the code in the actual immobilser requires resetting to match the key, rather than a key code fault.

So key(sic) question is how to reset/restore the code in the immobilser - hey I am not talking about keys as I know they need dealer setting.

Thanks for your time and hopefully useful information.

 

[Budgie]

If you don't manage to sort it, I have a 182 ECU, UCH, key, decoder ring, passenger door lock, boot lock and petrol cap for sale. Everything you need to sort it..

 

[Jonny1*2]

where are you mate? Could take a look for you. Oh and keys don't need doing by a dealer

 

[obcuz]

Thanks for offer Johnny but am in West Mids., have made no further progress despite various attempts at resetting.

I am having someone take a look next week with diags. maybe that weill show up something...

Thanks also to budgie for offer, don't fancy doing a rebuild at this stage - but if all else fails....

If anyone else has any further suggestions or pointers, it would be good.

 

[mr.pink87]

did you try the second key? buzzing from the roof is the aircon-sensor!

 

[clio-lord]

had this with the trophy the othere day. i got in the car and locked it all doors and bonnet. key in and turn to 2nd click. pressed unlock and light when off. think its to do with low charge in the battery

 

[obcuz]

Hey Mr Pink
Second key is snapped but think the fob is working (fob light shows)
Tried inserting good key and getting second fob in close - no change.

Mr Lord, I had a big energy unit jump on the battery this afternoon with plenty of current/voltage, but no change.

Mr Pink, so why the buzzing from the roof pod? when would this normally stop buzzing? - is it usual to have it buzzng whilst ignition on and engine not running, buzzing is continual until key is turned off!

 

[mr.pink87]

there is a fan sitting on the sensor which gets "play" with time and starts to buzz. the fan is activated when the ignition is turned on. you could try to exchange the actual key part from your keys to have the second fob in perfect position for the receiver. whats your battery voltage when starting the engine?

 

[sophiesdad]

check the engine bay relays , and check all the engine earths , also swap the key blade over in the remotes , also try disconnecting battery for 10 mins , all may help , or may not , but if you check 1 at a time may give a pointer or may sort it.

 

[obcuz]

I'm surprised there is no one who knows how to set the immobiliser codes manually on this model!?

 

[Jonny1*2]

I'm surprised there is no one who knows how to set the immobiliser codes manually on this model!?

You can with clip.

 

[obcuz]

hi Johnny

and what is a 'clip'?

 

[Jonny1*2]

Renault diagnostic/programming interface.

 

[MicKPM]

I don't think its the Imob at fault and more like the main control relay. Can you hear the fuel pump prime for 3secs when you turn the key?

 

[obcuz]

Diags.+ 'the man' are suggesting the pick-up ring around the ign. switch.
We will see.....
P.S.
Is there a 182 manual in pdf available to download anywhere (free of course!)

 

[Jonny1*2]

Diags.+ 'the man' are suggesting the pick-up ring around the ign. switch.
We will see.....
P.S.
Is there a 182 manual in pdf available to download anywhere (free of course!)

It would be pick up ring if the light was flashing mate. Doubt it's that.

Pm me your email and I'll send you the PDF when I get in

 

[finch wxm]

i think my problems are similar to this, did you sort it out ?

 

[obcuz]

hi Mr Finch et.al.

Replaced the transponder ring near ignition switch and still no go.

I am not in a position to make any more tests at the moment, but will advise if/when it is working in the future and what it was - probably we will be driving hydro-rocket powered 'moteurs' by then!?

 

[finch wxm]

i reckon you need to buy the immobilser bypass kit which plugs into the diagnostic port, think they are £84> it does seem like an immobilser issue from what i hae read

 

[Sean6545]

The immobiliser bypass wont work on a phase 2.

This happends quite commonly when the battery has been left to go flat.

Try turning ignition on for a minute, then off, lock the doors, unlock the doors, open then close the drivers door and try to start it then.

 

[obcuz]

Just an update,

I think all things mentioned have now been tried and still no result and no change to the situation described in the initial post
Today, swapped keys and blades to try and get some 'pointer' results from diags. and it does seem as though key/immob. is functioning.

Car needs now to go 'in' for a more thorough checkover.

I can not belive that Renault can make a car imob. system with no override function available to the keyholder, and that not even a reliable system. I don't get this much security at the bank, and the end result can only be - you will more likely get mugged and robbed of your keys and car?!! Yeah, you guessed, - getting a bit pi**ed

 

[obcuz]

Whoever may be interested in the outcome of my initial post may wish to read on...

Have had the car back a few days and now is running fine.

The problem was one of the two feed voltages to the ECU was too low - not sure which pin, but diags showed it up, could well be a bad joint in the loom somewhere.

Quick and inexpensive cure was to run a fused +12v wire to the ECU terminal, everything now appears to function correctly.
Credit to the 'local' car repair garage and 'expert' diags man who fixed this at very little cost.

No one has come back to me on my previous post in defence of the Renault philosophy of not allowing an overide code for the immobiliser to be available to the owner on the Clio 182.

They should either make these systems 100% RELIABLE. or don't put 'em in.

