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Glad you enjoyed the videos. I think you’ve got my blog mixed up with someone else’s though as I have the standard pedal assembly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The numbers look right. I think you’ve been lucky! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ready for Donny!

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The nylon cup, circlip and rubber piece are all sold as a set. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Part 13 in the second picture is probably what you’re after. Renault do this as a kit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The new fibreglass bonnet and newly replaced passenger door are being collected tomorrow from being wrapped and they will be the last peices to go back on. I've also modified the front bumper and grill. Mainly to give the centre of the grill more rigidity as there is no slam panel anymore and I...

So, 2 days to Donington and realistically only one day left to get any prep done. The current weight saving phase is complete with the rear Lexan screen going in this evening with the help from my friendly neighbourhood National Windscreens man! The doors are now finished with the longer...

This first one is footage from another car of my co-driver pedalling against another Clio. This was on the old set up and the car was a handful as you'll see. 110Nm on the front and set to full stiff. and 10' toe out shims on the rear plus PMS ARB set to a mid point. On R888Rs on Speedlines...

Only in-car footage. Let me know if that helps and I'll post it

The only significant movement in the hoses is in the engine bay so I think you'll be fine making the rest of the run in one piece. I've also run lines to a swirlpot assembly in the spare wheel well which are also grommeted. It's all been fine.

90nm on the front is still pretty soft. I ran 110nm for a couple of races before going up to a 130 with a revalve. Mikes better now, but then it is a race car. For a road/track car 110 probably would have been fine though. Corner weighting may also help you but it sounds like once AST get their...

Yep I ran straight through with a grommet. In fact my lines run uninterrupted all the way from the tank, up into the scuttle through another grommet and then to a bulkhead connector at the panel above the master cylinder. I’ve not had any problems with this so far. Sent from my iPhone using...

You can buy Athena head gaskets in varying thicknesses, although I doubt you’ll see much difference in the behaviour of the engine with that amount of skimming anyway but if you want to be sure go up to a 0.75 or 1mm. If you have the engine apart it’s relatively simple to calculate the CR by...

Have you checked the gearbox mount? With the bolt snapped on the engine mount it’s possible the extra stress on the gearbox mount has also damaged that one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Check both your belts. I wouldn’t drive it like that, it sounds like a failed bearing possibly on a tensioner. But I recon you’ll see something out of place pretty easily, it sounds that bad. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

But not Paddock Hill bend [emoji6] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I used to use a pressure bleeder and they're great to get the worst of the air out, but I've found there's no substitute for doing it the old school way with one man on the pedal and one man working around each caliper. Although knockback is a thing it's unusual to happen on new discs and I've...

Unlikely to be related to that hose. Otherwise you’d probably have the same problem all the time. I could be wrong but I would have thought either pad knockback or IMO more likely you need a bit more bleeding of the brakes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like a good plan. Good luck with it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It would be interesting to get it on the dyno before and after actually.

182 manifold is the best place to start. That and the ITG filter plus a ktec exhaust (or Pure Motorsport if budget allows) both have a stealth option, and that’s about as good as you’ll get ready for a remap. After that cams are the next upgrade. I’m not convinced the matched/ported inlets are...

No I don't think it will. 3 bar fuel pressure is all you need anyway and the dead head system helps to prevent fuel surge too.

Ah fair enough. I stand corrected. Never heard of it before. I really hope that doesn’t happen on my engine now! So far so good though... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, F4R engines don’t spin bearings ( at least if they do it’s rare) The engine builders I spoke to before building my race engine all said they would file off the tangs. It’s not worth the expense of machining the block to take them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You're right there Sam. Reliability is your friend so you can concentrate on the important stuff.

Me neither. Had a Cartek on my 350Z and never had a problem. Armtech are supposed to be good too but I've never had one.

Yes, Have to have one for racing regs. Mine is a manual one which was on the car when I bought it although I would recommend the Cartek electronic ones. By far the best and simple to wire in...

Thanks, this might be the answer. I'll update soon.

I must admit I though all phase ones had a return line and regulator on the fuel rail. That being the case you will need a FPR because your in tank pump won't have one. If you are running a non return system then you should have the regulator in the pump but you will just be limited to the 3bar...