Odyssey Ph1

So just back from a 950 mile round trip picking up a odyssey blue phase 1. Wasn't meant to be buying a project but the list below is without even having a look underneath it yet. Not a bad list for something that was supposed to be something to get in and just be able to use.

In no particular order issues found so far are

sticking n/s front caliper
corroded discs all round
key only works in fuel cap and ignition and central locking doesn't seem to work either
all tyres are cracking
vibration through the steering wheel over 65mph
exhaust blowing and decat
slight crunch into 3rd at high rpm
looking like last belt change was 2016
erratic speedo, seems ok on steady acceleration but dances all over the place revving and under harder acceleration'
rear fog light symbol illuminates when braking and flashes with the indicator
serv light is on
no airbag light on but wiring underneath front seats not connected and some wires are cut
abs light came on driving it
temperature gauge rises when putting the headlights on. At first it rose all the way to last single dot on the gauge before the double dots at the very top. This seemed to settle down to just one dot above central and drops instantly to the middle when the lights are switched off
passenger window switch works backwards on passenger and drivers door control, pulling up puts the window down. When putting the windows up or down the temperature gauge also rises
clutch and throttle pedal seem abnormally heavy. I've had 4 previous ph1 to compare with and this is heavier than all of them by far
radio doesn't work just says error
blower motor worked for about 5 minuets on speed 4 only and then stoped working completely
trip computer wasn't working but seemed to come back around after quite a few pokes at the trip button
front bumper doesn't sit right and front arch liners are loose
central dash vents broken and superglued in place and the adjuster to turn the vents on or off on both the outer passenger and drivers vents are broken

not a bad list of stuff for doing about 1200 miles since one of the previous owners was 12k deep in it with bodywork and other bits

So why did I buy it

One of the previous owners spent a small fortune on the body work about 5 years ago having new inner and outer sills some arch work on one side and then a whole rear quarter for rust around the fuel filler cap then subsequently pretty much a full respray and paint protection film on the front end. Theres a mark on the front n/s wing but hopefully the film has done its job and theres some light scratches on the rear quarter, no ppf there but might get a quote to sort it as i have a spare cup spoiler which would look good on it that would need spraying

Still not sure if it's the right car for me at the moment with the work that needs doing but need to give it a good clean to see how the rest of the paint and bodywork has held up then take a look underneath and see if there's any more surprises to find to add to the list above before making a final decision on it

Just one picture of it at the moment as still slightly disappointed after traveling so far for it.

Holy s**t that’s some list 🫣

It's the best colour though.

Clio_fool said:

It's the best colour though.

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After flame red you maniac.

Best colour, and it'll get under your skin for sure. If it's not rotten when you get under it then it's a keeper imo and the rest is just tinker time, likely a lot just bad earth's as it's perhaps been sat, so clean up all the earth straps through the car and see where you are then

I'll check see if it's on my Odyssey register too, plate looks familiar. It was used hard 2017-2019 as well, over 60k miles in two years, overall mileage is similar to mine, 180k ish

Doesnt sound too bad, all minor fixes if no rust. Well worth sorting.

Yeah odyssey is the best colour. I’ve had two previously and had no luck with either of them.

Yeah quite a list. Some need sorting straight away other stuff I can sort of live with for now. A lot of the electrical is probably earths and connections from not being used enough. Some of the years it’s done about 150 miles.

My thoughts were I’m basically paying for the bodywork rust issues being sorted.
Here are a couple of photos of what was done and how it was looking.

Love it. Great colour.

Nice to see one you can just get in and drive and not have to tinker with.

Any chance that a UCH refurb could help with some of the issues?

Polynesian said:

Any chance that a UCH refurb could help with some of the issues?

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I think it’s more likely an earth issue. That’s my first port of call anyone. Is to clean up the engine earths and then top dash of and look at those earths.

cp1991 said:

Yeah odyssey is the best colour. I’ve had two previously and had no luck with either of them.

Yeah quite a list. Some need sorting straight away other stuff I can sort of live with for now. A lot of the electrical is probably earths and connections from not being used enough. Some of the years it’s done about 150 miles.

