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VTS - Rallycross Project Build
- Thread starter Jay.S
- Start date
Halves.
Thought i would do a little cost update for those interested or for future reference for anyone. I have a speadsheet with all the costs involved on and also our predicted costs to complete it.
So far to date the cost is £924.00.
Our predicted costs are £1066.28p aswell
So all in all we are looking at £1990.28 to get a complete up and running Stockhatch car. Dont forget though im doing this in a 2 man team so my costs are 50%.
As the costs are currently only predicted they will most likely go up as they will be somehting we have missed. I can break down the costs for anyone that wants to know in depth etc.
I also ordered some parts from ECP with the massive savings they had on over xmas got a torque angle tool for doing the headgasket, sparkplugs, oil filter, engine paint and De-ironised water.
Some good updates will hopefully follow soon.
So far to date the cost is £924.00.
Our predicted costs are £1066.28p aswell
So all in all we are looking at £1990.28 to get a complete up and running Stockhatch car. Dont forget though im doing this in a 2 man team so my costs are 50%.
As the costs are currently only predicted they will most likely go up as they will be somehting we have missed. I can break down the costs for anyone that wants to know in depth etc.
I also ordered some parts from ECP with the massive savings they had on over xmas got a torque angle tool for doing the headgasket, sparkplugs, oil filter, engine paint and De-ironised water.
Some good updates will hopefully follow soon.
So today we put the new injector in and put it all back together, tried starting it and nothing only to find we had no fuel quick trip I the petrol station and a gallon later it fired up. We got to hear our £20 exhaust for the first time and I'm pretty pleased with our bargain. Never done a video before on here so hope it works:-
Link for video
http://www.flickr.com/photos/59835409@N04/8354903000/
How do you put a video on here?
As you can see from my avatar we have a name and a logo for our rally team, would be very grateful if you could follow us on twitter and like us on Facebook. Another way to keep up with our progress and some different types of photos etc. Photo of me smashed on twitter catching flies
Twitter : @JTracinguk Facebook : JTracinguk
Thanks.
Our next progress update should be the head gasket and cambelt I'm just waiting on some oil and a torque wrench to arrive.
Link for video
http://www.flickr.com/photos/59835409@N04/8354903000/
How do you put a video on here?
As you can see from my avatar we have a name and a logo for our rally team, would be very grateful if you could follow us on twitter and like us on Facebook. Another way to keep up with our progress and some different types of photos etc. Photo of me smashed on twitter catching flies
Twitter : @JTracinguk Facebook : JTracinguk
Thanks.
Our next progress update should be the head gasket and cambelt I'm just waiting on some oil and a torque wrench to arrive.
bumper and lights out by JayS_182, on Flickr
What do people think we should do with the regards to the headlights?
I have a few ideas either blank them off completely with some ally sheet.
Use the old headlights but just the front parts of them and using a holesaw drill a cold feed into it for the induction set up. If we use the old ones they need to taped up some im unsure on the cold air feed bit.
Use a mesh on both sides which could aid cooling and air flow.
172 Rally Car
I have just been told by someone that the wheels need to remain standard.
I will look into some more as im sure they should be allowed, How much thread is left on the tyres?
Few more parts arrived today.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
My spare room is now starting to look like a poor ECP/GSF.
Looking likely that we could be doing the Cambelt, head gasket, auxbelt etc on sat as log as the weather holds up. Found a engine place near by to skim 0.2mm off our head will have it done within 1hour so that's handy.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
My spare room is now starting to look like a poor ECP/GSF.
Looking likely that we could be doing the Cambelt, head gasket, auxbelt etc on sat as log as the weather holds up. Found a engine place near by to skim 0.2mm off our head will have it done within 1hour so that's handy.
Yesterday we started on getting the cylinder head off and off to be skimmed and fitting a new head gasket along with new Cambelt kit and auxbelt.
We hit a few snags but mainly little silly things like previous people over tightening and mangling some bolts on the coil pack. After removing the exhaust manifold, inlet etc etc.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Head came off and was then delivered to Ellesmere port engine centre for the skim. They are only open until 1 so I gave them ring as we were running a little behind so it went with the cams etc in and they sorted it all out and reseated our valves aswell.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
While the head was away we checked the pistonheads and cleaned up the head ready for the new gasket.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
We also decided to paint to few things.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
New gasket on with a freshly painted block. Gasket was slightly thicker due to the skim, Cambelt pulley and tensioner also went on at this point.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Head came back, freshly painted aswell by the engine centre. Highly recommended these guys they stayed until 2 to get it done for us.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Next up tightening down the head. Stage 1 20nm, Stage 2 260degrees in the correct sequence for reference.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Rocker cover painted, resealed and back on. New plugs in, coil pack back on oil in aswell.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
We also removed the oil cooler and have that a clean up looks much better.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Thats all I got from yesterday. Was a good day it's amazing what a lick of paint can do. The car a major oil leak before this so hopefully the new gasket, resealed camcovers and rocker cover should of sorted that.
