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compatible gearboxes
- Thread starter Stava
- Start date
182 trackday racer
You have a JC5-130 in your 182, 172 non cup uses the same box. 172 Cup however use JC5-129 I think. Clio Sport Phase I use JC5-089.
Im not completley sure about this so please anyone correct me if wrong. But I think you can use either of the boxes described above, main differances it the ratio and that JC5-089 and JC5-129 have speed sensors integrated to the gearbox. Nothing you have to care about since your 182 take the speed signal from the ABS-ring.
Dont have a clue about the gearbox for the 182 Cup but I think it is the sam as for the ordinary 182.
Just Quaifed my Clio 182, ran in to som trouble though so Im tearing it down again. Its not an easy job Ill tell you, you will need special tools and lots of time.
I have started writing a small walkthrough for the job, in swedish and I dont know if you can access the page without a login, but you can try. About 80 images so quite heavy. Also have the Renault Manual for the JC5-089 gearbox let me know if you want me to mail it to you.
http://rejsa.nu/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43793&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=582
Im not completley sure about this so please anyone correct me if wrong. But I think you can use either of the boxes described above, main differances it the ratio and that JC5-089 and JC5-129 have speed sensors integrated to the gearbox. Nothing you have to care about since your 182 take the speed signal from the ABS-ring.
Dont have a clue about the gearbox for the 182 Cup but I think it is the sam as for the ordinary 182.
Just Quaifed my Clio 182, ran in to som trouble though so Im tearing it down again. Its not an easy job Ill tell you, you will need special tools and lots of time.
I have started writing a small walkthrough for the job, in swedish and I dont know if you can access the page without a login, but you can try. About 80 images so quite heavy. Also have the Renault Manual for the JC5-089 gearbox let me know if you want me to mail it to you.
http://rejsa.nu/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43793&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=582
That is awsome pal, I had a good look through what you did, looks like a good little job hehe.
So basically I can use any gearbox from the sport range, just remember to blank off the plug connection if I use a JC5-089 or a JC5-129.
I'm going to have a go at translating your thread online and if it works I will post it up here.
How many special tools did you need to get, and where did you get them from?
Thanks for your help dude
So basically I can use any gearbox from the sport range, just remember to blank off the plug connection if I use a JC5-089 or a JC5-129.
I'm going to have a go at translating your thread online and if it works I will post it up here.
How many special tools did you need to get, and where did you get them from?
Thanks for your help dude
182 trackday racer
Tearing the box down today so I dont have time to give you a propper answer. Let me get back to you in a day or so.
Let me just say that there are some things in that "guide" thats not correct such as item numbers etc. but let me get back to you on the details.
182 trackday racer
It is also basically the same gearboxes as in Volvo 440/460 and early S/V40.
Concerning the special tools I will update the thread on the Swedish forum with more pictures and text during the weekend.
182 trackday racer
Tack för vaddå? Knappast några nyheter för dig eller? :rasp:
182 trackday racer
Good job, didnt think you would follow on that one
Searched like h*ll for photos before I made the job myself but without success. Thought it would be a good idea to change that since I should tear it down anyway. Glad you find it helpfull.
182 trackday racer
Okay!
Got some new stuff today, fortunatly all items where correct and as Id expected. Think it will be an quite easy job to put it together from here. Only question mark is how the deep the bearing for the ingoing shaft (clutch side) shall be pressed. It seems logic that it needs to be "flush" gainst the inside "plateau" of the housing?! Anyway, Im not sure so it must be checked out. Also need to find out what the tolerances should be when shimsing the bearings in not sure the ones in my 1999 JC5-089 manual apply
However I have re-worked my thread in the Swedish forum with more text and more pictures.
http://rejsa.nu/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43793&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=582
Got some new stuff today, fortunatly all items where correct and as Id expected. Think it will be an quite easy job to put it together from here. Only question mark is how the deep the bearing for the ingoing shaft (clutch side) shall be pressed. It seems logic that it needs to be "flush" gainst the inside "plateau" of the housing?! Anyway, Im not sure so it must be checked out. Also need to find out what the tolerances should be when shimsing the bearings in not sure the ones in my 1999 JC5-089 manual apply
However I have re-worked my thread in the Swedish forum with more text and more pictures.
http://rejsa.nu/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43793&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=582
right, rough translation.