My thoughts were I’m basically paying for the bodywork rust issues being sorted.
Here are a couple of photos of what was done and how it was looking.

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Judging from the pictures it was a proper panelbeating job, and the paint came out great!
I agree with the others, if it's all good underneath then it's well worth keeping.
There's 2 earth straps in the engine bay, one at the front of the gearbox near the subframe to gearbox rubber mount and one at the back between the starter and gearbox IIRC. Also as others have pointed out, the UCH could be at fault. But another thing to mention is that that spot under the dash where the UCH and some of the relays are is a prime zone for water ingress and corrosion, so I'd check the UCH harness connector and all the relays for any green terminals. The water ingress comes from clogged drains under the scuttle panel.
The throttle on Ph1's is cable actuated so I suppose the condition of the cable/stiffness of the throttle butterfly would be the only explanation for a stiff throttle pedal. The clutch pedal being stiff could also be the clutch cable being worn and the sleeve trying to go inside itself, or if the gearbox was removed for a clutch job the guide tube could've have been greased (it should never be greased, it will just collect clutch dust and gum up, the thrust bearing's made of a special plastic that's self-lubricating).

Razmann4k said:

Judging from the pictures it was a proper panelbeating job, and the paint came out great!
I agree with the others, if it's all good underneath then it's well worth keeping.
There's 2 earth straps in the engine bay, one at the front of the gearbox near the subframe to gearbox rubber mount and one at the back between the starter and gearbox IIRC. Also as others have pointed out, the UCH could be at fault. But another thing to mention is that that spot under the dash where the UCH and some of the relays are is a prime zone for water ingress and corrosion, so I'd check the UCH harness connector and all the relays for any green terminals. The water ingress comes from clogged drains under the scuttle panel.
The throttle on Ph1's is cable actuated so I suppose the condition of the cable/stiffness of the throttle butterfly would be the only explanation for a stiff throttle pedal. The clutch pedal being stiff could also be the clutch cable being worn and the sleeve trying to go inside itself, or if the gearbox was removed for a clutch job the guide tube could've have been greased (it should never be greased, it will just collect clutch dust and gum up, the thrust bearing's made of a special plastic that's self-lubricating).

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Thanks! some useful information to keep. Think i saw an invoice for a genuine cable in 2017 in the paper work.

Hoping to find the time to get underneath it at the end of next week if it ever stops raining.

Just looking at cat options and wondering if this would do. Looks to have a standard manifold then just straight through to the back box at the moment. Slightly annoying the bumper has been cut so at the moment it probably makes sense to leave the back box alone as it actually appears to fit quite nicely.

cp1991 said:

Thanks! some useful information to keep. Think i saw an invoice for a genuine cable in 2017 in the paper work.

Hoping to find the time to get underneath it at the end of next week if it ever stops raining.

Just looking at cat options and wondering if this would do. Looks to have a standard manifold then just straight through to the back box at the moment. Slightly annoying the bumper has been cut so at the moment it probably makes sense to leave the back box alone as it actually appears to fit quite nicely.

BM Catalysts BM90942 Non Type Approved Catalytic Converter

Buy BM Catalysts BM90942 online. We are BM Catalysts authorised stockists. Free and fast UK delivery.

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From the pictures it looks right, but in South Africa we don't have to worry about cats or annual MOTs, so a local Brit's opinion on that specific part would be far more valuable there😂!
As for the clutch, if the cable itself is confirmed good (and a genuine one from 2017 might well be), then the problem is likely inside the gearbox bellhousing, I'm afraid. To help narrow it down, is the pedal just generally stiff, or is it so heavy it would be unbearable in stop/start traffic? Also, does it move in a smooth (but heavy) arc, or does it feel notchy, move in small 'steps,' or make a creaking/gritty sound? If it's the latter, especially with notchiness or creaking, that's a sign of the guide tube being gummed up from grease, as the clutch dust turns it into abrasive paste. That would mean dropping the gearbox to clean it out properly, and then it may well be worth the effort of replacing the clutch and rear main seal if that hasn’t been done already (hopefully has been done or isn't necessary).