Those pictures how far we got so we still need to put the new belt on time it up, alternator back on, new aux tensioner on, exhaust manifold, inlet, injectors, air filter etc etc.
I will be going out today at some point to do a little bit. Really happy with how yesterday went considering it was our first attempt at something like this.
We hit a few snags but mainly little silly things like previous people over tightening and mangling some bolts on the coil pack. After removing the exhaust manifold, inlet etc etc.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Head came off and was then delivered to Ellesmere port engine centre for the skim. They are only open until 1 so I gave them ring as we were running a little behind so it went with the cams etc in and they sorted it all out and reseated our valves aswell.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
While the head was away we checked the pistonheads and cleaned up the head ready for the new gasket.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
We also decided to paint to few things.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
New gasket on with a freshly painted block. Gasket was slightly thicker due to the skim, Cambelt pulley and tensioner also went on at this point.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Head came back, freshly painted aswell by the engine centre. Highly recommended these guys they stayed until 2 to get it done for us.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Next up tightening down the head. Stage 1 20nm, Stage 2 260degrees in the correct sequence for reference.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Rocker cover painted, resealed and back on. New plugs in, coil pack back on oil in aswell.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
We also removed the oil cooler and have that a clean up looks much better.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Thats all I got from yesterday. Was a good day it's amazing what a lick of paint can do. The car a major oil leak before this so hopefully the new gasket, resealed camcovers and rocker cover should of sorted that.
Those pictures how far we got so we still need to put the new belt on time it up, alternator back on, new aux tensioner on, exhaust manifold, inlet, injectors, air filter etc etc.
I will be going out today at some point to do a little bit. Really happy with how yesterday went considering it was our first attempt at something like this.
182cup & 172 racecar
Thats good to get the head done in a day.
Couple more pics my mate just sent over.
Here's how the head looked when we got it back
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Was also a early start this was at 7:30ish.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Pic of the bay before the head came off.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Yeah the people at the engine centre did us a massive favour in getting it done for us they also replaced a sheared stud on the exhaust manifold for us.
Here's how the head looked when we got it back
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Was also a early start this was at 7:30ish.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Pic of the bay before the head came off.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Yeah the people at the engine centre did us a massive favour in getting it done for us they also replaced a sheared stud on the exhaust manifold for us.
Great thread!
Our timing is way off at the minute I did a few things today but not much due to the weather.
Sprayed a few things.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
I'm not sure the heat shield is needed though the car will proberly getting better cooling without.
I refitted the alternator and inlet, injectors etc and also the thermostat housing/water jacket whatever it's called. The cam sprockets also went on to check the timing.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Here's the timing situation at the minute.
Right sprocket
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Left sprocket
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
You can see the original markings I made and how far out try are at the minute, the guy at the engine centre gave me the autodata print out for re timing and fitting the belt so see how we go. Any tips?
Sprayed a few things.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
I'm not sure the heat shield is needed though the car will proberly getting better cooling without.
I refitted the alternator and inlet, injectors etc and also the thermostat housing/water jacket whatever it's called. The cam sprockets also went on to check the timing.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Here's the timing situation at the minute.
Right sprocket
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Left sprocket
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
You can see the original markings I made and how far out try are at the minute, the guy at the engine centre gave me the autodata print out for re timing and fitting the belt so see how we go. Any tips?
Pin the crank and cams wherever it says to on data sheet, im sure its just drill bits you need to time them engines. Slacken the three outer bolts on the cam pulley and turn them anti clockwise, fit belt crank first, inlet cam 2nd, exhaust cam 3rd and then tensioner. Tension belt, tighten cam pulleys. Remove pins, spin engine twice by crank pulley and then repin to check IIRC.
Yeah 2 8mm drills and a 5mm Allen key for the flywheel. But as the timing slots aren't lining up together can I just do one at a time? When I need to slacken the 3 blots would the cam sprocket bolt be tight?
or do I just slacken the 3bolts turn them anti clockwise until they line up and put the pins in, do one at a time?
or do I just slacken the 3bolts turn them anti clockwise until they line up and put the pins in, do one at a time?
It was years ago since I last done a Saxo timing belt although I have done many different belt's.
Rule of thumb for doing timing belts is start at the crank and work either clockwise or anti depending which side the tensioner is on, leaving the belt to go over tensioner last. Pin the crank and cams, slacken bolts and turn anti on the cams, three outer only as im guessing the cams are keyed to pulley?