Okay, as all know, I have finally made up my mind that it is time for the longed-diff.
I hesitated a long time if this was really something I was quiet in the country.
.. this is not the slightest surgery can be done on a car and I have never been even close to doing something similar before.
Anyway skatteåterbärningen damp into your account and it started to twitch in purchasing the finger. After bore Emil with a few calls to gather the mental strength I decided me.
-Far in the wind!
It is a Quaife QDF6M suited inter alia JC5 boxes. I have had access to an older English-Renault service manual for JC5 boxes. Unfortunately, during this work proved to be incomplete and have some weaknesses especially current performance on a JC5-130 box. Has also been invaluable phone support from professionals Renault-MEK Emil who made this intervention in its financial Phase 1'a. Many thanks! it had not been without your help.
In order to bring down the box, I have to look a little on Whitefish's guide for this which is posted on the CRS forums:http://forum.clubrenaultsverige.com/viewtopic.php?t=8153
I felt however that there was a lot of gaps produced for all of Renault manual and I thought trying to fill some of these. Hopefully this can inspire more Renault racers to dare on this upgrade. However clarify that this is not intended as a guide, but rather is meant to facilitate a clue if anyone thinking of locking in Clio.
*************************************************
Stuff that needs to be purchased to mount the difference in a JC5-130 in addition to differentiation (provided you have all the tools):
Växelådsolja, Tran Self NFJ 75W 80 (3.1 liter)
Liquid Loctite thread locking or equivalent
Liquid flänstätning (to merge växelådshalvorna) Loctite 518, 5188 or Wurth 0893574050. Molybydenfett is also needed bla driving axle
Here are the parts you least need to buy to change the differentiation
Shim to differ with the dimensions written on the bags if anyone would like to buy a single Shim. 2525 mm should be assumed by the new diff and old stock, in my set the original 2375 mm. Thinner Shim = tight preload on the bearings.
*************************************************
This service kit can be ordered if you have a JC5-089 box.
As I skrivt later in the thread was a lot of misery because I had the wrong stuff at first. Renault system referred incorrectly to the property's below even my car with JC5-130 box. This resulted in that I had to tear down the box out of the car and share it again + change one layer in the box shimsa on and hold on and make a fuss.
Service set for JC5-089 gearbox (includes all packing boxes, låsstift, sync rings, gaskets, etc. to the whole box) Renault number: 7701472393Fits thereforenot JC5-130.
Biggest mistake is that the governance of urtrampningslagret / pack box input shaft (the bottom left corner) is wrong. Dispose of Renault sending the wrong stuff.
Here is seen the difference between the incorrectly delivered JC5-089 part with integral gland and the structure sits on JC5-130 where the stock and stuffing box is a unit separate from management. Since I had the wrong parts of my box, unfortunately, we were able to destroy the stock seat to the input shaft. So a new layer will be pressed in the box.
Unfortunately, this means that the input shaft bearings games must shimsas on.
Must be one of those "dial" which I have not a clue how to use. But it dissolves enough. No picture on shimsen but the article number is shown below.
*************************************************
Now to the actual execution
Subframe down. Do not forget to tie up the cooler before you put subframe. The radiator is only in this and can drop from its upper mounts and fall down, I noticed
Right-driving. This can not pull out before the gearbox is unshackled. (support layer attachment takes the block)
Hmm like this will probably not see the link out
Oil leak in the coupling house
The link has drawn the attention of oil, see selection. = New link
A lightweight flywheel went with the only speed
Flywheel side of the link has fared much better. No oil here.
Mucky box, ready for washing.
Here we see the misery in the coupling housing, oil everywhere. Probably pack box behind urtrampningslagret who leaked.
The box is cleaned and manual open. Time to get started
Femman växelhus picked off (black part on the previous picture) in fifth gear fork (where the vehicle is fully operational in the picture) has a lock pin sat, this will knock out to make progress (use a piece of wood as resistance) Before you do that you put in hill and fifth grade at the same time to lock the axles. This is thus a manuelt directly on the shoulders not interact with the driver. Since it can be loose nut and Torx screw that holds the two tows. (See more on next slide)
With scouring warn and switch the fork over (not in picture), it is time to pull away tows. I tried once with no ordinary screed it can go if you have a bloody turn. Since these boxes are basically the same as sitting in the Volvo 440/480 and early V/S40 are the tools of most major Volvo workshops either Volvo or Renault article. Some cross-lists are not, unfortunately. I recommend not to do this step without having access to Volvo / Renault special tools for this purpose (see photos below). My experience is that the workshops are really nice and want to help, I have always had to borrow the tools I needed.
