Wiring a sub

[adammichael]

Anyone know what wire to cut into to attach the sub wires

 

[AlexG]

:S

 

[matt|H]

Err... you want to cut existing (standard) wires and put a sub in?

 

[adammichael]

ye

 

[matt|H]

I don't know a great deal about car audio, but no.

For a sub you either need an amplifier or have an "active sub"... and then you'll need a headunit with preouts into the amp/sub.

The standard headunit and wires won't do the job.

And you can't just attach some wires together either.

 

[MT AUDIO]

Anyone know what wire to cut into to attach the sub wires

youve made my day mate :lolup:

 

[bmh.01]

Anyone know what wire to cut into to attach the sub wires

youve made my day mate :lolup:

Harsh but true lol!

 

[wallop]

I don't know a great deal about car audio, but no.

For a sub you either need an amplifier or have an "active sub"... and then you'll need a headunit with preouts into the amp/sub.

The standard headunit and wires won't do the job.

And you can't just attach some wires together either.

Anyone know what wire to cut into to attach the sub wires

youve made my day mate :lolup:

youve made my day mate :lolup:

Harsh but true lol!

PLEASE READ

Anyone know what wire to cut into to attach the sub wires

Need a little more info mate;

1, make & model of sub for a start....

 

[bmh.01]

Well thats pissed on my bonfire, would've never thought you could've run a sub off an hu. Still in this case i'm pretty sure the wrong tree is being barked up though.

 

[DeeKay86]

Get a decent head unit with sub out and run aux to the sub amp and then wire your sub to that...

 

[wallop]

An interesting point;

Lets say you purchase a typical sub/amp package deal, lets say the amp is rated at 300watts rms at 14.4v.....

You fit this in your car and set it up accordingly.....

At max volume whilst playing music your amp will most likely produce around 50% output power, so in theory this would equate to 150watts rms, but you rarely listen at full volume....

Lets assume your sub at full volume playing music is producing 140dB, so thats 150watts rms = 140dB.....

The ratio between the two is actually logarythmic, which basically means for each 3dB increase/decrease, amp power would need to be doubled/halved.....For the volume to be doubled/halved, (as in 'sound' twice as loud/quiet), the dB reading would need to alter by 10dB either way....

150w = 140dB (full volume)
75w = 137dB
37.5w = 134dB
18.75w = 131dB (half volume)
9.37w = 128dB

So, when your listening to your sub/amp package at normal levels the actual amp power being used can be rather quite low....

Now sits back and awaits Mr Dink to respond, (only joking, not being arrogant or cocky).....:rofl:

 

[matt|H]

Anyone know what wire to cut into to attach the sub wires

youve made my day mate :lolup:

youve made my day mate :lolup:

Harsh but true lol!

PLEASE READ

Anyone know what wire to cut into to attach the sub wires

Need a little more info mate;

1, make & model of sub for a start....

Fair play.

That's done by somebody who knows their gear though, which I doubt the OP does judging by their question.

 

[wallop]

youve made my day mate :lolup:

youve made my day mate :lolup:

Harsh but true lol!

PLEASE READ

Anyone know what wire to cut into to attach the sub wires

Need a little more info mate;

1, make & model of sub for a start....

Fair play.

That's done by somebody who knows their gear though, which I doubt the OP does judging by their question.

That was done by a European champion, who has forgotten more than most will ever know....

 

[Laura]

That was done by a European champion, who has forgotten more than most will ever know....

maybe a european champion... but its adam lol. probably drunk when he wrote it

 

[domjolly]

if you just run a sub for the head unit it will just act like a big arse speaker. the whole point of a sub is that it creates more bass surely hense why you need an amp... to amplify the weak signal coming from the unit and to give the music a real quick

 

[wallop]

That was done by a European champion, who has forgotten more than most will ever know....

maybe a european champion... but its adam lol. probably drunk when he wrote it

:lolup::cheers::lolup:

 

[Rhino172]

see here...

it's an old thread and something I never actually got round to doing but it can be done...

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=206384

 

[wallop]

if you just run a sub for the head unit it will just act like a big arse speaker. the whole point of a sub is that it creates more bass surely hense why you need an amp... to amplify the weak signal coming from the unit and to give the music a real quick

True, simply connecting a sub to a head unit would indeed be like fitting a big speaker playing a full range signal, (which could damage a subs coils due to higher transient---insert techno babble that I don't like----), but, most head units now come with in-built crossovers, some even have on-board digital crossovers which permit multiple adjustments of either each speaker type, (known as or referred to as 3way running), or speaker pairs, (known as or referred to as 2way running)......

