I have a clio 182 and i think the starter motor is knackered. To get it off i think i need to (a) drop the whole exhaust system, (b) take the heat shield off to get the starter motor off...is this correct or is there an easier way? Is there a way to tell if it is the starter motor at fault without taking it off? cheers
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Starter motor removal
- Thread starter trevo
- Start date
Ye, thats how it looks...i just thought someone knew of an easier way, or how to know if the starter motor is definitely broken without taking it off??
lemonnobby
ClioSport Club Member
ive done one without taking the manifold off im sure of it
ye, going to give it a go without removing the entire thing!
lemonnobby
ClioSport Club Member
im sure i might have had the drive shaft out and then i used to take it out with the cover on the back of the starter as a whole
gilmour182
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 182 cup
Once manifold is free and starter unbolted remove the starter by pushing manifold up, back and right, starter will come out of the gap between the starter mounting area and manifold. I messed around for ages removing the forward heat shield trying to get the starter out the bottom , I even had the starter jammed between the drive shaft and track rod at one point.
Cant wait to fit the new one.
Cant wait to fit the new one.
Tbh if it's taken him 3 years to do. I'd say he's probably given up.
gilmour182
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 182 cup
Comment was to help anyone searching starter motor change. These posts don't just help out the person who started the thread.
Ph2 172 Iceberg
It's possible without taking off the manifold but like everyone says it's a pig, took hours.
Clio 2 ph.2 - 172
It CAN be done without removing manifold, I have just done it, you just need to remove air filter box, and if you want more room, take battery off. What I found helped a lot is to remove the earth to the gearbox and the two bolting points of the engine loom nearest to it, also disconnect the temperature sensor plug... it simply gives you more room to get the tools in. You will need a 13mm both long AND short sockets and if you can, get a 13mm ratcheting wrench and a 13mm offset wrench (you will understand why) this made my life completerly easier, since you don't have much room to rotate the tools. I also did also have myself in hand a flexible socket extension, so once the bolts are loosened up, you can easily undo them, all of them are more easily worked with this extension. It takes no more than one hour if you have the correct tools and end without a back pain. Another thing, once you have unscrewed the copper nut and the spade connector, pull that section of the loom out of the way before attempting to pull the starter out, if you do this, the starter will come out easily between the engine block and the manifold... I'll try to get some pics. Hope it helps you guys. By the way, my starter was only making a clicking noise, so, the solenoid was not sticking but no turning of the motor... it was gone, I am rebuilding it right now... search for "Bosh 110 series starter motor brushbox and rebuild" on youtube, this is the same bosh starter we have. Oh.. I totally forgot, mine is a Ph.2 172, I have no idea if you can complete this task with a 4-2-1 manifold of a 182, but I bet you can, those have a little more room, My brother has one and the gap there looks roomier.
It can be done without dropping the manifold or removing the battery.
You need to get under the car to get full access, jack up and put both front sides on axle stands.
Disconnect battery first
1. Take off under tray
2. Take off air box
3. 13mm socket set 3/8 drive + extension bars
4. Remove 3 bolts securing starter motor (1 under car' 2 from above)
5. Heat shield unclips (use a long flat head screwdriver from under car and prise away from starter motor)
6. Undo electrical connections and carefully move out of the way being sure not to break any cables
7. Slide starter motor out and bring it out from the top of the engine - you may need to rotate it to clear components on the way out.
8. Get your new one and refit in reverse
I would say 3-4 hours for the process as its fiddly but certainly not too hard of a job.
Hope this helps
You need to get under the car to get full access, jack up and put both front sides on axle stands.
Disconnect battery first
1. Take off under tray
2. Take off air box
3. 13mm socket set 3/8 drive + extension bars
4. Remove 3 bolts securing starter motor (1 under car' 2 from above)
5. Heat shield unclips (use a long flat head screwdriver from under car and prise away from starter motor)
6. Undo electrical connections and carefully move out of the way being sure not to break any cables
7. Slide starter motor out and bring it out from the top of the engine - you may need to rotate it to clear components on the way out.
8. Get your new one and refit in reverse
I would say 3-4 hours for the process as its fiddly but certainly not too hard of a job.
Hope this helps
Heat shield tip
Work from above and below car.
1. Small amount of Spray grease onto the heat-shield clip
2. Put starter motor in position and loosely do up the 3 bolts so the motor still has some play
3. Connect up electrical - spade connector then loosely do up main terminal but don't fully tighten down yet
4. Slide heat shield into position from side
5. Push into clip position on starter motor - you can use a long flat screwdriver to lever it on
6. Now fully tighten up main 3 starter motor bolts.
6. Use socket set to tighten the main terminal clamp making sure cable is in correct position behind shield.
Very important to refit correctly to protect cables and starter motor from manifold heat - don't leave it off or fit incorrectly or it will rattle!
Hope this helps - such a painful job to do in a very awkward position!
Good luck
Work from above and below car.
1. Small amount of Spray grease onto the heat-shield clip
2. Put starter motor in position and loosely do up the 3 bolts so the motor still has some play
3. Connect up electrical - spade connector then loosely do up main terminal but don't fully tighten down yet
4. Slide heat shield into position from side
5. Push into clip position on starter motor - you can use a long flat screwdriver to lever it on
6. Now fully tighten up main 3 starter motor bolts.
6. Use socket set to tighten the main terminal clamp making sure cable is in correct position behind shield.
Very important to refit correctly to protect cables and starter motor from manifold heat - don't leave it off or fit incorrectly or it will rattle!
Hope this helps - such a painful job to do in a very awkward position!
Good luck
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
You can get the starter motor out from between the chassis leg on the o/s. No need to remove exhaust manifolds.
M235i / 172
I tried this, albeit with the starter bolted up tight. But the main cable bridged the gap too much to allow me to slide the shield in from the end.
I could have possibly done it like that but there was a risk of nicking the cable with the heat shield clip and I didn't want that.
Clio 182
Thought I'd add in for anyone's future reference, just got the starter out, tried turning it every which way to get it out the chassis leg past the manifold but was not happening. Ended up getting it out by turning it vertically (arse end up) and lifting out from the top.
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