Tool to draw the fifth "little" tows, 9995339 units of Volvo language.
The tool to pull it off "large" Drevet mm, which you can see in 1170 at Renault language.
Here you can see what is what. The spring-loaded steel balls run against traces of gear axes and the various gear positions.
Held on for hours and make a fuss because I missed remove this. Can not be disassembled box more than 15mm as long as it is left.
Even back light sensor must be removed
At last ....
A little more descriptive text ...
Låsstiftet the picture must be removed to the fork to be lifted out. All pins Monday picks away to be replaced by new
Diocese is to knock out but it will be quite large excavation in the fork IOM that may take part. Use in preference to Renault tools 949 on the image if you have access to it, feels better to avoid violence.
Here is seen the same pin + tracks of gear axes as previously described spring-loaded balls resting in.
Three pins (two thick and narrow) fixes the forks in växelådshuset.
Close-up of the above described pin in the company of the wonderful tool telescoping magnet
With the pins out, all forks and axles removed from the same time. NOTE important JC5-130! Tape splinesen the input shaft with thin packing tape and grease / oil in it so you do not damage the pack box when you drag through the shaft. More on this later.
Pack Box to differ if you take that to a don, so it is ON END, then only to remove. During this is a less funny nut which is diff. Long 47mm sleeve, not many who have. I borrowed one of the local Volvo dealer. 9995323 Units of Volvo language.
The above-described sleeve
You also need a tool to lock the crown wheel when to loosen the nut described above. I built a separate bit of old junk.
Rent house
Diff from. Great book Monday knocking gently removed with a chisel blow.
New in the pipeline to jump in.
Crown wheel to be pressed on the difference + the lock with two steel balls. Because this solution has two tracks spark of original crown wheel. Original sit tight + that rolled one edge of the crown wheel. I have left off this to a local firm that turning off the rolled edge, pushing the crown wheel and spark new track of this.
Crown wheel back from gnistning. Tomorrow it will be to pop up box.
Crown wheel and large stock in place of diff. Crown wheel was really tough to get on and I recommend that the heat out of Helvar * e of a plate before you put on it. Stocks knocking Monday there with a normal vehicle, is quite easy.
Assembled in the house. NOTE! Differentiating also shimsas after that it changed its diff. 2525 mm should be assumed by the new diff and old stock, in my set the original 2375 mm. Thinner Shim = tight preload on the bearings. Do not forget to check the differential spins easy to turn with 0-20Nm load furthest out on the crown wheel.
Shafts and forks on the spot
New låsstift, pressed, the opening in the diocese must be in line with the axis.
Here be one of the three different låsstifft (other than on the previous picture) that locks the same switch the forks into position. A little tricky to get it all together when the different axes are locked each other in series. But as long as you watch the tread in the shoulders and thinking for a bit so take how the axles must be to fall into place.
Another angle on the same thing. Here seen from inside the fifth gear shaft will sit.
Switchboard Meka Simen in the right position before växelådshalvorna should be merged
The big moment, glued and ready to be assembled.
Here is the box at home with all the gear functioning. Diocese in the image is only a provisional ditpillat, a new be there as soon as everything is locktitat and clearly.
Here diocese to fifth gear fork knocking there. Support with a PIECE OF WOOD.
Pin in place, the position in the opening of the diocese that I have previously described to be in line with the axis.
Must also tell you about a small problem I encountered during this operation. In order to take the nut and Torx keeping fifth two ran on the spot (seen better on the earlier images) must be put in two switches simultaneously. In Renault's manual to early JC5 boxes, it is the first to put in Ettan, and then drive down the fifth gear at the same time (the direction of the arrow) so that the box is unlocked. This is not possible to do on my box, so I do not know.
