mobil new life 0w40

[C&F]

i bought some oil from halfrauds and it said to get mobil new life 0w40, has anyone tryed it?

 

[Dan519]

you should be using 5w40 really

 

[Fred@BTM]

why? nothing wrong with 0W40, it actually offers better cold protection than a 5W40

 

[Dan519]

hence the tone of the post that 5w40 is the "correct" grade. I didn't say panic and change it did I?

a 0w in going to be similar in winter to what a 5w is in summer

 

[Fred@BTM]

you advised he should of used a 5W40 suggesting he was wrong to be using a 0W40 when infact its technically better


you need to calm down, you've been a right stroppy chops recently!

 

[C&F]

haha, cool thanks. so 0w in winter 5w in summer

 

[Laine_16v]

You could argue the 0w-40 is the oil of choice as it offers best cold protection. But you wouldnt put it in an F7R, it would burn to much when the engines cold, understandable the tolerances in an F4 are better, but the same principle could apply between using 0w40 and 5w40 in that engine, what im saying is that lower viscosity isnt always best?

 

[Ex-User (19928)]

As I understood it's just the viscosity whilst at a lower temperature. 0w40 works better at colder temperatures than 5w40 does.

That said I'm pretty Renault put 10w40 in the Clios normally, and in summer you could easily get away with 15w40. Only downside to 0w40 is higher price.

 

[Chip-mk1]

Jeff, its not quite as simple as "a lower number is better" though TBH

If you go too thin on oil then when starting it can get past the rings etc which isnt great.

Generally on high mileage engines when tolerances start to increase from what they were new I like to use at least the thickness it was from new, if not go to the next grade thicker rather than thinner.

Its a f**king nightmare trying to judge if an oil is working well or not though as you'd need to test it over such a big mileage to know and its just not practical to do those sort of tests unless you are a car manufacturer. So I try to avoid giving advice on the subject as even though I know what oils I use and that they seem to work for me, its not scientific or conclusive enough to want to preach to others.

One thing that is massively important (stating the obvious here but its surprising how many people ignore it) is to change your oil very reguarly as it breaks down over time, I'd sooner have new oil of the wrong grade than old oil of the right grade.
If you are doing trackday driving in your car, the oil should be changed much more often than in normal use as the increased cylidner pressures result in more hot gasses getting into the crank case and breaking the oil down, not to mention extra carbon deposits etc.

 

[Rhys Beal]

All I use is Mobil 1 0w40 long life. Only because I got it for £26 per 5 litres :approve:

 

[Ex-User (19928)]

Jeff, its not quite as simple as "a lower number is better" though TBH

If you go too thin on oil then when starting it can get past the rings etc which isnt great.

Generally on high mileage engines when tolerances start to increase from what they were new I like to use at least the thickness it was from new, if not go to the next grade thicker rather than thinner.

Its a f**king nightmare trying to judge if an oil is working well or not though as you'd need to test it over such a big mileage to know and its just not practical to do those sort of tests unless you are a car manufacturer. So I try to avoid giving advice on the subject as even though I know what oils I use and that they seem to work for me, its not scientific or conclusive enough to want to preach to others.

One thing that is massively important (stating the obvious here but its surprising how many people ignore it) is to change your oil very reguarly as it breaks down over time, I'd sooner have new oil of the wrong grade than old oil of the right grade.
If you are doing trackday driving in your car, the oil should be changed much more often than in normal use as the increased cylidner pressures result in more hot gasses getting into the crank case and breaking the oil down, not to mention extra carbon deposits etc.

Is it a case of being thinner, or is it that it offers the same lubrication at lower temperatures? Serious question btw.

 

[Yanoo]

Direct comparison of 4 oils' kinematic viscosity:
Red: Mobil-1 0w-40
Green: ELF Evolution SXR 5w-40
Yellow: ELF Competition ST 10w-40
Blue: Castrol Edge Sport 10w-60

Higher viscosity means lower flow rate and opposite, lower viscosity represents higher flow rate:

At lower temperature (right upper chart) they have notably different viscosity but at high temp (at 100 deg - right lower chart), the flow rate of 0w-40, 5w-40 and 10w-40 oils is close to one another. 10w-60 has an outstanding viscosity at high temps, it may be advantage on track if you have no oil cooler but it's disadvantage if you have or you use your vehicle as a daily runner.

 

[Chip-mk1]

Well explains

10w60 by the way is commonly used in endurance race cars.

It's not just that it can take more temps, it can also handle more petrol dilution, important when it's not changed often enough.

With a 0w40 it's vice versa so its very important for that reason that it's changed regularly.

 

[Magic_Johnson]

So whats everyones views on 0W40?

I bought some 0W40 Castrol Edge (as the 5w40 edge was recommended for turbo diesels) from halfords @ 20% off. Only downside was i had to buy 2 tubs as they come in 4L...

Will i be ok using the 0W40??

SJ

 

[Fred@BTM]

yes fine

 

[Chip-mk1]

Unless your engine has a tired set of rings in which case you might get a bit of oil coming past the rings, especially when cold.

So if it starts to smoke, you know you have gone too thin, lol