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Depends on how the car is setup suspension wise, on a standard ride height etc yeah they'll fit easily If it's lowered with extra camber or anything funky, tyre size will be a factor in whether they clear or not Got to say I'm quite surprised at the specs of the genuine Speedline ones, I'm used...

Yes I did.....................sort of, the Mk2 hubs are 26mm thick so yours are deffo Mk1 items. Unfortunately I completely forgot about the CV joint splines, I'd say they're most probably mk1 items as well but the hub flanges are interchangeable between the 2 so can't say with 100% certainty

Yeah that's a Mk1 box from a Williams but if the gearset inside has been changed it doesn't really matter what you call it, on all the JC5's the 3 numbers after it are what determines the ratios etc inside it

I'll be with my car later today so will measure up & let you know. I also found this in case you go down the Group A route

Annoyingly the pipes are blocking the exact bits I need to look at to id the box 🤣 I'm trying to look at the bolt holes on the top of the box where the mount normally goes. If it's a speedo drive box you'll be able to see a hole for a speedo sensor or cable to plug into on the top of the box...

If it's a Williams box it will be a JC5 014

For all intent & purposes there's nothing special or different about the Williams, it's just bits bolted to the shell that make them different Same applies to the lower spec shells, it's basically just this panel circled on each side that makes the 16v & Williams different

The vin will tell you exactly what it is, there's the vin plate above the drivers headlight & the vin is also stamped on the drivers side suspension turret. Will start with VF1C57M if it's a Williams or VF1C57D if it's a 1.8 16v shell both are pretty much identical though

If you measure the diameter of the hole in the hub for the driveshaft spline as well as the thickness of the stub axle where it attaches to the shock absorber you'll know if it's a mk1 or mk2 hub as they're different sizes (I can't remember them off the top of my head) which will also help tell...

I vaguely know some bits & bobs about the car, I bought my track car shell from Rod and traded loads of other parts with him over the years so always spoke about the car & events he did in it

You had me confused as hell with the surname, I know Rod & was thinking wow there's 2 blokes called Rod with yellow Mk1 rally cars🤣

Quit while you're ahead as this route is painfully expensive :ROFLMAO: Bordanovasport are another decent source for parts to go down the Maxi route and Pure Motorsport sell a few bits that although aren't Maxi, they'll help with widening bits & bobs, especially some Mk2 items As for the...

Finished building a high comp engine & fitted it today

Not obscenely priced from RPD https://renaultpartsdirect.co.uk/parts/engine-parts/renault-clio-172-oil-pressure-switch-8200671286/

Yes, the ph1 ends in 105, ph2 is 103, Williams is 107 and R19 1.8 16v is 101 Ignore the bold numbers as they vary a lot, it's the numbers above that matter to identify what's what

Sorry, didn't spot that yours is a 182 which probably doesn't have it 🫣 The nothing for the rears is deffo an odd one but it does sound like it's possibly air in the ABS system

Sounds a lot like the rear compensator valve is knackered - that's assuming it actually has one though, are you getting fluid out of the rear calipers when bleeding them?

What kind of magic beans though? 🤔

I don't trust anything where the price isn't in proper pounds so can't help you, sorry 🫣

I'm in the process of upgrading from a shitty little rented garage to a small workshop so on the lookout for tools & whatnot and stumbled upon this https://www.accessoriey.com/products/teng-tools-608-piece-67-wide-juggernaut-eva-foam-tool-kit-tcw813unbk-eva?data_from=cart_list Is this legit or...

I warmed up the pulley with a heat gun & used some big pliers to wiggle it off

@RichValver was it you that tried to get fogs redone?

The short answer is no. Quite a few people have tried over the years & pretty much failed for various different reasons. I vaguely remember that somebody managed to find a company that could do it properly (some kind of dipping/plating process) but it was something ridiculous like £300-400 per...

Yes you need to bleed the rear calipers for the compensator The nut on the bottom is a lock nut for the threaded bit in the middle, that adjusts the bias - I left it as is on mine & haven't had chance to play around with it yet. I also had to bleed it with this kind of pressure bleeder as...

That deffo sounds like it's failed internally if it's leaking from there https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145809196216?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=CjwKCAjw1emzBhB8EiwAHwZZxSzOpFygkfWCfYH-E7qfk-aKRFGXtj0ZfBMNcVULzzkA5SwHrUbO_hoC8bgQAvD_BwE

I have seen them in that gold colour or the remnants of it before on a few Valvers, was only a yellow zinc electro plating though & I can't recall if I've seen it on any Williams' or not. I've got brand new calipers for mine and all of the ones I could find for sale were silver plated in colour...

Piper is what you want, probably the best quality aftermarket stuff I've seen for a 172 - admittedly I've not seen a lot but I'm very happy with mine https://cp-performance.co.uk/product/cp-performance-renaultsport-clio-172-piper-stealth-stainless-steel-exhaust-system/

I run it as is, just as a manual rack basically. The reason for the pas column is that they're shorter than the manual column so it's just for fitment that it's needed

I fitted the ph1 Valver/Williams ones to my dci rack but because of the Bridgecraft bits you've got it'll depend on what the measurements are to determine which inners you'd need