2003 Clio 172
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Something let go this morning
- Thread starter jinjur
- Start date
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
Nah it’s not. It’s a fucked standard box as that will have killed the diff internally.
1985michael182
ClioSport Club Member
Wow
1985michael182
ClioSport Club Member
What he said 👆
2003 Clio 172
One query.
I was of the opinion that the 182 style diff setup was supposed to be more robust than the 172........is this a normal failure as far as you guys are concerned?
@NorthloopCup when you build these, do you use this 4 bolt system or do you use the renfort plate with more bolts?
I guess I was hoping to see the old run of the mill type failure and was happy with the notion of going to the bolted style so this has spooked me a bit.
I also guess that these would probably not all have failed at once and was wondering, could this have been the cause for my grumbling gearbox under load in higher gears lower rpm (think i posted a vid a while ago)
J
I was of the opinion that the 182 style diff setup was supposed to be more robust than the 172........is this a normal failure as far as you guys are concerned?
@NorthloopCup when you build these, do you use this 4 bolt system or do you use the renfort plate with more bolts?
I guess I was hoping to see the old run of the mill type failure and was happy with the notion of going to the bolted style so this has spooked me a bit.
I also guess that these would probably not all have failed at once and was wondering, could this have been the cause for my grumbling gearbox under load in higher gears lower rpm (think i posted a vid a while ago)
J
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
I have NEVER seen one of these fail mate, so I would suggest something else has been the cause of this failure. The bolts aren’t high tensile bolts either - just 8.8’s.
When I convert them I use the Renault bolt on plate and bolts mate.
Yeah it certainly sounds like it, but once one had gone, there’s quite a lot of load running through the diff, so the drive cup would’ve been under increased loading.
2003 Clio 172
Right guys......currently weighing up what I would be up against to swap this box by taking a shiney refurbished item from mr @NorthloopCup. Financial decision mainly atm but i am just trying to get everything straight in my head.
I have limited room to work (have to work out how to get it up drive still) but have the tools to do the job, just trying to convince myself I can
So the best course of action is the subframe drop from what I am reading.
To facilitate that, I would expect to have to
- pull drivers side shaft (passengers is already out)
- disconnect exhaust at cat
- disconnect steering rack joint (or is there a better approach)
- pull the top strut mounts
- disconnect gear linkage/dogbone
- support engine and box from above (f'in big fence post and ratchet)
- disconnect gearbox lower mount from subframe
- loosen down drivers side subframe bolts and smaller rear plate bolts
- remove passenger side subframe bolts and smaller rear plate bolts
- lower subframe as far as it will go on passenger side
- remove starter
- remove gearbox upper mount (battery tray)
- remove gearbox bolts
- remove gearbox through passenger side arch
I have reserved a GSF Premium clutch which I hope will be a Valeo item, if not I will get one elsewhere. This should be the later 826558 part i hope.
What about the flywheel, should I be pulling that and having that refinished or is the general consensus that it will be ok? 120K miles with a bit of judder on bite
Worth chopping in a new clutch cable while I am at it?
One other thing is with the Valeo kit, there seems to be a fitting tool that leaves a metal ring on the centre of the flywheel when removed. Has anyone used that or taken issue with that? Personally, not a fan of have something floating round in there that is not bolted in. The below is from their site
Finally, I had been running Fuchs ( or Silkolene, can't remember) fully synth gear oil (which is now sparkly btw :/ ) What are the current recommendations for a refurbed box going in? Had seen Redline MTL mentioned recently?
Anything else you could think of would be useful team
Cheers
J
I have limited room to work (have to work out how to get it up drive still) but have the tools to do the job, just trying to convince myself I can
So the best course of action is the subframe drop from what I am reading.
To facilitate that, I would expect to have to
- pull drivers side shaft (passengers is already out)
- disconnect exhaust at cat
- disconnect steering rack joint (or is there a better approach)
- pull the top strut mounts
- disconnect gear linkage/dogbone
- support engine and box from above (f'in big fence post and ratchet)
- disconnect gearbox lower mount from subframe
- loosen down drivers side subframe bolts and smaller rear plate bolts
- remove passenger side subframe bolts and smaller rear plate bolts
- lower subframe as far as it will go on passenger side
- remove starter
- remove gearbox upper mount (battery tray)
- remove gearbox bolts
- remove gearbox through passenger side arch
I have reserved a GSF Premium clutch which I hope will be a Valeo item, if not I will get one elsewhere. This should be the later 826558 part i hope.
What about the flywheel, should I be pulling that and having that refinished or is the general consensus that it will be ok? 120K miles with a bit of judder on bite
Worth chopping in a new clutch cable while I am at it?
One other thing is with the Valeo kit, there seems to be a fitting tool that leaves a metal ring on the centre of the flywheel when removed. Has anyone used that or taken issue with that? Personally, not a fan of have something floating round in there that is not bolted in. The below is from their site
Finally, I had been running Fuchs ( or Silkolene, can't remember) fully synth gear oil (which is now sparkly btw :/ ) What are the current recommendations for a refurbed box going in? Had seen Redline MTL mentioned recently?
Anything else you could think of would be useful team
Cheers
J
Sounds about right, although I found that the subframe needed lowering both sides to get the passenger side to drop enough to get the box out.
I also just used a jack under the sump with some wood to spread the load.
