Recent content by 16v_paddy

The top part of the belt (on a standard 172 cup setup at least) goes underneath the water pump pulley otherwise it rubs the cover. On that setup I think it's a 4pk belt that you need to stop it rubbing

The belt will only rub the cover if it's routed incorrectly -can't see the video for some reason- the belt needs to go underneath the water pump pulley

On top of that, they're well known to flip up despite being fully closed as well 🤣

Must be near a school

I just go with the windows down & drive faster method as there's sod all else you can do about it 😂

Only in my MK1's & mainly for being a bit nonce like for OEM-ness, so can't really say what they're like on the MK2 in comparison tbh It's more the PS3's that are the go to tyre for the 1*2's which I've found to be true but my preference now is Avon ZV7. From 3 years of having them on my 172...

I wish they'd still do them in 185 55 15, I'd buy them in a heartbeat for my Williams ☹️

Got this very odd issue that crops up on or just after startup whenever it's dark enough for the auto headlights to turn on. Has anyone ever seen this happen before?

Same sort of thing with the MK1 Valver & Williams as well

Renault are absolute arseholes with chopping & changing parts numbers so on anything over 10 years old it's not always a reliable thing to go by. Another cnut's trick Renault like to pull is having almost completely identical parts with different parts numbers because 1 of them comes with a bolt...

The "official"-ish term is fixed bias rather than non-adjustable which is because of the Cup not having the valve connected to the rear axle - you can actually adjust the valve itself by undoing the big lock nut and turning the inner thread bit with a 5mm allen key - deffo a bit sketchy to be...

This is one of those occasions where the information online is all completely wrong - that Bosch valve is the same part as fitted to other 172's (but not all 172's have it) and the only thing you need to do to make it correct for a Cup is completely remove the rod & spring from it

The paint & materials alone to do a full respray from bare metal on my Williams cost around £1,200 back in 2018. The same guy that painted it recently did another one and the same amount of paint & materials cost £2,300 For the prices you've been quoted, don't expect it to be a nice & pristine job

At that price I'm tempted to buy 1 just to keep spare

That only applies to non- Cup though as those are linked to the rear beam, on the 172 Cup that bit isn't connected so the rear braking effort is fixed It's 100% the valve at fault, it might be worth trying to remove the pipes either side of it for the caliper that isn't getting the fluid and...