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PC steering wheels?



I enjoy playing driving games like Project cars 2, Assetto Corsa, Forza Horizons 3&4 and GRID 2 but I know I’d get a lot more out of them with a steering wheel rather than the Xbox controller.

Which one would you recommend for a PC? Is Logitech the way forward?

Cheers
 
  406 V6, Race Buggy
Forza Horizon 4 and the Logitech don't play well together - been fighting issues since it came out.
It's a pretty solid wheel for the money though, otherwise, has a little bit of cogging even with the helical gears, but not a huge amount.
 

Rojer

ClioSport Club Member
Depends how much you want to spend, Logitech G27/29 are good. Also have things from Fanatec, it depends on the type of wheel you want, if it's belt driven, direct drive and how much you want to spend.
 
I would say a budget of around £300 and would like pedals too.

What are the pros and cons of belt driven, direct drive etc? Does the belt last long or degrade in a short space of time?
 
@Cup172rich I've got a Logitech G29 and pedals with Wheelstand pro deluxe V2. Its a cracking set up and I just used it with my Ikea Poang arm chair and its a perfect seating position for me.

Wheel, pedals and stand are now surplus to requirements as my PS4 is broken. All are in nearly new condition and wheels and pedals come boxed.

Only want £200. Can bring it to CSF as well.


 

Darren S

ClioSport Club Member
The Logitech wheels are the VW Golfs of the steering input world. They do the job, are generally reliable and highly supported by a large number of games, right out of the box. However, as @Rojer mentioned, there are many others like Fanatec who can start their hub prices around the £1,400 mark.

I had a Logitech G25 for years, but the current drivers don't really work with Windows 10. You need the older spec drivers of v5.10 and it can be a bit hit & miss as to what works with it.

The Logitech G27 came afterwards, followed by the G29 and the G920 which are identical wheels apart from the front-end button layout and driver support. The G29 is specifically aimed at PlayStation and PC owners, with the G920 aimed at XBox and PC owners, also. I've got the latter and it feels a good, solid wheel all round. The G920 wheel has a MUCH quieter turn function than the G25 - though I'd argue that the force feedback on the G25 felt a little stronger?

With the pedals, I'd strongly recommend the gteye spring upgrade. (http://www.gteye.com.au/) I've mentioned these a few times, but they are a great (if slightly expensive for what they are) upgrade over the standard springs. They provide more resistance and as such, I find it easier to scrub off a little speed than have the sensation that I'm locking the brakes up all the time.

@JB21 's price above is a good one. The wheel and pedal combos can be around that price alone - not including a decent stand.
 
The Logitech wheels are the VW Golfs of the steering input world. They do the job, are generally reliable and highly supported by a large number of games, right out of the box. However, as @Rojer mentioned, there are many others like Fanatec who can start their hub prices around the £1,400 mark.

I had a Logitech G25 for years, but the current drivers don't really work with Windows 10. You need the older spec drivers of v5.10 and it can be a bit hit & miss as to what works with it.

The Logitech G27 came afterwards, followed by the G29 and the G920 which are identical wheels apart from the front-end button layout and driver support. The G29 is specifically aimed at PlayStation and PC owners, with the G920 aimed at XBox and PC owners, also. I've got the latter and it feels a good, solid wheel all round. The G920 wheel has a MUCH quieter turn function than the G25 - though I'd argue that the force feedback on the G25 felt a little stronger?

With the pedals, I'd strongly recommend the gteye spring upgrade. (http://www.gteye.com.au/) I've mentioned these a few times, but they are a great (if slightly expensive for what they are) upgrade over the standard springs. They provide more resistance and as such, I find it easier to scrub off a little speed than have the sensation that I'm locking the brakes up all the time.

@JB21 's price above is a good one. The wheel and pedal combos can be around that price alone - not including a decent stand.

Thanks for all the info Darren! You certainly know your stuff about the various wheels available. The Fanatec ones are definitely out of my price range but I’m sure I’d be happy with a Logitech. @JB21 ’s deal sounds great so I’ll take him up on that! I’ll also look into the spring upgrade, are they easy to swap out?
 
@Cup172rich I've got a Logitech G29 and pedals with Wheelstand pro deluxe V2. Its a cracking set up and I just used it with my Ikea Poang arm chair and its a perfect seating position for me.

Wheel, pedals and stand are now surplus to requirements as my PS4 is broken. All are in nearly new condition and wheels and pedals come boxed.

Only want £200. Can bring it to CSF as well.



Sounds great mate cheers. Yes please bring with you to CSF and will give you the dosh then
 

Darren S

ClioSport Club Member
Thanks for all the info Darren! You certainly know your stuff about the various wheels available. The Fanatec ones are definitely out of my price range but I’m sure I’d be happy with a Logitech. @JB21 ’s deal sounds great so I’ll take him up on that! I’ll also look into the spring upgrade, are they easy to swap out?
Hi Rich - no worries at all, glad the info was of some help!