Get a friend to hold belt on the crank, pulling tight between pulleys/waterpump, go clockwise with the cam pulleys fully anti on the slots until belt is on, tension belt making sure the cam pulleys don't bottom out on the slots and then nip up pulley outer bolts, remove pins, spin engine crank two times slowly first with spark plugs out and then twice with them in to make sure its making good compression and not contacting the valves, resistance should be felt with plugs in (compression).
To answer your question, yeah just the 3 bolts and do both at the same time with the pins in.
Rule of thumb for doing timing belts is start at the crank and work either clockwise or anti depending which side the tensioner is on, leaving the belt to go over tensioner last. Pin the crank and cams, slacken bolts and turn anti on the cams, three outer only as im guessing the cams are keyed to pulley?
Get a friend to hold belt on the crank, pulling tight between pulleys/waterpump, go clockwise with the cam pulleys fully anti on the slots until belt is on, tension belt making sure the cam pulleys don't bottom out on the slots and then nip up pulley outer bolts, remove pins, spin engine crank two times slowly first with spark plugs out and then twice with them in to make sure its making good compression and not contacting the valves, resistance should be felt with plugs in (compression).
To answer your question, yeah just the 3 bolts and do both at the same time with the pins in.
Right so get the belt over the sprockets loosen the 3 bolts then turn the crank anti clockwise until the pins go in? As they are offset one will line up first, is it ok to put one pin in then continue to turn the crank until the other is lined up.
Or do I loosen the 3 bolts and line them up individually then get the belt on once the pins are in.
Will read the autodata sheet a few times to try and make sense of it.
Or do I loosen the 3 bolts and line them up individually then get the belt on once the pins are in.
Will read the autodata sheet a few times to try and make sense of it.
Lol I dont know what your meaning by do them one at a time, the belt has to be fitted with both cam pulleys slack to allow the belt to be tensioned with the pins in.
Put 'ALL' pins in with adjustable cam pulleys turned anti clockwise and bolts loose, fit belt and tension. Tighten cam pulleys once tensioned. Remove pins and turn engine twice until your marks line up. Tighten everything with pins in, job done.
Put 'ALL' pins in with adjustable cam pulleys turned anti clockwise and bolts loose, fit belt and tension. Tighten cam pulleys once tensioned. Remove pins and turn engine twice until your marks line up. Tighten everything with pins in, job done.
Cheers mate, read and replied.
Having had a read up on setting the timing etc ive decided the best way for us to do it is to:-
Plugs out, set the bottom end to TDC then go 270degress past leaving all the pistons at mid bore, then set the cams get the pins in, turn the bottom end another 90degress to get it back to TDC then flywheel pin in and put the belt on.
Turn it over a couple of times to make sure everything is ok then plugs in turn over a couple more times to get compression then give it a go and fingers crossed.
Sunroof blanking should also be getting done this weekend if the weather isnt to bad.
Having had a read up on setting the timing etc ive decided the best way for us to do it is to:-
Plugs out, set the bottom end to TDC then go 270degress past leaving all the pistons at mid bore, then set the cams get the pins in, turn the bottom end another 90degress to get it back to TDC then flywheel pin in and put the belt on.
Turn it over a couple of times to make sure everything is ok then plugs in turn over a couple more times to get compression then give it a go and fingers crossed.
Sunroof blanking should also be getting done this weekend if the weather isnt to bad.
Matt_90
ClioSport Club Member
Sprint/climb 106 gti
Thats all I did with mine.. I had to cut the old frame out which took a while as its tacked in but worth the effort.
Yesterday was time for us to retime the engine and get the cambelt & Aux belt done with new tensioners and pulleys. So to start the day we whipped the plugs out so we could see/measure where about the pistons where.
We decided the way to retime our engine and be on the safe side was to get them all to mid bore, once we had them all set to mid bore we could then set the cams so the pins would go in. After getting the pins in it was then time to get it back to TDC. again we measured the stroke of the pistons in 1 & 4 to make sure they were at TDC, The flywheel was then inserted.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Flwheel pin(5mm Allen key)
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
We then went about getting the belt on and getting the markings all lined up, this was alot easier than i expected. We loosened the 3 cam sprocket bolts then began to pass the belt over starting at the crank. Once the belt was on we then tensioned it up, tightened the 3 sprocket bolts and the cam sprocket holding bolt.
Note belt is slack in this picture:-
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Once we had the belt on and tensioned up we removed all the pins, at this stage we left the plugs out so we could hear if anything was touching. We then turned the engine over twice and made sure our pins would go back in. Everything was ok and nothing was touching, very happy. We then loosened the 3 bolts again on the cam sprockets to even out the tension on the belts and retighten them.
