178hp 172 Cup
has anyone run a set of these on a clio for track use?? if so how long do they last on track?? i hear they are great for grip but dont last long??
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Toyo R888's
- Thread starter Markyx2cuk
- Start date
Get the hardest compound and they're fine. Get a set of cheap 15" wheels and they won't cost you much more than any other tyre to run on track. If you understeer everywhere you'll muller them but otherwise they're great. Depends on the track too - Rockingham was very hard on my set but last time out at Donington there wasn't much wear on them even though I was pushing harder. They're really predictable too and I'm much happier with them than normal tyres on track. Other track tyres may grip a bit more or last a bit longer but are much more expensive. For the money (c.£250 a set) I think the 888s are great.
megan R26.R number 006
i get 3 to 4 track days on my fronts and 2 after spa 
but it was good fun 
they seem to be a good track tyre but i stay out on them for to long i end up doing 30 to 50 min stints then i have a 10 min breather and then i go back out there .
but it was good fun they seem to be a good track tyre but i stay out on them for to long i end up doing 30 to 50 min stints then i have a 10 min breather and then i go back out there .they only come in one compound, so hardness is not a choice.
they should last as said a good few days.
just make sure your run them at the correct pressure.
i did a recent track day at brands and forgot my pressure gauge, so had to use a halfords foot pump to check them. they ran over inflated and by early afternoon the fronts were dead.
and this was on a brand new tyre.....
they should last as said a good few days.
just make sure your run them at the correct pressure.
i did a recent track day at brands and forgot my pressure gauge, so had to use a halfords foot pump to check them. they ran over inflated and by early afternoon the fronts were dead.
and this was on a brand new tyre.....
Steve
ClioSport Club Member
LMC10, Puma E
Well spotted, i was releasing loads of pressure at donington.
MarkCup
ClioSport Club Member
That's interesting.
I've never had wear from wrong pressures like that. Have I just been lucky or is it the R888s being susceptible to it?
I've never had wear from wrong pressures like that. Have I just been lucky or is it the R888s being susceptible to it?
178hp 172 Cup
i hav been told to run my road tyres at 30psi fronts and 28psi rear!! how much would this change due to the tyer gettin hot on track?? also what psi would u suggest running the 888's??
MarkCup
ClioSport Club Member
I run lower, 26-28. They have stiffer sidewalls to compensate I believe.
I've never had uneven wear.
I've never had uneven wear.
178hp 172 Cup
i take it u run 28 f and 26 r??? or do u keep the pressure the same front and rear??
Is everyone quoting running pressures or start pressures?
Brands can be a killer on tyres if the pressures are wrong as its nearly all right-handers, not surprised to see the graining. Do you scrub the 888's for a few laps first and let them cool before pushing them?
If you want to balance the wear swap the tyres from F to R after half the day as the rears don't do a great deal. I'm sure you trackdayers may do this anyway
Brands can be a killer on tyres if the pressures are wrong as its nearly all right-handers, not surprised to see the graining. Do you scrub the 888's for a few laps first and let them cool before pushing them?
If you want to balance the wear swap the tyres from F to R after half the day as the rears don't do a great deal. I'm sure you trackdayers may do this anyway
those in the pic i beleived where running 26psi, but i think in actual fact it was closer to 28psi.
and as said above, its all right handers, so that tyre got some serious abuse.
the tyres where scrubbed in, just on the road for about 300 miles. But as for scrubbing them, letting them cool, then pushing them... no cant say i did. will this improve the tyres life?
and as said above, its all right handers, so that tyre got some serious abuse.
the tyres where scrubbed in, just on the road for about 300 miles. But as for scrubbing them, letting them cool, then pushing them... no cant say i did. will this improve the tyres life?
If I start out with cold pressures of 30 all round on 888s after about 15 minutes on track the pressures will be about 48 front and 40 rear. If you leave them like that they'll wear out in no time. Nowadays I'll have a shortish first session just to get them warmed up a bit and then bleed some pressure off and run them at low 30's all round when they're hot. They seem to wear pretty evenly that way. Probably works out about the same as what Mark does, and they do have stiff sidewalls. Don't run them too low though or you'll just wear out the shoulders in no time.
BTW it's a good idea to put them through a couple of short easy-going heat cycles when they're new as they are meant to 'cure' that way and wear better.
Not Normal - you'll probably find they're pretty noisy on the road (sounds like all your bearings have gone), and stay well clear of standing water! They're fine if it's just a bit damp though. They probably won't last you too long on the road, so you might as well take them on track and have some proper fun....
BTW it's a good idea to put them through a couple of short easy-going heat cycles when they're new as they are meant to 'cure' that way and wear better.
