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will give it a little tap when I make my final assembly. I assume its just a little tap on the flywheel end.
I'll be honest also, i did contact Nick from PMS already and he said it was fine, wanted a second opinion,
How does one "remove the end float"?
Id say there is about 3-5mm between the pump and crank at this so unless the float is going to take away nearly all of that then I would say a feeler gauge will fit.
I mentioned this in another thread but it didn't get anything back so its getting its own thread.
I have installed the uprated oil pump kit from PMS as part of my bottom end rebuild. The clearance to the crank is quite concerning to be honest, got about a gnats pube worth of clearance to the...
Wow! That looks clean! And 45k! I thought mine was low at 87, that's insane! Must be one of the lowest ph1s, especially from the early examples.
Will be keeping an eye on this!
I assume this is ID/OD? Looks like you could probably use something like this (ebay special) as long as you can make sure you don't smash it in too deep.
It seems like the jury is now on the side of doing it=... lame!
I slacked the bolts off and couldnt get them done up again! (f**king...
This is what I do. Touching the two probes gets about 0.6ohms resistance. I think the I/O beeps up to ~50ohm.
Between in 28 and 30 I could measure in the order of 20Mohms, note that if I put my thumbs on the two pins I get something similar so very high.
So I fitted all my ARP bolts tonight and the oil pump. Went to fit the sump on (no windage tray but I don't want to leave it open) and it just wouldn't go. It wasn't bottoming out at all, could peak a light in to confirm. It felt more like the pump was fouling on the side of the sump meaning it...
I can confirm that i do not have that tool.
i think my concern is removing the clasp that holds the main bearing and trying to seal that again with the sealant.