Yes, the springs are very easy to swap out if you have a couple of screwdrivers. From memory, you'll need a Philips and a Torx head screwdriver - but I couldn't tell you the sizes unfortunately. They are quite small however.

The base of the pedal unit is connected to the upper section by a large number of screws - I think around a dozen to 15 if I remember correctly? The two sneaky screws are hidden behind the carpet-gripper strip at the top edge of the pedal unit. When you flip the unit on it's back, you'll see it - a small spring loaded strip that can be pushed back and out of the way, or released via a catch which releases several rows of plastic teeth that help bite into a carpet or similar underneath. The last two screws are in the cavity of the carpet-gripper cavity.

The internal sections have grease on them, but not too much. Just be careful when closing down the lid section of the pedal unit, that you don't trap or snag the cables leading from each of the pedal mount bases. There's a single screw holding the wiring 'loom' inside the upper lid - if you slacken off/remove that while you work on swapping the springs out, it does make the job a lot easier.

Even taking your time with a little patience - no more than 20-30 minutes from start to finish. If you're handy with screwdrivers, probably even half that time.
 
Hi Rich - no worries at all, glad the info was of some help!

Yes, the springs are very easy to swap out if you have a couple of screwdrivers. From memory, you'll need a Philips and a Torx head screwdriver - but I couldn't tell you the sizes unfortunately. They are quite small however.

The base of the pedal unit is connected to the upper section by a large number of screws - I think around a dozen to 15 if I remember correctly? The two sneaky screws are hidden behind the carpet-gripper strip at the top edge of the pedal unit. When you flip the unit on it's back, you'll see it - a small spring loaded strip that can be pushed back and out of the way, or released via a catch which releases several rows of plastic teeth that help bite into a carpet or similar underneath. The last two screws are in the cavity of the carpet-gripper cavity.

The internal sections have grease on them, but not too much. Just be careful when closing down the lid section of the pedal unit, that you don't trap or snag the cables leading from each of the pedal mount bases. There's a single screw holding the wiring 'loom' inside the upper lid - if you slacken off/remove that while you work on swapping the springs out, it does make the job a lot easier.

Even taking your time with a little patience - no more than 20-30 minutes from start to finish. If you're handy with screwdrivers, probably even half that time.

Excellent thanks again for the tips Darren. I’m used to taking apart things so I should be fine with the spring upgrade. It sounds a great mod.

Can’t wait to use the new wheel soon, I think it’ll put a new dimension on the driving games.
 

Darren S

ClioSport Club Member
Excellent thanks again for the tips Darren. I’m used to taking apart things so I should be fine with the spring upgrade. It sounds a great mod.

Can’t wait to use the new wheel soon, I think it’ll put a new dimension on the driving games.
One last thing - my G920 pedal set (which I assume will be identical to the G29 set) - had a rubber bung within the brake pedal spring. This obviously reduced the distance that the pedal could be pushed - and reduced the gap between all-or-nothing pedal travel. Yep - that got flicked out.

Another last thing (!) - the pedal face-plates themselves can be unscrewed and shuffled slightly to the left or the right. On the older G25 pedal setup below, you had one position and that was your lot. With the G920 (and again, assuming the G29 is the same) - you can see two rows of available holes to put the retainer screw through. With my Size 10's - I shunted the accelerator all the way to the right and the brake pedal all the way to the left, which gave me much more clearance from catching the pedals with the wrong foot. I unscrewed the face-plate of the clutch entirely as it's not a pedal I use.

G25...

1423110



G920....

1423111
 
One last thing - my G920 pedal set (which I assume will be identical to the G29 set) - had a rubber bung within the brake pedal spring. This obviously reduced the distance that the pedal could be pushed - and reduced the gap between all-or-nothing pedal travel. Yep - that got flicked out.

Another last thing (!) - the pedal face-plates themselves can be unscrewed and shuffled slightly to the left or the right. On the older G25 pedal setup below, you had one position and that was your lot. With the G920 (and again, assuming the G29 is the same) - you can see two rows of available holes to put the retainer screw through. With my Size 10's - I shunted the accelerator all the way to the right and the brake pedal all the way to the left, which gave me much more clearance from catching the pedals with the wrong foot. I unscrewed the face-plate of the clutch entirely as it's not a pedal I use.

Brilliant stuff, thanks for the tips about the pedals. I like the sound of removing the rubber bung for more braking feel, and adjusting the pedal positions will be useful too due to my size 12's. It just occurred to me I'll need to 'drive' with slippers on as I think it won't feel right using the pedals with my socks. It could lead to an expensive insurance claim if my feet slip off the pedals when driving my McLaren round the Nurburgring!
 


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