possible worn driveshaft

[DomP182]

Done a few searches and I think I may have come to the conclusion I have a worn drive shaft. Normal driving is fine but when manoeuvring in car parks and on tight junctions I get a grinding noise and sometimes a feeling as if I've driven over a golf ball and the wheels have skipped (well that's my best attempt at explaining it) it's a 182ff 48k on sportlines and I've fitted the top mount spacers. Like I say normal driving is ok, any thoughts?

 

[Feates172]

Yup id say driveshaft.

Get under the car and give the shafts a 'tug'. Id guess at inner cv joint. As mine was the same, and replaced today.

 

[DomP182]

Was it that expensive a job? Could do without to much expense at the mo

 

[Feates172]

Depends which side it is. Passenger side you have to drop the gearbox oil. Drivers you dont.

Isnt a massive amount of money anyway. Something you can do yourself. Providing you have a torque wrench that goes up too 280nm.

 

[DomP182]

Quite happy doing my own stuff just not sure how to positively diagnose a worn shaft our determine which side

 

[Feates172]

which wheel feels like its skipping? Or have a play which each one, one will have play probably.

Or chuck a garage some cash to find out for you.

 

[NorthloopCup]

If you grab the shaft and pull it inwards and out wards, if it moves in/out at the wheel end (cv joint) then its knackered mate. Easiest way to tell I find.

 

[DomP182]

Thanks, I will have a look when i'm off. It seems to feel like when turning sharply the inside wheel 'clicks/grinds'

 

[Feates172]

Deffo a driveshaft issue

 

[DomP182]

Any recommended suppliers? Renault or is it worth using a recon or second hand one?

 

[Feates172]

Well i used renparts first off. And it was faulty. As they just strip cars and sell parts. Thats all sorted now anyway.

But ended up getting a recon unit through renault. Which is the best option imo. Its all brand new pretty much, they only reuse the shaft. All joints, boots, abs ring, clips etc is all new. And £100 less than a new unit.

Give them yours back and they will return some cash. As they do a surcharge.

 

[DomP182]

Sounds like the best option then, not too long a job on the drivers side I guess having done front springs before it's not much further than that is it?

 

[Feates172]

Less. Hub nut off. Two bolts that hold.with lower arm on, swing strut assembly out the way. Then its just the two bolts holding a half moon retainer in place. Will take you half hour if you handy with tools
Hour max.

 

[jinjur]

So, just to be 100% clear on this and to make sure i am not being thick.

If the passenger side drive shaft can move in and out (from the hub to the box and back direction wise) its bucked?

f**kety f**k s**t balls f**k **** dick **** f**k.


THIS.

THIS i think, is my knocking noise when the car is starting off, gently too might i add.

Can anyone tell me the current cost for a 2003 ph2 172 passenger shaft? Still doing that exchange jazz?

oh and one more time


f**k

J

 

[jinjur]

Just to clarify, what part of the drive shaft dies?

I assume its the hub side?

So there should be no movement at all? I did note last night in my quest for this f-knock that the drivers side shaft (that was replaced last year because of the boot ffs) has no play at all.

Is the cv end interchangeable at all? Would this help?

Only ask as I still have the old shaft at it has no play on the cv whatsoever

J

 

[NorthloopCup]

It's the cv joint mate that dies. Yes it's the hub end where you want no play as well mate. If you've got no play in the cv joint you had replaced last year, get that swapped over.

You can't buy the cv joints seperate for these cars which is a ball ache tbh (or you can actually, but I can't find the company that sell them anymore!) so it's a refurbished drive shaft or nothing.

Put your steering on full lock and drive around in a slow circle. It will knock it's tits off! That's another way to check them.

 

[jinjur]

It's the cv joint mate that dies. Yes it's the hub end where you want no play as well mate. If you've got no play in the cv joint you had replaced last year, get that swapped over.

You can't buy the cv joints seperate for these cars which is a ball ache tbh (or you can actually, but I can't find the company that sell them anymore!) so it's a refurbished drive shaft or nothing.

Put your steering on full lock and drive around in a slow circle. It will knock it's tits off! That's another way to check them.

Super mate, that sounds promising.

Yeah, only replaced the drivers side because of a burst boot, but if i can use the cv for this passenger side than at least that lessens the blow of how much that one cost.

Know if the CV is a hammer on or cir-clip jobbie?