Plugs in and then turn the engine over again to gain compression. We could now start to build it back up ready to start, Exhaust mani on:-
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
We then did the Aux belt and tensioned that up. No pictures for this one though im afraid. Air filter, Ecu etc on and ready to go.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
So ready for our first start up since goinf the headgasket, belts etc. 1 2 3 and it started relief. Although we had our head skimmed and our hydraulic lifters redone so they are wehere dry which resulted in the engine sounding like a diesel. So we need to get them lubricated again which hopefully will just mean running the engine at a high rpm to get all the oil thinned and flowing round.
There is a video on my flickr page for anyone that wanta to hear it, im unsure how to embed videos on here. Any tips for this?
We decided the way to retime our engine and be on the safe side was to get them all to mid bore, once we had them all set to mid bore we could then set the cams so the pins would go in. After getting the pins in it was then time to get it back to TDC. again we measured the stroke of the pistons in 1 & 4 to make sure they were at TDC, The flywheel was then inserted.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Flwheel pin(5mm Allen key)
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
We then went about getting the belt on and getting the markings all lined up, this was alot easier than i expected. We loosened the 3 cam sprocket bolts then began to pass the belt over starting at the crank. Once the belt was on we then tensioned it up, tightened the 3 sprocket bolts and the cam sprocket holding bolt.
Note belt is slack in this picture:-
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Once we had the belt on and tensioned up we removed all the pins, at this stage we left the plugs out so we could hear if anything was touching. We then turned the engine over twice and made sure our pins would go back in. Everything was ok and nothing was touching, very happy. We then loosened the 3 bolts again on the cam sprockets to even out the tension on the belts and retighten them.
Plugs in and then turn the engine over again to gain compression. We could now start to build it back up ready to start, Exhaust mani on:-
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
We then did the Aux belt and tensioned that up. No pictures for this one though im afraid. Air filter, Ecu etc on and ready to go.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
So ready for our first start up since goinf the headgasket, belts etc. 1 2 3 and it started relief. Although we had our head skimmed and our hydraulic lifters redone so they are wehere dry which resulted in the engine sounding like a diesel. So we need to get them lubricated again which hopefully will just mean running the engine at a high rpm to get all the oil thinned and flowing round.
There is a video on my flickr page for anyone that wanta to hear it, im unsure how to embed videos on here. Any tips for this?
We then turned the engine over twice and made sure our pins would go back in. Everything was ok and nothing was touching, very happy. We then loosened the 3 bolts again on the cam sprockets to even out the tension on the belts and retighten them.
I hope you slackened the cam bolts with the timing pins in? If not then that diesel noise might be a bit more than hydraulic tappets needing oil.
I hope you slackened the cam bolts with the timing pins in? If not then that diesel noise might be a bit more than hydraulic tappets needing oil.
Sorry yes we put the pins in and left them in whilst we loosened and re tightened the 3 bolts on each sprocket. Thanks for the help Swede cup in the previous posts.
I spoke to the engine centre which did our head to see what they had done to the lifters. They fully drained them so its just a case fo running it for a while to get all the oil moving round to relube them.
I've been thinking of ways to make a new induction set up for this and try out something new(Hopefully). I bought a cheap race land style set up for a 206 and as i was bored tonight I did this to it:-
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Idea is to have that behind the passenger headlight with a cold air feed coming from our headlight blanks, like the spooks ones.
We will see how it gets on.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Idea is to have that behind the passenger headlight with a cold air feed coming from our headlight blanks, like the spooks ones.
We will see how it gets on.
Little update - sunroof blank happened this week end:-
Old one out:-
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Measured cut and pre drilled:-
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Riveted in we used 4mm rivets at around 100mm apart with one in the corner. Being a Sunday te local motor factors was closed so we just got some exterior frame sealant and whacked aload on. It looks pretty good I highly doubt it will leak.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Inside view, I'm thinking of putting another one on the inside to tidy it up a bit.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
We had to put the wheel on and pull the car out the garage to do this, was good to see it moving and back outdoors again. Still looking for a cage so if anyone knows anyone selling one message me. Really need one soon so we can start putting the dash back in and sort the wiring out.
Not sure on wether or not to paint it yet we like the ally look.
Old one out:-
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Measured cut and pre drilled:-
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Riveted in we used 4mm rivets at around 100mm apart with one in the corner. Being a Sunday te local motor factors was closed so we just got some exterior frame sealant and whacked aload on. It looks pretty good I highly doubt it will leak.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
Inside view, I'm thinking of putting another one on the inside to tidy it up a bit.
Untitled by JayS_182, on Flickr
We had to put the wheel on and pull the car out the garage to do this, was good to see it moving and back outdoors again. Still looking for a cage so if anyone knows anyone selling one message me. Really need one soon so we can start putting the dash back in and sort the wiring out.
Not sure on wether or not to paint it yet we like the ally look.
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