I've fitted 2 valeo clutches and never had an issue with the piece you wack into the centre, just make sure it's knocked in home nice and snug. You don't actually need to use it but it just makes centering the plate much easier so the box goes on first time
I also just used a jack under the sump with some wood to spread the load.
I've fitted 2 valeo clutches and never had an issue with the piece you wack into the centre, just make sure it's knocked in home nice and snug. You don't actually need to use it but it just makes centering the plate much easier so the box goes on first time
2003 Clio 172
Wow. I am so unfit......lol
Finally got the box out. Clutch looks fine but will be replaced. Strange wear on springs......normal?
I gather it makes sense to throw in a clutch cable at this stage as well?
What about this flywheel? Not looking perfection nor a track car but in days gone by we used to get them skimmed? No lip or scores, just some heat spots and a bit of crazing (light surface cracks)
J
Finally got the box out. Clutch looks fine but will be replaced. Strange wear on springs......normal?
I gather it makes sense to throw in a clutch cable at this stage as well?
What about this flywheel? Not looking perfection nor a track car but in days gone by we used to get them skimmed? No lip or scores, just some heat spots and a bit of crazing (light surface cracks)
J
Crayola
ClioSport Club Member
Yeah that's a Valeo original clutch mate
The only type of Valeo pressure plate that wont try and buzzsaw it's way out of the bellhousing at 7k
1985michael182
ClioSport Club Member
I believe Mr @NorthloopCup once told me the standard flywheels don't like being skimmed?
1985michael182
ClioSport Club Member
George at RTR will sort you a clutch at a good price. The cable unless its ooking tired or creaking I would leave
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
Yeah leave the standard flywheel alone.
1985michael182
ClioSport Club Member
I thought that's what you told me
DomP182
ClioSport Club Member
ph1 172, Arctic182
Christ I remember replacing a clutch cable on my Valver, first time i didn't have the foresight to use the old one to pull the new cable through. That was a nasty copy part which failed pretty quick so I fitted the new genuine cable much more easily. Still a bugger though.
1985michael182
ClioSport Club Member
Do it, then it's done. Don't have to worry about it
2003 Clio 172
Ok. Mr @NorthloopCup furnished me with one of his lovely rebuilds so starting the process of getting that in.
New clutch in and have noticed that pedal is still creaking ruling out the clutch/release bearing etc so it simply has to be the clutch cable but I just cannot budget for that right now (after the Redline MTL purchase.....eurgh......lol). It looks a baller of a job and I don't think that the box out helps at all so will park it until a later date.
Took the opportunity to replace all of the ARB bushes which was still a tool of a job with the subframe dropped so cannot imagine how horrid that would be in situ.
What else?.........erm.........sure there is loads but I will remember later
Oh yeah, the gear linkage.......how do i go about reconnecting that? Do i put the gearbox selector in a certain position and then re-attach the gear linkage?
J
New clutch in and have noticed that pedal is still creaking ruling out the clutch/release bearing etc so it simply has to be the clutch cable but I just cannot budget for that right now (after the Redline MTL purchase.....eurgh......lol). It looks a baller of a job and I don't think that the box out helps at all so will park it until a later date.
Took the opportunity to replace all of the ARB bushes which was still a tool of a job with the subframe dropped so cannot imagine how horrid that would be in situ.
What else?.........erm.........sure there is loads but I will remember later
Oh yeah, the gear linkage.......how do i go about reconnecting that? Do i put the gearbox selector in a certain position and then re-attach the gear linkage?
J
1985michael182
ClioSport Club Member
Normally @NorthloopCup will post the gearbox back to you with reverse gear selected. So it's just a case of sliding the linkage back onto the gearbox link shaft and then test and adjust until you can select all of the gears.
Really you should have marked the linkage before you removed it so you could put it back into the same place it started in. But it's not the end of the world m8.
Really you should have marked the linkage before you removed it so you could put it back into the same place it started in. But it's not the end of the world m8.
2003 Clio 172
He did bud. And i fiddled to get the other bit one (with the boot) and now its not although I am fairly sure I can get it there again so I hope that will help. I think it was roughly in the middle of back and forth movement and push it into the box and then towards the bulkhead side, right?
And yes, i should have marked it but by the time I had got the car winched into the garage I had already 99% lost the plot and "get the box out" rage had kicked in. lol
And yes, i should have marked it but by the time I had got the car winched into the garage I had already 99% lost the plot and "get the box out" rage had kicked in. lol
1985michael182
ClioSport Club Member
Haha! Weve all been there working on these things!!
You need two people really. One in the car and one underneath
You need two people really. One in the car and one underneath
2003 Clio 172
So....this is depressing. Easing the subframe back up after being super careful to not move the wheel or the rack......well.....looks like I have managed to do just that ffs 
Steering wheel was on lock so it wasnt that but noticed when the rack end slid into the joint that the little recess (for the bolt) was on the wrong side. *gutted*
Given the subframe is still loose, what can I do?
I literally have no idea how this could have happened but it must like literally be one turn either way
Steering wheel was on lock so it wasnt that but noticed when the rack end slid into the joint that the little recess (for the bolt) was on the wrong side. *gutted*
Given the subframe is still loose, what can I do?
I literally have no idea how this could have happened but it must like literally be one turn either way