Not Normal - you'll probably find they're pretty noisy on the road (sounds like all your bearings have gone), and stay well clear of standing water! They're fine if it's just a bit damp though. They probably won't last you too long on the road, so you might as well take them on track and have some proper fun....
i no dude..ive used them umteen times before!!! as forr the track, ive got propper tyres
not trust me mate in the clio, i can never get bored....dont have time to!! ive have to uses th r888s on the road as NO other tyres gives me the grip they do!
as fro the track, yeas verious compunds of slicks and popr et drag radials for the pod
they only come in one compound, so hardness is not a choice.
they should last as said a good few days.
just make sure your run them at the correct pressure.
i did a recent track day at brands and forgot my pressure gauge, so had to use a halfords foot pump to check them. they ran over inflated and by early afternoon the fronts were dead.
and this was on a brand new tyre.....
Didnt realise the white Clio was yours at Brands matey! You probably dont
remember me but we used to Chat on the PGTi forum when you had your
Saxo!
Anyways,
wouldnt mind giving them a go on the track, supposed to be pretty immense?
don't know how they compare with the 888s but i've used medium/soft compound Yokos and think they're a waste of time on a road car - you simply can't get them up to working temperature on the road and they've got less grip than a good road tyre until they are up to temp (in my limited experience).
Monaro VXR/Cupra TDi
Oh dear.
Did the Yokohama's come in several different compounds then? I thought the grip may of been as good as performance road tyres then improved with more heat in them?
Monaro VXR/Cupra TDi
How do they repsond with little or no heat in them? Less grip than a performance road tyre?
Generally running a heat cycle through them won't hurt, I can't say that it will stop graining etc as that depends on car setup and driving too, but as said above, it helps to 'cure' the rubber.
Nitrogen helps to stabalise the pressures when hot and also will give a narrower min - max peak pressure range when hot, so you can start at higher pressures in the first place and they won't go as high. With nitrogen you must run a heat cycle through the tyre and let them cool as nitrogen gives unstable pressures until it has got hot then cooled once. After this it can be beneficial. But if you bleed some pressure out of the tyre you will need a nitrogen bottle to inflate then when needed (bit obvious lol)
Nitrogen helps to stabalise the pressures when hot and also will give a narrower min - max peak pressure range when hot, so you can start at higher pressures in the first place and they won't go as high. With nitrogen you must run a heat cycle through the tyre and let them cool as nitrogen gives unstable pressures until it has got hot then cooled once. After this it can be beneficial. But if you bleed some pressure out of the tyre you will need a nitrogen bottle to inflate then when needed (bit obvious lol)
197
I would be very surprised if fmp's tyres were running at anything like 45psi.
If we assume he inflated them to 30psi when cold (lets say 20°C), then due to the fact that the air in the tyres is governed by the ideal gas law (it does not follow it completely, but is close enough for this illustration), technically he would have had to have had the air in his tyres up to 166°C to get 45psi. Due to the fact that temperature induced in the air inside the tyre lags behind tyre pressure changes (due to the thermal mass of the rim), it would be safer to assume that the temperature inside the tyres was something like 120°C. This is an extremely high temperature to be seeing inside the tyres.
I would love to know what you are doing to your tyres to see an 18psi increase in 15mins. To see this sort of pressure increase, the air temperature would have to be 196°C theoretical, realistically 140°C (based on the same assumptions as above). Extremely high performance road cars do not see these sorts of increases in such short time periods. If you are actually seeing this, it suggests you are over driving the tyres, being ott on the brakes (heat builds up in the rims due to heat soak from the rims, increasing the air temperature and subsequently the pressure, or a combination of both of the above.
Complete waste of time for normal road goers, or even for track days in my opinion. Only reason f1 use it is because of the very high temperatures they see, and because they go to some races with very variable weather conditions (specifically changing humidity) and can end up with a lot of moisture in the air, which is not what you want in a tyre which is getting very hot.
Would be very surprised if being 28psi instead of 26psi was the sole cause of this problem. Did you start of with the FL lower in pressure than the FR, due to the fact Brands is predominantly right handers?
Having read you're taking part in Time Attack this year, have you invested in a pyrometer? It's a very useful bit of kit. It can be used for measuring the temperature at different points across the tyre, and if you have significantly different temperatures across the width of the tyre, this can trace this back to under/over inflated tyres, and incorrect camber settings.
R888s with no heat in them will be terrible. These tyres are not meant to be stored in temperatures below 0°C due to the fact the rubber can become hard and crack. In normal use they will not become warm enough to soften up, and will offer significantly reduced levels of grip. So yes, they will offer less grip than a performance road tyre when cold.
Standard road car tyres start going quite hard when the ambient temperature drops below 7°C and the grip they offer drops away quite rapidly as the temperature drops below this. This is why winter tyres are used in places like Germany and Scandinavia, not solely because of the snow, but mainly due to the rubber on standard tyres going too hard in those temperatures.
As for recommended inflation pressures. Knowing nothing about the construction of the R888s, and going on the closest comparable data I have seen (comparing Corsa's against Zero's) and the recommended pressures for the same car, with the two tyre types, I would say MarkCup is bang on with his settings of 28psi front, and 26psi rear.
MarkCup
ClioSport Club Member
+1
172 Race Car
197
Glad people found it interesting, and hopefully useful.
It's not an area I specifically work in, but do indirectly end up being involved in it.
178hp 172 Cup
very good read indeed!! this pretty much covers all that i wanted to know!! thanks all 
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