Is components necessary?

[Cabriochris]

I want to stick some midranges in the doors but will this still sound good without changing the tweeters?

Im just not the type of person who will be wanting to remove the dash as i know i wont have a clue what i am doing and i know it will go wrong so is it really necessary to change them or can i leave them?

How much would a audio shop normally charge to replace them would you say?

Cheers for your help.

 

[theduck]

you can leave them, but it would be a compromise and wont sound as good.

 

[Cabriochris]

http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/3978.html

What about if you had the tweeters build in the speakers like these rainbows? Would this sound better and would they fit?

 

[Thamar]

Why mount 60w RMS speakers if the stock stereo can't handle that much?

You won't get much gain, and if you don't want to put in a decent radio, small amp and components you're better of leaving it stock OR put in some cheaper pioneer/sony speakers.

 

[theduck]

Thamar, the stock stereo could quite hapily drive the rainbows. Go away and learn the physics behind how amplifiers work with speakers before commenting.

Carbiochris. If you dont want to take the dash out then yes something like those is a better setup then just fitting mid-range units.

 

[Thamar]

It will work, but you will pay a hell of a lot and won't even get near the potential you payed for...

The stock radio is rated at 4x15W or 4x40W if you took the uprated one. Probably he's talking about the normal one, so why take speakers that can handle 4 times the amound of what the radio can deliver!

It's like a fat bloke walking around on €250 nikes or driving a €2.000 mountainbike, pure waste of money... Or a 90 year old in a Clio V6 to drive around the church.

 

[theduck]

Again, you have no understanding of how these things work. Wattage is the most pointless figure in the world and does not come into anything other than 'I'm a chav and I have 20 ba-zillion watts coz I added up the max music power of all my pound shop amps that i dropped in my boot and called an install' bragging rights.

Please know what you are talking about before commenting.

 

[Cabriochris]

Sorry i should of explained, i have got a pioneer sterio and a 12 inch sub with alpine 600watt amp too. Just want more power mid range.

 

[theduck]

the rainbows will do you just nice mate

 

[marky-f1]

they rainbows look ace

 

[Dink]

Again, you have no understanding of how these things work. Wattage is the most pointless figure in the world and does not come into anything other than 'I'm a chav and I have 20 ba-zillion watts coz I added up the max music power of all my pound shop amps that i dropped in my boot and called an install' bragging rights.

Please know what you are talking about before commenting.

yet also the most crutial

 

[theduck]

Again, you have no understanding of how these things work. Wattage is the most pointless figure in the world and does not come into anything other than 'I'm a chav and I have 20 ba-zillion watts coz I added up the max music power of all my pound shop amps that i dropped in my boot and called an install' bragging rights.

Please know what you are talking about before commenting.

yet also the most crutial

i expected better of you dink

Sensitivity is what is what its all about.

A very relevant number for the achievable sound level is the speaker sensitivity. This is given in "dB (1W/1m)" which means sound pressure level in one meter with a 1Watt source. dB is a logarithmic scale, which confuses matters, but basically 3dB more means double as loud, 6dB four times, 10dB ten times as loud. As a consequence, a 200W RMS speaker with 85dB sensitivity is inferior to a 50W RMS/95dB speaker.
Let's see:
Speaker #1: 1 W/85dB means 10W/95dB, 100W/105dB and finally 200W/108dB
Speaker #2: 1W/95dB means 10W 105db, 50W/112dB

So with a 50W amp the more sensitive speakers are still louder than
the less sensitive with a 200W amp. With the same amp (50W) the
difference would be a factor of ten!

So if you want to go really loud, you better start with sensitive speakers (professional PA gear ususally is better than 100dB/Wm)

 

[Dink]

yeah sensitive speakers with play louder with the same power but will normally take less power

+ in car speakers will all normally fall between 89 and 95dB/w

 

[theduck]

yes but that same sentiment also means that they will take less power to achieve normal sound levels.

 

[kpowell911]

whats your budget for components?

What the duckeatspork is saying is strictly true, But if it was me, I wouldnt waste my money upgrading stock speakers unless I was amping.

There will be an improvement, But not one big enough to jusity the price you are paying imo.

 

[Tom]

The placing of the std tweeters is crap anyway.

If it was me id buy components and re fit the tweeters where they should go.
(A-Pillar)

 

[kpowell911]

The placing of the std tweeters is crap anyway.

If it was me id buy components and re fit the tweeters where they should go.
(A-Pillar)

Give that man a biscuit

 

[theduck]

he is amping...

 

[Cabriochris]

Umm....Do you have to make a fixing or buy one if you were to put them on the A pillar or do they just sit there?

I wonder if you could remove the old tweeter from the top of the dash and just use the original wires to run new tweeters on the A Pillar?

 

[Tigger]

I can't comment on all the techno jibberish about rms & wattage etc. as I'm not all clued up with it just yet, I'm learning though

Components and an amp are generally the favourite way of improving any standard setup. Tha't how I started with my last car - HU, components amp & sub - loved it, then I was hungry for higher SQ so sold up & upgraded everything.