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NOS (again)





Hi, I have searched the forum for NOS discussions and found a lot of interesting details on the subject. I still have one question: What starterkits did you use, Im on my way to order the 4cyl one nozzle starter kit from Nitrous Express US. Does anyone have any experience of fitting kits from NE?

/Jono

My car? Clio RS 172!
 


All N20 kits are basically the same.

I can supply a full kit from teh UK (if you are in teh UK) for 500 quid....this inclueds an 11lb cylinder.

It make by the guy who supplies kit to the US N20 suppliers!!!

The pulsoids are better than the US spec NOS ones as they are alloy and not steel, cool better and have a longer service life...which i doubt youll or anybody will exceed.

It a basic kit and can be upgraded to 100bhp with simple jet changes.

Fitting is a simple task and i will help by providing pictures and step by step manual like my kit.

Ben

I have been running my kit with 2 9lb bottles gicing me 18lbs (which i usually fill to about 20....oooer) and can run for about 20-30 mins constant use on a 45bhp jet.

Very safe, no problems..and its running on a 40 yr old engine!!!
 


Cool!

thats what Nick and Me have been sayin for ages......

N20 is SAFE, IF you set it up correctly.....it will not fail, unless there is something wrong with your motor.
 


Quote: Originally posted by BenR on 26 September 2002


All N20 kits are basically the same.

I can supply a full kit from teh UK (if you are in teh UK) for 500 quid....this inclueds an 11lb cylinder.

It make by the guy who supplies kit to the US N20 suppliers!!!

The pulsoids are better than the US spec NOS ones as they are alloy and not steel, cool better and have a longer service life...which i doubt youll or anybody will exceed.

It a basic kit and can be upgraded to 100bhp with simple jet changes.

Fitting is a simple task and i will help by providing pictures and step by step manual like my kit.

Ben

I have been running my kit with 2 9lb bottles gicing me 18lbs (which i usually fill to about 20....oooer) and can run for about 20-30 mins constant use on a 45bhp jet.

Very safe, no problems..and its running on a 40 yr old engine!!!





Very interesting!

I live in Sweden, is that a problem? if it isnt please email me prices in Euro (mailto:jono@bildesign.se">jono@bildesign.se). Freight is no problem, just use UPS or DPD and Ill get it to my door!

/Jono
 


sweden is not a problem......but you WILL need a bottle heater due to your extreme cold..unless you decide NOT to run in the winter.....

a heater will cost a bit more, not sure how much, i will get prices in euro and for the heater.

Ben
 


Quote: Originally posted by BenR on 27 September 2002


sweden is not a problem......but you WILL need a bottle heater due to your extreme cold..unless you decide NOT to run in the winter.....

a heater will cost a bit more, not sure how much, i will get prices in euro and for the heater.

Ben





Ever been here? Its a very chilly morning -2 C today! Ill problably wont fit it until spring. NOS and slippy winterroads are not a good combo :)
 


wow! that cold!

im sitting here in t-shirt and shorts in 37 deg C heat!!!

AIYA!

anyway, how many euros/pound?....5?
 


Hi again!

Euros/pound, cant find the rates on swedish sites. Please check out your financial papers homepages. You will probably find the exchange rates there.

BTW 37 deg C, are you cracy?! Where the hell do you live, africa?
 


im in Hong kOng at the moment!! LOL

and yes its HOT!

so, thats about 750 euros then...i think.

CHeers MC
 


Ben when r u back to start uni again? im starting next moday, just got my timjetable today, is a bit of a b*****d, plus we have to pay for parking now:cry:

have you got any night racing story to tell?;)
 


WHAT!!??
you at UWE too?

racing....um..yeah!!!....a tad on the illegal side tho!

oh!!! there was a major bustup on street racing last weekend! bout 20 people got caught along with teh $200,000 jackpot!
 
  BMW 320d Sport


Bottle heater is about $130-140 in the US, same kind of price in UK when imported - except in £££ instead of $$$! About 200 Euros basically. Strangely enough, Im *not* going to be paying that much for a bit of heated rubber with a 28 degree thermostat and a couple of velcro straps!

Plan A was gonna be a heated seat element, but I cant get hold of one anywhere, so Im onto plan B - the wing mirror heating element off of an Iveco van, which should supply the heat I need.

Ben R- maybe you can give me some advice from your boundless pool of engine building wisdom...in my quest for 13 second times Im gonna convert my single injector setup to direct port very soon, maybe before York next weekend. The only thing is, what do you think about the best position for the injectors? Right up close to the ports or further along the intake runners, say up to 4 inches away. Common sense (to me!) seems to be to place them a little way along the runners with the nitrous nozzle upstream slightly of the fuel nozzle, to allow the mixture to atomise properly before it enters the head. If the injectors were right up close to the ports (next to the normal fuel injectors) then surely the mix would be a bit dodgy and the nitrous wouldnt have the opportunity to break down as easily?
 