 

[a1dan0204]

where are you mate? Could take a look for you. Oh and keys don't need doing by a dealer

If they dont need doing by a dealer would you be able to point me in the right direction of someone that can?

Thanks mate

 

[a1dan0204]

Whoever may be interested in the outcome of my initial post may wish to read on...

Have had the car back a few days and now is running fine.

The problem was one of the two feed voltages to the ECU was too low - not sure which pin, but diags showed it up, could well be a bad joint in the loom somewhere.

Quick and inexpensive cure was to run a fused +12v wire to the ECU terminal, everything now appears to function correctly.
Credit to the 'local' car repair garage and 'expert' diags man who fixed this at very little cost.

No one has come back to me on my previous post in defence of the Renault philosophy of not allowing an overide code for the immobiliser to be available to the owner on the Clio 182.

They should either make these systems 100% RELIABLE. or don't put 'em in.

Having the same problem atm mate, who did you get to fix it and where you from?

Thanks aidan

 

[jamesb35]

Hi all, got a similar problem to the OP.

Posted this on another Clio forum, but this one seems more populated, so thought I'd try my luck here as well.

I've got a 2001 (51 plate) Mk2 Dynamique. 1.2L. When I turn the key, the red immobiliser light flashes rapidly and this (obviously) stops the car from firing. Most of the time, after taking the key out and trying again a few times, the light stops blinking and just stays solidly lit, but the car still won't start.

Most of the time I can get it going eventually, but it's a real pain because sometimes it fires after a couple of attempts, and sometimes I am there for 20 minutes trying to start it (most of which times I eventually just give in.) Which obviously isn't ideal if I'm in a rush to get somewhere, and of course it's a nightmare in the petrol station when you're holding up the queue after filling up and finding that the car won't start!!

I got someone who I know (a mechanic) to have a look inside the key and he said that the circuit board was fine. I've tried replacing the key battery with a new one - no success with that. I also read somewhere that the key fobs can build up static and to try taking it off a key ring with other keys - tried this and it seemed to work for a while (maybe coincidence) before the problem returned. I've also inspected all the fuses and they are all fine. Got my dad to disconnect and then re-connect the battery - no joy there. Also cleaned up those black and brown relays under a cover under the bonnet (to the right of the battery.) None of these suggested solutions have given me any joy. Also tried that bypass software you can download, but it doesn't seem to have the codes for facelift version Mk2's.

So basically, I've tried a hell of a lot of things to try and avoid taking it to a dealer who will undoubtedly charge an arm and a leg to diagnose and sort the problem. So, if anybody has any diagnosis/possible solutions I could try, that would be appreciated. As you might be able to tell by my post, I'm no mechanical expert so if anyone on here has any ideas, that would be great.

Oh, also, for what it's worth, I only have 1 key, so can't try using a spare.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

 

[MicKPM]

Diagnostics required to say for sure but it sounds like either a key pickup around the ignition barrel or the key itself is at fault and needs replacing.

 

[jamesb35]

After weeks of trying to fix it myself, decided to bite the bullet. Took it to a local auto electrics place (Renault specialist) and had them diagnose it on their computer. They got in touch to say that my key fob was basically knackered and that was probably causing the immobiliser problem.

Anyway, £150 later and they replaced my key fob and re-programmed it or whatever. Seems to have solved the problem (fingers crossed) because it has been fine so far since I got the new key.

Expensive job, but hopefully it'll be worth it and hopefully the car wont intermittently refuse to start any more.

 

[loggyboy]

Whoever may be interested in the outcome of my initial post may wish to read on...

Have had the car back a few days and now is running fine.

The problem was one of the two feed voltages to the ECU was too low - not sure which pin, but diags showed it up, could well be a bad joint in the loom somewhere.

Quick and inexpensive cure was to run a fused +12v wire to the ECU terminal, everything now appears to function correctly.
Credit to the 'local' car repair garage and 'expert' diags man who fixed this at very little cost.

No one has come back to me on my previous post in defence of the Renault philosophy of not allowing an overide code for the immobiliser to be available to the owner on the Clio 182.

They should either make these systems 100% RELIABLE. or don't put 'em in.

Yoru fault seems the same as the one I have now. Can you add some detail as to where this new feed is required?

 

[benn j]

Hold the button in on the key fob then turn the key straight to cranking I had a similar problem turns out the insides of the key was cracked so couldnt read code but by pressing button in it bends the insides enough to fill cracks
Hope this helps mate
Post results

 

[loggyboy]

Sadly ive tried all the simple suggestions: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?580136-Starting-Fault.

 

[ward84]

I've had the same problems with my clio sport, I found this article that provides immobiliser overide codes that will solve any faults on any renault model http://renaulthelp.110mb.com/ImmBypass.html#CarType :approve:

 

[fixedgear]

The immobiliser bypass wont work on a phase 2.

This happends quite commonly when the battery has been left to go flat.

Try turning ignition on for a minute, then off, lock the doors, unlock the doors, open then close the drivers door and try to start it then.

This worked for me. Many thanks