Recent content by plenty

Those lower shock threads are fragile. Pretty sure mine won't take more than about 100 Nm torque without cross-threading. Hopefully 100 Nm and some threadlock will keep the bolts in.

Nice one @MrBlonde - thanks! I'd myself do it the other way - go as soft as I can without losing too much body control. And I'd have to say in my experience damper settings don't make as big as a difference as you'd think from reading forums. I'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between...

Yep - previous owner lived near DMS and had car prepped there just before he sold it to me. Lots of updates in the 20k miles I've covered since thread was started. But I'm not much a blogger so haven't documented them. Trying to make a bit more of an effort with Clio #2, by continuing previous...

As the OP I feel obliged to reply :) Damping settings are just one of the various factors which come into play when searching for the right setup. Others include spring rate, geometry, ARBs, ride height. And there's a lot of room for subjectivity as BC point out - for example the orange car...

I replaced the entire BC top mount and strut with OEM top mount and strut, not just the top mounts, so can't pinpoint the difference the top mount makes by itself.

On the yellow car, as I've removed the BCs and replaced with OEM. Haven't driven an OEM setup for a while - amazing how much more refined it is...

They should be fine. They were replaced with the newer style because some owners experiencing knocking due to a gap between the two top-mount pieces. If you get that, a large washer placed over the damper rod before screwing the hat on will sort it.

You've got the older style mounts. The newer ones have spacers and a separate nyloc nut, not the integrated nut.

Ah - they've softened the rates quite a bit on their kits. Default used to be 9/8. Personally I think 4.5 kgs is too soft on the front - so by all means stiffen up the damping and see what happens.

Personally I'd always go softer on the rear for the road, as this makes a huge difference to compliance and ride comfort. In fact I'm in the process of researching going softer than the BC standard 8 kgs rear springs - looking at 5-6 kgs which is comparable to OEM.

I'll prolly stock with PS3s as they're pretty cheap from Costco during a promotion. But if I wanted to try something new I'd look at the Ultracs. I've run a set of AD08RS and they're not as good as PS3s imo, and they're expensive. Unfortunately most of the newer UHP tyres aren't made in 15".

I haven't tried them yet, but reckon the Vredestein Ultrac is worth a look.

Thanks. Do I need the round metal disc piece?

Picked up a set of used OEM front struts which are complete except for one of the caps that sits on top of the turret. Trying to work out what parts I need. I have one cap which is the new style. But the lower top mount portion seems to be the old style? I have no sandwich plate or long metal...

If you wind the damper in then you can achieve a lower ride height, although I can't imagine needing to go lower than what the BC springs can offer. Even with the 5mm spacer I wouldn't go any lower for the road.