However, it is possible to manually add the slopes, by pressing the back axle, and then manually pressing the fifth gear axle (in direction of the inritade arrow). This works well and you can draw firm ran without problems. But then we must do in the right way to set things right again and that was when it was a little problem.
The problem is that the back axle in this mode unlocks all gears except fifth grade that can be put in and out as you want. We would need to get back up the shaft in any way and it is completely flush against the gear housing and can not get hold of.
To solve this, however, manually from the fifth grade, presses the switch driver which is the hill and forced a bit both ways. Then you can get back shoulder to look out växelådshuset a bit about that in the picture below. When looking up from the house as you see the top notch in the shaft insert a screwdriver as shown and gently help gear up the shaft all the way to the position of the shoe "neutral". Check the box, all gear should now be where they should.
Here be back axle in the "neutral", the picture above shows the same axle center between their positions.
The box is completely assembled, and new stuffing box into place. These two pack boxes are the only outgoing pack the boxes, and after what I read in my old man always changed when the box picked apart. However, I do not correct. Do you have a JC5-089 so certain when you can easily switch control to urtrampningslaget which is integrated with the pack box, so then it's just as well to change. On JC5-130Does not strike me you to switch if it does not leak because the warehouse at the input shaft and the packing box is a device. Changing pack the box and where the book also is not funny, I can tell no personal experience. When mounting the differential packing box can be used to advantage the previously described method with thin pack tape fat / oil to protect the pack from the box splinesen. On JC5-089 box, you must be careful to control for urtrampningslagret ports straight. Small adjustments can be made with the don and hammers. This is not a problem at JC5-130 due to the different design.
TIP! Palla up the box in the "wave" as it will sit in the car. Mount the right drive. Pour in 3liter oil (fill in the front of the box, not through the ventilation at the top of the box), spin axes are a large number of turns, let the box be a couple of hours. Check for leaking somewhere. If not, drain the box of oil (5L canister on supreme commander for 20kr), see f**king happy and fit in the car. Takes some extra time but it is pleasant to find out if something is wrong right away. It's ratings will need to turn it up and down the box an extra time, I can tell.
Svänghjuls p**n
Standard clutch, pressure plate and urtrampningslager.
Applies to tag up properly, there was no control pins or the like. Ie. you can mount it wrong, and f**k the ignition.
Lite comparison pictures on the flywheel.
7st fitted with new bolts, model affordable for 28kr/st
Time to center
Pressure plate on!
It puzzled me a bit to the difference so much on the various urtrampningslagren
That's all for this time. The actual assembly of the box I will not describe without mentioning Whitefish's guide which I linked at the beginning of this speech. Now I just cross your fingers that everything works as it should and that anyone in the future will benefit from all the photos and descriptions. Personally, I will take a much needed vacation from bilmekandet.
Okay, as all know, I have finally made up my mind that it is time for the longed-diff.
I hesitated a long time if this was really something I was quiet in the country.
Anyway skatteåterbärningen damp into your account and it started to twitch in purchasing the finger. After bore Emil with a few calls to gather the mental strength I decided me.
It is a Quaife QDF6M suited inter alia JC5 boxes. I have had access to an older English-Renault service manual for JC5 boxes. Unfortunately, during this work proved to be incomplete and have some weaknesses especially current performance on a JC5-130 box. Has also been invaluable phone support from professionals Renault-MEK Emil who made this intervention in its financial Phase 1'a. Many thanks! it had not been without your help.
In order to bring down the box, I have to look a little on Whitefish's guide for this which is posted on the CRS forums:http://forum.clubrenaultsverige.com/viewtopic.php?t=8153
I felt however that there was a lot of gaps produced for all of Renault manual and I thought trying to fill some of these. Hopefully this can inspire more Renault racers to dare on this upgrade. However clarify that this is not intended as a guide, but rather is meant to facilitate a clue if anyone thinking of locking in Clio.
*************************************************
Stuff that needs to be purchased to mount the difference in a JC5-130 in addition to differentiation (provided you have all the tools):
Växelådsolja, Tran Self NFJ 75W 80 (3.1 liter)
Liquid Loctite thread locking or equivalent
Liquid flänstätning (to merge växelådshalvorna) Loctite 518, 5188 or Wurth 0893574050. Molybydenfett is also needed bla driving axle
Here are the parts you least need to buy to change the differentiation
Shim to differ with the dimensions written on the bags if anyone would like to buy a single Shim. 2525 mm should be assumed by the new diff and old stock, in my set the original 2375 mm. Thinner Shim = tight preload on the bearings.