I'm not saying its wise, I'm not saying its easy, I'm simply saying its been proven possible.....

I would imagine it would be quite easy to achieve fair results using an Alpine CDA9855r to drive a sensitive 8" 4ohm dvc sub plus a set of components.....

 

[Mike_182]

I'm not saying its wise, I'm not saying its easy, I'm simply saying its been proven possible.....

I would imagine it would be quite easy to achieve fair results using an Alpine CDA9855r to drive a sensitive 8" 4ohm dvc sub plus a set of components.....

Possible to make it 'work', but it doesn't mean it would work well. I don't think the 9855R runs a low pass filter - they all tend to run High pass filters, except for the 'Sub Out' channel which occasionally runs an adjustable low pass filter.

Definately a stupid idea to spend ANY amount of money on a head unit and sub and run them directly without any additional amplification. You'll likely over-stress the Headunit and as has been mentioned above the high frequencies will do damage to the voice coils of the subwoofer.

 

[wallop]

I'm not saying its wise, I'm not saying its easy, I'm simply saying its been proven possible.....

I would imagine it would be quite easy to achieve fair results using an Alpine CDA9855r to drive a sensitive 8" 4ohm dvc sub plus a set of components.....

Possible to make it 'work', but it doesn't mean it would work well. I don't think the 9855R runs a low pass filter - they all tend to run High pass filters, except for the 'Sub Out' channel which occasionally runs an adjustable low pass filter.

Definately a stupid idea to spend ANY amount of money on a head unit and sub and run them directly without any additional amplification. You'll likely over-stress the Headunit and as has been mentioned above the high frequencies will do damage to the voice coils of the subwoofer.

Alpine 9855r.... OWNERS MANUAL check out 'digital crossover network'

dvc 8" sub, each coil connected to each rear speaker output
front component passive crossover connected to each front speaker output...then mids & tweeters connected as normal....

Headunit switched to 3way mode....

Digital crossover network;
mids, set at;
output level---0dB
high pass crossover set at lowest value,(from memory its 20hz I think)
crossover roll off slope set at 'flat'
low pass crossover set at 100hz
crossover roll off slope set at 24dB, (very steep roll off)
sub plays all freq's between 20hz upto 100hz at full output then steep roll off to merge with comps....

high range set at;
output level----to match sub output, (range available 0dB to -12dB)
high pass crossover set at lowest value, (1khz from memory)
crossover roll off slope set to 'flat', (no roll off = no crossover in operation)

Not much idea what the above would sound like, but it would be a starting point....

 

[traffmeister]

wtf, i feel sorry for people who dont know stuff and get ripped into cos not everyone knows everything, for instance he might be good with engines and i better with electrics....dude basically you want a sub, amp and a new wiring kit. wire it up with them and boom there you go and depeneidng on how much power your talking you could need a better alternator, power caps and battery....best thing to do would be to go to car audio security website and get an sub-amp package mate

 

[wallop]

wtf, i feel sorry for people who dont know stuff and get ripped into cos not everyone knows everything, for instance he might be good with engines and i better with electrics....dude basically you want a sub, amp and a new wiring kit. wire it up with them and boom there you go and depeneidng on how much power your talking you could need a better alternator, power caps and battery....best thing to do would be to go to car audio security website and get an sub-amp package mate

Chill out mate, you may blow a gasket lol.....

 

[Pete.]

Where did we all gain our depth of knowledge from, if we did not ask obvious questions about stuff we know nothing about. Just because you have the answers there is no need to chastise those who are obviously less knowledgeable and thirsting for knowledge.

I know very little about ICE and asked an obvious question about wiring my amp a couple of months ago. Thankfully someone actually responded to my question and I am now grateful that I wasn't treated like a complete idiot.

 

[wallop]

wtf, i feel sorry for people who dont know stuff and get ripped into cos not everyone knows everything, for instance he might be good with engines and i better with electrics....dude basically you want a sub, amp and a new wiring kit. wire it up with them and boom there you go and depeneidng on how much power your talking you could need a better alternator, power caps and battery....best thing to do would be to go to car audio security website and get an sub-amp package mate

Where did we all gain our depth of knowledge from, if we did not ask obvious questions about stuff we know nothing about. Just because you have the answers there is no need to chastise those who are obviously less knowledgeable and thirsting for knowledge.

I know very little about ICE and asked an obvious question about wiring my amp a couple of months ago. Thankfully someone actually responded to my question and I am now grateful that I wasn't treated like a complete idiot.

May help if you both actually include as a quote what narked you, seems just lately every thread I post in people get rather uppity over nothing....I do hope you both haven't taken issue with posts I've made in this thread....I couldn't take rejection 4 threads running, think I might have to stamp my feet & chuck my toys out my pushchair as well.....