I can look when i get home from work but if its cir-clip then i can call into halfords on t'way and grab some cir-clip pliers (another addition to the never ending toolbox )

Cheers
A

 

[DomP182]

This is sounding more and more like my problem, so also when pulling off in 1st I get a knock that my also be ds related?

 

[jinjur]

This is sounding more and more like my problem, so also when pulling off in 1st I get a knock that my also be ds related?

Yeah dude, I have replaced most of the candidates for knock up front including shocks and I simply have not got one bean left ffs. Its a shame as the suspension refresh has made it feel lovely and new again.

Apart from the rattles........I plan on attacking the dash this weekend for that

If this CV replacement works, I will be over the moon as if not, I will just have to put up with it.

J

 

[NorthloopCup]

The cv joints are held on with a circlip mate. I use a set of needle nose pliers to get them off usually. They're a bit tricky at times, but once you get the hang of it they're easy enough.

 

[jinjur]

Brilliant bud, just had a wee look and there is little or no movement in the old cv



Will keep you posted

 

[jinjur]

Hmm, had a real good look at the good cv tonight and I don't see any circlip to take it off. Am I missing something?

Is it one of this hammer off and on jobs?

 

[jinjur]

look.

am i missing it?

 

[jinjur]

hmm, thumbnail disappeared..... :/

Would appreciate any input hear guys?

Thanks
Andy

 

[NorthloopCup]

Look further inside the joint mate. There's a circlip about 1" down the the shaft, inside the joint. They are definitely not hammer off joints.

Give it a good clean out inside the joint mate, you will see the circlip.

 

[jinjur]

Look further inside the joint mate. There's a circlip about 1" down the the shaft, inside the joint. They are definitely not hammer off joints.

Give it a good clean out inside the joint mate, you will see the circlip.

Oh FFS COME ON.

I have just seen that a rear shock is pissing oil too

Is this ever going to end.

I thought KYB gas would be good but that has lasted just over a year

J

 

[jinjur]

Are you really, REALLY sure dude?

This is the outside CV joint we are talking about now.

I see absolutely nowhere that there is a circlip. There is nowhere to get down the shaft at the splines.

Am i being completely thick?

J

 

[NorthloopCup]

Try giving it a bash then mate. Use a soft hammer to do it though. Every one I've done before has had a clip though mate, but as you rightly say, there's nowhere to get down the joint.

 

[DomP182]

So to clarify when I check my driveshafts jack up or leave? And the movement, will it be lateral in and out, or up and down?

 

[Feates172]

Jack it up mate. In and out movement.

 

[jinjur]

Jack it up mate. In and out movement.

If its bad enough, it will do it on the deck too dude.

And yeah, in and out

J

 

[DomP182]

Thanks

 

[DomP182]

Just had a look and there is a small amount of play, I could hear a tapping in the hub. When I jacked it up I expected to feel more play but it felt like less. So there should be zero in out movement?

 

[jinjur]

I dont think there should be any bud.

I have a new (well, 2000 miles) driveshaft from Reno on the drivers side and there is no movement at all.

Mine is in and out like a dirty great dildo

 

[DomP182]

Oh s**t then in that case I might have both gone! Probably got 3mm of slack

 

[NorthloopCup]

There should be no play at all in the cv joint at the hub if the cv joint is fine. Lol at the "mine is in and out like a dirty great dildo" comment!

 

[jinjur]

I am going to go at this **** tonight with a rubber mallet like a lunatic.

It IS coming off. If fkn is.



J

 

[Tigger]

I am going to go at this **** tonight with a rubber mallet like a lunatic.

It IS coming off. If fkn is.



J

If I'd known this earlier I'd of been down to help investigate, as I have yet another strange noise but not like this

Mine is making a creaking noise sometimes when coming to a slow stop as I press the brake pedal, then creaks as I move off.
Try to do the same again to source the noise and it won't co-operate at all, mind of it's own.

Same sort of noise you get when the clutch cable creaks.

Thought it was catching the arch liner again but both sides are fixed TIGHT now with new screws etc and it happens in straight line too

 

[DomP182]

Is it normal for both sides to go because both of mine have a few mill of play.

Also might changing the shafts eliminate my grumble through my clutch pedal when pulling off?

 

[NorthloopCup]

Is it normal for both sides to go because both of mine have a few mill of play.

Also might changing the shafts eliminate my grumble through my clutch pedal when pulling off?

They will naturally have some movement in them, but from personal experience, if it's more than 1.5mm they're fucked mate.

I doubt it's the shafts causing a grumble through your clutch pedal as well. That'll more than likely be the clutch release bearing.