*************************************************
This service kit can be ordered if you have a JC5-089 box.
As I skrivt later in the thread was a lot of misery because I had the wrong stuff at first. Renault system referred incorrectly to the property's below even my car with JC5-130 box. This resulted in that I had to tear down the box out of the car and share it again + change one layer in the box shimsa on and hold on and make a fuss.
Service set for JC5-089 gearbox (includes all packing boxes, låsstift, sync rings, gaskets, etc. to the whole box) Renault number: 7701472393Fits thereforenot JC5-130.
Biggest mistake is that the governance of urtrampningslagret / pack box input shaft (the bottom left corner) is wrong. Dispose of Renault sending the wrong stuff.
Here is seen the difference between the incorrectly delivered JC5-089 part with integral gland and the structure sits on JC5-130 where the stock and stuffing box is a unit separate from management. Since I had the wrong parts of my box, unfortunately, we were able to destroy the stock seat to the input shaft. So a new layer will be pressed in the box.
Unfortunately, this means that the input shaft bearings games must shimsas on.
*************************************************
Now to the actual execution
Subframe down. Do not forget to tie up the cooler before you put subframe. The radiator is only in this and can drop from its upper mounts and fall down, I noticed
Right-driving. This can not pull out before the gearbox is unshackled. (support layer attachment takes the block)
Hmm like this will probably not see the link out
The link has drawn the attention of oil, see selection. = New link
Flywheel side of the link has fared much better. No oil here.
Mucky box, ready for washing.
Here we see the misery in the coupling housing, oil everywhere. Probably pack box behind urtrampningslagret who leaked.
The box is cleaned and manual open. Time to get started
Femman växelhus picked off (black part on the previous picture) in fifth gear fork (where the vehicle is fully operational in the picture) has a lock pin sat, this will knock out to make progress (use a piece of wood as resistance) Before you do that you put in hill and fifth grade at the same time to lock the axles. This is thus a manuelt directly on the shoulders not interact with the driver. Since it can be loose nut and Torx screw that holds the two tows. (See more on next slide)
With scouring warn and switch the fork over (not in picture), it is time to pull away tows. I tried once with no ordinary screed it can go if you have a bloody turn. Since these boxes are basically the same as sitting in the Volvo 440/480 and early V/S40 are the tools of most major Volvo workshops either Volvo or Renault article. Some cross-lists are not, unfortunately. I recommend not to do this step without having access to Volvo / Renault special tools for this purpose (see photos below). My experience is that the workshops are really nice and want to help, I have always had to borrow the tools I needed.
Tool to draw the fifth "little" tows, 9995339 units of Volvo language.
The tool to pull it off "large" Drevet mm, which you can see in 1170 at Renault language.
Here you can see what is what. The spring-loaded steel balls run against traces of gear axes and the various gear positions.
Held on for hours and make a fuss because I missed remove this. Can not be disassembled box more than 15mm as long as it is left.
At last ....
A little more descriptive text ...
Låsstiftet the picture must be removed to the fork to be lifted out. All pins Monday picks away to be replaced by new
Diocese is to knock out but it will be quite large excavation in the fork IOM that may take part. Use in preference to Renault tools 949 on the image if you have access to it, feels better to avoid violence.
Here is seen the same pin + tracks of gear axes as previously described spring-loaded balls resting in.
Three pins (two thick and narrow) fixes the forks in växelådshuset.
Close-up of the above described pin in the company of the wonderful tool telescoping magnet
With the pins out, all forks and axles removed from the same time. NOTE important JC5-130! Tape splinesen the input shaft with thin packing tape and grease / oil in it so you do not damage the pack box when you drag through the shaft. More on this later.
Pack Box to differ if you take that to a don, so it is ON END, then only to remove. During this is a less funny nut which is diff. Long 47mm sleeve, not many who have. I borrowed one of the local Volvo dealer. 9995323 Units of Volvo language.
The above-described sleeve
You also need a tool to lock the crown wheel when to loosen the nut described above. I built a separate bit of old junk.