 

[Mike_182]

Possible to make it 'work', but it doesn't mean it would work well. I don't think the 9855R runs a low pass filter - they all tend to run High pass filters, except for the 'Sub Out' channel which occasionally runs an adjustable low pass filter.

Definately a stupid idea to spend ANY amount of money on a head unit and sub and run them directly without any additional amplification. You'll likely over-stress the Headunit and as has been mentioned above the high frequencies will do damage to the voice coils of the subwoofer.

Alpine 9855r.... OWNERS MANUAL check out 'digital crossover network'

dvc 8" sub, each coil connected to each rear speaker output
front component passive crossover connected to each front speaker output...then mids & tweeters connected as normal....

Headunit switched to 3way mode....

Digital crossover network;
mids, set at;
output level---0dB
high pass crossover set at lowest value,(from memory its 20hz I think)
crossover roll off slope set at 'flat'
low pass crossover set at 100hz
crossover roll off slope set at 24dB, (very steep roll off)
sub plays all freq's between 20hz upto 100hz at full output then steep roll off to merge with comps....

high range set at;
output level----to match sub output, (range available 0dB to -12dB)
high pass crossover set at lowest value, (1khz from memory)
crossover roll off slope set to 'flat', (no roll off = no crossover in operation)

Not much idea what the above would sound like, but it would be a starting point....

Fair enough - didn't know they'd started fitting full-blown crossover circuits to them.

However, I still don't think 20w RMS is enough to run a sub - but as highlighted above it would 'work'.

 

[wallop]

An interesting point;

Lets say you purchase a typical sub/amp package deal, lets say the amp is rated at 300watts rms at 14.4v.....

You fit this in your car and set it up accordingly.....

At max volume whilst playing music your amp will most likely produce around 50% output power, so in theory this would equate to 150watts rms, but you rarely listen at full volume....

Lets assume your sub at full volume playing music is producing 140dB, so thats 150watts rms = 140dB.....

The ratio between the two is actually logarythmic, which basically means for each 3dB increase/decrease, amp power would need to be doubled/halved.....For the volume to be doubled/halved, (as in 'sound' twice as loud/quiet), the dB reading would need to alter by 10dB either way....

150w = 140dB (full volume)
75w = 137dB
37.5w = 134dB
18.75w = 131dB (half volume)
9.37w = 128dB

So, when your listening to your sub/amp package at normal levels the actual amp power being used can be rather quite low....

Now sits back and awaits Mr Dink to respond, (only joking, not being arrogant or c**ky).....:rofl:

^^For ref only^^
20W rms is more than enough to get a sensitive sub moving, strange but true.....

 

[Mike_182]

An interesting point;

Lets say you purchase a typical sub/amp package deal, lets say the amp is rated at 300watts rms at 14.4v.....

You fit this in your car and set it up accordingly.....

At max volume whilst playing music your amp will most likely produce around 50% output power, so in theory this would equate to 150watts rms, but you rarely listen at full volume....

Lets assume your sub at full volume playing music is producing 140dB, so thats 150watts rms = 140dB.....

The ratio between the two is actually logarythmic, which basically means for each 3dB increase/decrease, amp power would need to be doubled/halved.....For the volume to be doubled/halved, (as in 'sound' twice as loud/quiet), the dB reading would need to alter by 10dB either way....

150w = 140dB (full volume)
75w = 137dB
37.5w = 134dB
18.75w = 131dB (half volume)
9.37w = 128dB

So, when your listening to your sub/amp package at normal levels the actual amp power being used can be rather quite low....

Now sits back and awaits Mr Dink to respond, (only joking, not being arrogant or c**ky).....:rofl:

^^For ref only^^
20W rms is more than enough to get a sensitive sub moving, strange but true.....

I suppose so, but I'm running a 13W7 so need to tow Chernobyl around to run that! Math and explanation makes sense and I'm very aware that subs can be run on much less than people expect - although I didn't think as little as 20w RMS would do!

Mine I know runs 1200w RMS when I crank it up high... Lol!

 

[wallop]

^^Now that response made me smile^^:cheers:

 

[agithegreat]

Where did we all gain our depth of knowledge from, if we did not ask obvious questions about stuff we know nothing about. Just because you have the answers there is no need to chastise those who are obviously less knowledgeable and thirsting for knowledge.

I know very little about ICE and asked an obvious question about wiring my amp a couple of months ago. Thankfully someone actually responded to my question and I am now grateful that I wasn't treated like a complete idiot.

A dumb question is always better than a dumb mistake!!!!!