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You will have to set a budget. BC Br is £764 and includes top mounts. Ds are £90 more and also include top mounts.
For the price they are rather hard to beat
https://www.kamracing.co.uk/car-tuning/renault/renault-clio-mk2/suspension.html?product_category_sub=4326&product_car_model_new=
Another...
Wow. What have you done wrong to get that high insurance lol
I'm running a 328 F30 and its brilliant in traffic due to its ability to crawl along happily in most gears. I can crawl at 25-30mph in 5th. With an auto version it would be extremely capable in bad stop start traffic. Out of choice...
With the limitations of a twist beam in play then rear roll centre is not really an area that can be improved significantly to actually make any difference.
I always prefer to work a different way. Find the problem first. What do you want to achieve? Better grip, tyre wear, the chassis dynamics...
The basic fact of the matter is different compounds react to the weather and lack of care of a road car differently. I think you did well to get three years and 18000miles out of them. I've seen many people needing OEM brakes in a similar time.
You try the same with Ferodo DS1.11 and you will...
Yeah I cant figure that one either. But the guy who owns it has a really successful business he was running a team through a few years ago. I forget the details.
Shockingly fast. His wet lap times are what the majority were at in the dry. Could have gone faster if the KTM Xbow was not in the way. Has something like 800bhp
Advancement in Tyres, suspension and the evolution of active differentials have tamed the cars somewhat. They still get driven on the limit but arguably in a more predicatable manner
Its nothing to do with spring diameter really. Theres multiple ways to make a spring to a given spring rate. You can use a thinner wire and more coilovers, or thicker and less coils. This gives different characteristics to the spring behaviour.
Its metal, when the powdercoating eventually fails...
use what you have. I would say once you've gone through a bedding in period. Allow the brakes to cool and go through a second heat cycle to make doubly sure you have done it right.
The pads are not R90 compliant so cannot be sold as road pads. They basically have too high friction level.
Try them and then if they dont work for you you have something tangeble to regret lol but also something you can change through understanding of how you are using the car and how the pads...
Really you need matched pads AND discs. You can contaminate the pads by changing compound and going through another breaking in session so its not really a simple swap pads job. Basically for a car driven to track its not really worth doing as you wont have that much wear.
Thanks Rojer but I cant take much credit for the CAD drawings. I come up with the silly ideas and a friend of mine does the clever bit to make it reality
If we need to we can use titanium plates as they can be machined super thin and possibly will be needed anyway to get the driveshaft angle perfect and align this mount with the gearbox accurately.
I like your thinking, mainly because it matches mine though I was thinking computer processors!
I thought about making the whole mount surface like that but went solid in the end due to the machining costs. We'll test the temperatures everything gets to and see if its enough. We have a backing...
We are well into unchartered waters and theres nothing to really compare to. I'll have a duct of some sort coming into this area as its also worth keeping wategates cool for longevity. The aluminium will work well as a heat sink and I'll make a removable heatshield round the bearings out of...
The missus has just bought a 1.2 town car for going back to and forth from work and its actually really good for what it does. Knowing that its only a 1.2 means I never try to drive it fast and its really frugal on fuel compared to our last car. Cheap parts to maintain and cheap on daily running...