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Willy rev limiter.



  Clio 197


I would like to know if there is a quick and easy fix for the rev limiter. Would like to raise it a few hundred or so maybe even to 7000. Is this a wise move? Do I need a new ECU or a chip?

There are a couple of places at the ring where a shift up is just that little bit awkward and being able to hold third or fourth just a bit longer would make life a lot easier.
 


i know what you mean, my 172 now revs to 7750 and it rocks......hardly ever get out of 2nd here in HK...roads are soo twisty!
 


I was gonna ask the same, surely if it was all dynamically balalnced and the rods shot peened it would be ok for for 7000, possibly 7500????

Cheers, Simon
 
  Clio 197


Im talking a stock Willy with no mads here. And a 171,000km on the clock. It just seems to me that a 6500 cut-off is a bit low and without resorting to any engine mods it could be stretched just that little bit.

Looking for a plug and play fix here.

Anyone with experience along these lines?

Am I daft?

Ed
 


Well ive had my car chipped and the limiter is now 6850. i wouldnt like to go much if any higher than that as the Willy have a longer stroke than the 1.8 valvers.

Dazz
 


cranks are fairly strong and they can usually be reved quite high just in case of an overev on downshift. so, i have my 172 crank running 7750....and im always running around near that as the ratios in 2nd allow me to.
My MK1 XR2 (1982) is 20yrs old and manufacturing tolerances are much better now, eventhough, with its cast everything, heavy pistons and not the best rods can cope with 7000rpm....and with balancing and lightning, a mate who rallys one usually runs 8Krpm no probs....it can make alot more, its the rods which are more likely to go.

dont be to afraid...but dont be too greedy. 7k should be fine......but it would be better if you had the crank tested and balanced...for piece of mind.
 
  Audi S3


My limiter is at 7000 for some reason!
dunno why just got it like that bloke i baught it off said nothing about it!
 
  FRST and 106 GTi


well, my little 1.4lts stops ate 6500rpm. Since there is no point on pushing above 6000rpm (no more power damn), Im ok with 6500rpm limit.

Take it easy at rev... above 7000rpm is long term death to the engine... I guess the lub system wont lub as it should above 7k rpm.
 
  FRST and 106 GTi


its just because the sound of going to above the edge engine rpm or even worst when keeping it there makes me twist in pain eheheh...


arrghhh it always gets back at us... sonner or later.
 


As std the Clio 1764 has a rev limiter of 6800 as set by the ECU we have found that quite a few rev counters seem to read a little bit incorrect. On the old shape Clio cup cars with a fully blueprinted engine we use to run 8000 we have run engines to 8500 on the dyno but after 8000 they lost power, this is a trait of the engine in cup spec no porting std cams etc. The Clio williams rev limiter is set std at 6250 this is because an engine with a longer stroke crank will flex more and at lower revs than a short stroke crank but will produce better low to mid range torque therfore you do not need to rev it any higher. We used to run the Williams engine in the Renault spider cup and had a rev limiter of 7200 This was a tad to high for the race engine and found on many occasions that exhaust valves we touching the pistons on downchanges. As std valve springs had to be used we could not improve this situation.
 


So Nick, if you used uprated valve springs, or double springs you could raise the rev. limit on the 2ltr engine, asuming its all dynamically balanced?

If I was gonna build a 1.8ltr lump able to rev. to 10,000rpm wot size TBs would I need? 45mm or bigger?

Cheers, Simon
 


hello mate, very strong valve springs would be needed to avoid valve float,bounce, and enough clearance for rod and valve stretch.

as for the TBs.....i would think 45s would be best for all round as their is no choke or venturi so its got little flow restriction..48s would be good at top end only......
 
  FRST and 106 GTi


valve springs... I looked into that subject, but since I dont intend to go above 6500rpm... Im ok.

Of what Ive read, double ones need to change shims and work the head.


btw, is there any other way of testing the springs without using that mesuring machine?
 


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