Rent house
Diff from. Great book Monday knocking gently removed with a chisel blow.
New in the pipeline to jump in.
Crown wheel to be pressed on the difference + the lock with two steel balls. Because this solution has two tracks spark of original crown wheel. Original sit tight + that rolled one edge of the crown wheel. I have left off this to a local firm that turning off the rolled edge, pushing the crown wheel and spark new track of this.
Crown wheel back from gnistning. Tomorrow it will be to pop up box.
Crown wheel and large stock in place of diff. Crown wheel was really tough to get on and I recommend that the heat out of Helvar * e of a plate before you put on it. Stocks knocking Monday there with a normal vehicle, is quite easy.
Assembled in the house. NOTE! Differentiating also shimsas after that it changed its diff. 2525 mm should be assumed by the new diff and old stock, in my set the original 2375 mm. Thinner Shim = tight preload on the bearings. Do not forget to check the differential spins easy to turn with 0-20Nm load furthest out on the crown wheel.
Shafts and forks on the spot
New låsstift, pressed, the opening in the diocese must be in line with the axis.
Here be one of the three different låsstifft (other than on the previous picture) that locks the same switch the forks into position. A little tricky to get it all together when the different axes are locked each other in series. But as long as you watch the tread in the shoulders and thinking for a bit so take how the axles must be to fall into place.
Another angle on the same thing. Here seen from inside the fifth gear shaft will sit.
Switchboard Meka Simen in the right position before växelådshalvorna should be merged
The big moment, glued and ready to be assembled.
Here is the box at home with all the gear functioning. Diocese in the image is only a provisional ditpillat, a new be there as soon as everything is locktitat and clearly.
Here diocese to fifth gear fork knocking there. Support with a PIECE OF WOOD.
Pin in place, the position in the opening of the diocese that I have previously described to be in line with the axis.
Must also tell you about a small problem I encountered during this operation. In order to take the nut and Torx keeping fifth two ran on the spot (seen better on the earlier images) must be put in two switches simultaneously. In Renault's manual to early JC5 boxes, it is the first to put in Ettan, and then drive down the fifth gear at the same time (the direction of the arrow) so that the box is unlocked. This is not possible to do on my box, so I do not know.
However, it is possible to manually add the slopes, by pressing the back axle, and then manually pressing the fifth gear axle (in direction of the inritade arrow). This works well and you can draw firm ran without problems. But then we must do in the right way to set things right again and that was when it was a little problem.
The problem is that the back axle in this mode unlocks all gears except fifth grade that can be put in and out as you want. We would need to get back up the shaft in any way and it is completely flush against the gear housing and can not get hold of.
To solve this, however, manually from the fifth grade, presses the switch driver which is the hill and forced a bit both ways. Then you can get back shoulder to look out växelådshuset a bit about that in the picture below. When looking up from the house as you see the top notch in the shaft insert a screwdriver as shown and gently help gear up the shaft all the way to the position of the shoe "neutral". Check the box, all gear should now be where they should.
Here be back axle in the "neutral", the picture above shows the same axle center between their positions.
The box is completely assembled, and new stuffing box into place. These two pack boxes are the only outgoing pack the boxes, and after what I read in my old man always changed when the box picked apart. However, I do not correct. Do you have a JC5-089 so certain when you can easily switch control to urtrampningslaget which is integrated with the pack box, so then it's just as well to change. On JC5-130Does not strike me you to switch if it does not leak because the warehouse at the input shaft and the packing box is a device. Changing pack the box and where the book also is not funny, I can tell no personal experience. When mounting the differential packing box can be used to advantage the previously described method with thin pack tape fat / oil to protect the pack from the box splinesen. On JC5-089 box, you must be careful to control for urtrampningslagret ports straight. Small adjustments can be made with the don and hammers. This is not a problem at JC5-130 due to the different design.
TIP! Palla up the box in the "wave" as it will sit in the car. Mount the right drive. Pour in 3liter oil (fill in the front of the box, not through the ventilation at the top of the box), spin axes are a large number of turns, let the box be a couple of hours. Check for leaking somewhere. If not, drain the box of oil (5L canister on supreme commander for 20kr), see f**king happy and fit in the car. Takes some extra time but it is pleasant to find out if something is wrong right away. It's ratings will need to turn it up and down the box an extra time, I can tell.