Nick what modifications have you got to make then from the NOS feed to go direct port? Is it just a case of branching of from the main NOS feed into 4 seperate branches then tapping into the inlet manifold 4 times?

Also have you checked to see if the Nozzle kit is available. I think this kit replaces your standard injectors with new ones that take the nos as well. This must be the best approach to max. the nos benefit !

What sort of BHP again are you looking at mate?
 


lol, am at Manchester met uni, in HK the coppers always set up road block to catch all the racers with illegal mods. remember when i went back to HK about 98, saw lots of skylines, evo, pizzas parked up, ready to terror the terra firma

also the carbon bonnet is pretty cheap in HK, why dont you make a deal and import some back?:)
 


Nick, are you using a X-fire injector? If not you should be, they give almost perfect fuel/N2O mix and atomisation.

IIRC Trev. (The WIzard of NOS) says the further down the inlet runners the better as it gives it more chances to mix with the air. The NOS Nozzle system looks good, but would involve modyfing the whole feul rail and Im not sure if it would really give any noticeable improvements.
 
  BMW 320d Sport


Simon - basically the original injector is taken out and the hole plugged. The solenoids stay put but the two fuel/nitrous lines are lengthened to run to an 8-way distribution block which has 4 fuel and 4 nitrous outputs. Each pair of of these goes down to a combined injector which is in each of the 4 intake runners.

SimonNOS - Im running whatever injector my Ecoblaster kit came with. Im gonna get three more of those and hook it up to each runner. Probably about 4 inches from the ports - better mixture and a lot easier to plumb in cos it wont foul the injector rail.
 


Um, Nick........so you still using a wet ssytem yes.

OK, i wuold put them opposit the port entries on the inlet manifold.....if you can imagine what im saying. the inlet manifold on the 16V is like a rippled thing......right....

so, place it aiming at the inlet port opening from the other side of the manifold. ANd you would need a pruge system as all those line will contain a huge amount of vapour.

And seperate pipeing for fuel and N20 would bebetter wouldnt you think. The mixed at the point of injection witha joint injector tapped in.
 


The injectors the Wizards of NOS sell now are supposed to be the best you can get, they spray the feul out of one hole in line with the airflow, the N2O is then sprayed in crossed jets so that it cross the fuel jet, so giving a very good mix and good atoisation and distribution. Also you should use the Wizard of NOSs distribution block, it was independently tested at Shefield Uni and shown to give near perfert distribution to each injector.

BenR - why would you need a purge, all the lines are downstream of the solenoids and so open to the atmosphere.
 


cause any remaining N20 in them would vapourise in the lines and when it comes to useing it youll have a period where am odd/air/fuel ratio is injected....and sice the line will be quite long..itll be afair amount of vapour.

I know trev doesn recommend it....BUT, its some thign that can help with 1/4 times.

Also, if you want anything....just email me as i talk to Trev often since our little scuffle and now he gives me great deals and even allows me to sell the kits for him abroad!
 


What I mean it how do you purge the lines between to solenods, distribution block and injectors as one end is open?
 


oh.....we were kinda commenting on the same thing then....LOL

the lines to the solenoid would all be runnign inside the car i assume in your setup. And under the carpet along the floor.....as we all know get pretty damn hot!!!

Hes using it for 1/4 miling aswell.....so, might as well....
 


I understand the principle of purging is to get rid of gaseous N2O in the feed line, but I thought point of using microbore nylon pipe was that this wasnt an issue, plus puging is very wasteful of N2O.
 


i know its wasteful..........but like of 12ml!!!

even with the microbore lines.....any heat will cause the liquid to change state.....laws of physics......the steel line to exagerate the problem but hey.....its always gonna be there.....i feel a slight hesitation for about 1/2 sec before the N20 lines are clear.
 


So if you had a purge valve fitted youd only need to give it a 1/2 sec blast to clear the lines. Is it worth the cost of another solenoid though?
 


thats another point altogether.....im not argueing with you....

point is, if your using it for 1/4 miling....then 1/2 off amx power....do you think its worth it.

i only use it on the road......so, i cant justify the price increase.

ill change it from "you would" to "you might want" a pruge system.....is that ok?
 
  BMW 320d Sport


well I been thinking of a purge valve and not just cos it looks cool to have a white vapour jet blowing over your windscreen! I would say that it would definitely make a difference, perhaps 1/4 second in a car that could launch off the line with no wheelspin. Saying that though, I dont put the gas in until just before the 60ft mark anyway so that extra shot of good nitrous would probably be worth doing. The first shot of it is always rough until the liquid starts feeding through.

But wouldnt the purge valve only empty the lines up to the solenoids? The plumbing from the solenoids to the distributor block would still be full of vapour?
 


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