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When road tyres a bald do they grip better in dry?



Probably better than my proxes in the wet! Had abit of an incident in the peak district where the back end tried to overtake the front end! Luckily I corrected it :cool:
 
  Breaking A 172 Replica
Obviously in the wet they are rubbish but I was just unsure in thre dry. When I say bald I mean the back are wearing away the limiters but the fronts have 2mm.

They just seem to grip incredibly well around roundabouts.

I know they need to get replaced...I got pulled by the police yesterday and had a lonnnggg talk with them. The thing is I do not have the wheel locking nut tool and I am DESPERATELY trying to find someone who can get the bolts out!

Sam
 
  Ultra 197 ex 172 Cup
undo the 3 good bolts, and just keep wobbling the wheel as much as you can and it should eventually come loose, may take a good few days though, maybe try driving really slowly like up and down your drive, and with just the 1 locking wheel nut in, see if it rattles looser, or drive up and down a kurb a few times, that should loosen it. then undo with your hands, or get some garage money to weld a nut onto it.
 
  Breaking A 172 Replica
Yeah the thing is though I desperately don't want to f**k up the turinis on there.

They are quite good (in terms of hard to remove) bolts though and they have like a ring on the outside that just spins so a normal socket has absolutely no chance.

I was going to meet clioruss today but couldn't get hold of him. He has a tool that makes a thread the opposite way around to normal so when you tighten the new screw in the new thread it turns the bolt anti clockwise and undoes it that way.

It is so annoying, especially as I have sorced the tyres!

Sam
 
  Clio 16V mk1 ph2
You can buy tools that can get locking nuts out. It' basically just a socket that you hammer over the top and then undo it. They don't cost much. Alternatively, take it down to a garage and they might be able to drill them out. OR, dealer job and they'll have a "master key"
 
  Breaking A 172 Replica
Ok bit of a development... the person I bought it off has now found the key.

But it doesn't help me get the bolt that has been cut off out of the hole it is in.

Any suggestions there?

It is 1cm sticking out from the hub.

Thanks

Sam
 
  172
I had to get my nuts drilled out once 'cause I misplaced the key (found it a few weeks later!). Took the guy a while, but eventually he managed it, and only cost me a fiver. Go down to a tyre place or a garage and have a word.
 
  Clio 16V mk1 ph2
Kwik Fit should do it free. 50 quid is stupid. My kwik fit would usually charge about 20 if we didn't know ya, 50's too steep.
 
  Breaking A 172 Replica
I now have two out of four.

A second bolt sheared today after I took the wheel off to have a look and then put it back on again.

Happy days :):):):):):)
 
  Breaking A 172 Replica
Patrick check out a thread titled 2 out 4 bolts desperately need help in the tuning and mechanical section

Sam
 
  Silver 182 with cup packs
Do they grip better in the dry than brand new tyres?

I just had my two fronts changed and one of them was sporting a kojak look. At very low speeds with full lock on, the car would physically jump sideways when turning. That was what made me notice they needed changed.

I wouldn't think you'd get any type of F1 style performance benefits from bald tyres.
 

G_F

  BMW M3 & Williams 3
undo the 3 good bolts, and just keep wobbling the wheel as much as you can and it should eventually come loose, may take a good few days though, maybe try driving really slowly like up and down your drive, and with just the 1 locking wheel nut in, see if it rattles looser, or drive up and down a kurb a few times, that should loosen it. then undo with your hands, or get some garage money to weld a nut onto it.

WTF!!! lol

possible the worst advice i have ever know anyone ever in the whole world to give.

Put that crack pipe down.
 
undo the 3 good bolts, and just keep wobbling the wheel as much as you can and it should eventually come loose, may take a good few days though, maybe try driving really slowly like up and down your drive, and with just the 1 locking wheel nut in, see if it rattles looser, or drive up and down a kurb a few times, that should loosen it. then undo with your hands, or get some garage money to weld a nut onto it.

WTF!!! lol

possible the worst advice i have ever know anyone ever in the whole world to give.

Put that crack pipe down.

I was just about to write that, Insane advise!!!

Get a garage to do them for you if your not sure mate!:)
 
  M2 Competition
undo the 3 good bolts, and just keep wobbling the wheel as much as you can and it should eventually come loose, may take a good few days though, maybe try driving really slowly like up and down your drive, and with just the 1 locking wheel nut in, see if it rattles looser, or drive up and down a kurb a few times, that should loosen it. then undo with your hands, or get some garage money to weld a nut onto it.

Christ on a bike
 
  Renaultsport 220T
undo the 3 good bolts, and just keep wobbling the wheel as much as you can and it should eventually come loose, may take a good few days though, maybe try driving really slowly like up and down your drive, and with just the 1 locking wheel nut in, see if it rattles looser, or drive up and down a kurb a few times, that should loosen it. then undo with your hands, or get some garage money to weld a nut onto it.

Christ on a bike

christ_bike1.jpg
 
  RenaultSport clio 172 mk2
All else being equal, in the dry more rubber on the road means more grip, whether its the result of a wider tyre, a slick or competition tyre that has a tread pattern with more "land", or a bald tyre.

But there are reasons why bald tyres might not have more grip. Old tyres have less grip than fresh ones, and the sort of people who drive around on bald tyres are often running very old tyres. There are two reasons they have less grip. One is the gradual hardening of the rubber compound over time as the components in the rubber that keep it soft eveaporate out. And the other is that as the tyre is thermally cycled - heated and cooled over and over again - it changes chemically and goes harder. As well the tread rubber is designed for grip whereas the rubber used in the carcass of the tyre isn't, so if you've worn it right down to the carcass, well, who knows.

There is also the effect of temperature. A deep tread pattern generates heat through squirming of the tread blocks that may overheat the tyre and reduce its grip. A very thin tyre on the other hand can have the same problem because it has very little mass to absorb any heat, so it will both heat up quickly and overheat quickly.

The result is that in classes that require road-type tyres what competitors do to maximise their grip and stay legal is to buy as fresh as possible tyres, then shave the tread down to a minimum they are allowed to. And with slicks the best grip is obtained with a tyre that's only been used long enough to take the "green" off - the slick shiny surface they come out of the moulding machine with.
 
  Breaking A 172 Replica
For the recored, I am not trying this through choice.

I cannot physically change the tyres until Wednesday.

I was just wondering in the mean time as the car feels quite grippy.

Sam
 


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