Svänghjuls p**n
Standard clutch, pressure plate and urtrampningslager.
Applies to tag up properly, there was no control pins or the like. Ie. you can mount it wrong, and f**k the ignition.
Lite comparison pictures on the flywheel.
7st fitted with new bolts, model affordable for 28kr/st
Time to center
Pressure plate on!
It puzzled me a bit to the difference so much on the various urtrampningslagren
That's all for this time. The actual assembly of the box I will not describe without mentioning Whitefish's guide which I linked at the beginning of this speech. Now I just cross your fingers that everything works as it should and that anyone in the future will benefit from all the photos and descriptions. Personally, I will take a much needed vacation from bilmekandet.
TVR Cerbera
does this mean i could use any jc5 box, including diesels, i know the ratios are different.
Does anyone know what the numbers relate to? Eg 129, 109,089 etc
Does anyone know what the numbers relate to? Eg 129, 109,089 etc
182 trackday racer
Dont know about the diesels sorry. Major differances between JC5-129, JC5-089 and JC5-130 is the speed sensor and the final gear.
Here are some of the GBX codes: http://rejsa.nu/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43793&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=586
Just calculate the diffrent gear ratios to see what is for diesel or not.
Last edited:
ITB'd MK1
Matteh has used a diesel box in his F4R engined valver
182 trackday racer
Think the 197 box will mesh but it will be to wide.
TVR Cerbera
Longer diff, so longer overall ration iirc. I think f0xy was saying to me the diesel box has a thoretical top speed to 194mph redline at 7k
ClioSport 172 Cup
Which diesel box is this you are talking about? and is it stronger than the JC5 boxes??
TVR Cerbera
I don't think they are any stronger, as the diesels don't put out any more torque than a 172, however a cup gearbox is quite rare and the other jc5 boxes are more availiable. I was looking at clio, megane etc anything with a jc5. Just need to find more info eg ratios
TVR Cerbera
found some more info. Turns out volvo was using renault engines and gearboxes, the m54 box was fitted on renault engines to replace the jc5. The m54 is a straight swap for the m59 as fitted in the t5 with lsd! They are both cable hear change but in theory should fit a 172 with a few mods.
Anyone else shed any light on this?
Anyone else shed any light on this?
182 trackday racer
Hi there!
versions of the JC5 was mounted in 440/460 and early S/V40 Volvos so maybe it was placed in early T4's but never in a T5 as fas as I know. As a Swede I ha pretty good knowledge about Volvo models and I have never heard of a FWD Volvo with a mecanical LSD. So I wonder where you got that info?
Cheers
TVR Cerbera
got the info from various volvo forums and google. I found the t5 had the m59 and some had a lsd. I found the m59 is suitable swap for the m54. I maybe clutching at straws, but all ideas have to start somewhere! Lol
182 trackday racer
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?p=533242
The box may fit but the 850R did not have LSD.
The box may fit but the 850R did not have LSD.
TVR Cerbera
internet experts giving me duff gen!
182 trackday racer
I can check it out once and for all with my friends in VolvoTurboPerformaceClub here in Sweden. What they dont know about Volvos aint worth knowing.
TVR Cerbera
that would be great. Just need to know if the volvo gearboxes would fit the 172 block, if they are stronger, and the mods that would be req'd to swap
bozothenutter
ClioSport Club Member
major thread revival
but the info is too valuable!
maybe put part of this in the guides, and have somebody (@NorthloopCup ?) clean it up, add to it?
but the info is too valuable!
maybe put part of this in the guides, and have somebody (@NorthloopCup ?) clean it up, add to it?
loggyboy
ClioSport Club Member
Worth noting the initial statement:
'172 non cup uses the same box [JC5-130] 172 Cup however use JC5-129 I think. Clio Sport Phase I use JC5-089'
Is incorrect in that some early 172 (non cups) also used the JC5 129. (ie had speedo sensor and circlip fixed diff)
'172 non cup uses the same box [JC5-130] 172 Cup however use JC5-129 I think. Clio Sport Phase I use JC5-089'
Is incorrect in that some early 172 (non cups) also used the JC5 129. (ie had speedo sensor and circlip fixed diff)
