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The servo in my pic is the 1 that split itself open so that bit was already easy to disassemble 🤣
The rod the pedal attaches to is really easy to remove, it sits inside the plastic sleeve & is held in place with the 2 black clips which are then secured into place by the circlip spring thing...
I thought the 182 master cylinder couldn't be used because it only has 2 ports where the non abs one from the Cup has 4 ports?
I was thinking more along the lines of the piston inside the MC being in a different position requiring a different length rod to press it while maintaining the same...
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I'm thinking this could also be related to the master cylinder being different on the Cup - I could also be talking a load of b****cks but it's something that seems plausible from my experience
You can't use sensible logic like that with French cars :ROFLMAO:
You'd think that's the case but there really are a load of things that are annoyingly unique to the cup - which I have discovered the hard way - and probably a load I don't know about too.
A brilliant example of this kind of...
If I was in this situation again I'd be getting my hands on some other servos & dismantling them to measure & compare stuff inside (I was about to scrounge some from a local scrappy that had a load of pov spec Mk2's in) with a view to making a good 1 that fits & works.
As far as I can think...
You've got no chance of restoring yours, the rust has completely compromised the metal at the point it needs to be it's strongest (that's why it split in 2) it's just like rust anywhere else on the car, the only way to repair it is to chop it out & replace the metal itself.
On top of that you...
These are the part numbers from mine & what I got from Autodoc.
You can see the side by side pic that the servos are different. I reckon it's possible to swap the rod over to make it right but I chickened out because the new servo was really expensive, took ages to arrive, if it didn't work it'd...
Sounds like Mick has got a dose of amnesia & forgot all about the exact same nightmare I had with with mine just over 2 years ago :ROFLMAO:
I'll have to go through my old photos to help properly explain but the short version is that I found it impossible to find a servo with the same part...
The cams I mentioned are the ones that work perfectly fine with the stock F7R springs and lifters - a lot of people have used those with good results over the years.
There are other makes of cams that people have used but I'm not familiar with the specs of them so can't really offer any useful...
That's mega high rpms for a stock bottom end 😳
My f7r setup is running at slightly higher rpms but it's got forged rods, forged high compression pistons, crazy wild cams & solid lifters and it's utterly awful for road use - what you're looking at and with the cams you'll need it'll be just as...
Cams are a must for that engine as the original ones are junk, fitting standard Williams F7R A700 cams into a megane engine usually gives an extra 10-15 bhp without any other modifications so upgraded ones are well worth doing.
If you want it to be able to rev like the f7p safely you'll need to...
Let this thing see daylight for the 1st time in 3 years & the engine bay looks like Pablo Escobar was a former owner, so gave it a wipe down with a damp cloth then put it away with a cover on it this time
Nobody told me 😬 I just made an assumption based of stuff I've read that it was the more cost effective thing to do rather than fit different cams 🫣
I had no idea that was the purpose of the Grp n timing tbh, looks like I'll need to spend some more money on this b*****d thing 🤣
I know the 225 injectors are deffo overkill for this engine
Looking at what @Coops Mk1 is running on his & I don't think mine will be anywhere near that sort of power so I'm not really sure what to use
Doing a search on this subject gives answers that are clear as mud & raises more questions than answers 🙄
Engine spec: High comp pistons, port matched inlets, 182 manifold & Group N cam timing
So when it's time for mapping, are the standard 172 injectors going to be man enough or would I be...
That's about 100 miles away from me :ROFLMAO:
Could still probably sort something out though, there's a big group of us Mk1 owners (1 of them is actually from Aylesbury) doing a trackday at Bedford on the 11th of next month so I could bring the glass down & meet you there
The problem is that the cheaper discs quite often have s**t bearings in them that don't last very long at all so you end up doing the job twice.
Genuine discs come with SNR or SKF bearings in them so if you're trying to go down the cheaper route, try to find discs that use those brands of bearings
Renault: We built the cars with strengthened areas specifically designed for jacking the car up with
Experienced owners: STFU Jean-Claude you're full of merde, you made those bits out of material that surrenders faster than your grandad did in 1940
I also jack the car up the same way as others...
They don't fit, the flange to the cylinder head is completely different so it needs swapping over.
There's a thread on here somewhere with pics of it done with a 172 manifold, the other issue is making sure it clears the starter motor but not foul the bulkhead.
I reckon the solution to that is...
They're probably very similar but the Valver subframe needs an extra hole drilling in it to accept the front gearbox mount
As for the Megane turbo engine, they're completely different so that'll be some clever fabrication needed to get it to fit in there, from a mounting the engine perspective...
I'm loving the roof mounted intercooler :love:
There's a thread on here somewhere of someone's 172 with the engine in the back that might have useful info in it.
In the pile of parts, see if you've got the R5 engine mount brackets, those will make it easy to mount the engine onto the subframe...