Engine mount, cambelt side. Changed, but feels worse than the old mount.

[Simon998]

I've always had a good bit of engine slap, I fired a powerflex dogbone mount on and it didn't change much so I bought the engine mount insert.
When I went to fit the insert into the cambelt side engine mount I noticed the bolt that runs down the middle had snapped. I thought this would be the cause of the engine slap and, happy days, easy fix.

Bought a new mount, fired it into the car (along with the powerflex insert and the new rubber bumper) and went for a drive. If anything it's got worse.

I noticed when I was replacing the mount that the 4 mounting holes allow for some adjustment, Do you reckon if I adjusted the position it would have much of an effect?

 

[Ol’ Tarby]

Loosen it off and pull the engine forward, then tighten it up see if that sorts it

 

[Simon998]

I'll give that a go tonight. It seems to be mostly slapping forward when I lift off throttle.

I've an annoying squeak that I was hoping may have been related to the broken mount but alas, the noise is still there.

 

[JamesBryan]

I take it you've fitted the insert properly.

I've seen it where people have fitted them and not put that metal bracket with the black rubber tabs back in ?

This thing on the right

 

[robzracing]

Have you checked the gearbox mount? With the bolt snapped on the engine mount it’s possible the extra stress on the gearbox mount has also damaged that one.


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[Simon998]

I take it you've fitted the insert properly.

I've seen it where people have fitted them and not put that metal bracket with the black rubber tabs back in ?

This thing on the right

View attachment 1384998

Yeah, I've had loads of 106's and they have the same sort of rubber bumper thing.

Have you checked the gearbox mount? With the bolt snapped on the engine mount it’s possible the extra stress on the gearbox mount has also damaged that one.


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I had the battery out and all the bolts were tight and the hanger thats attached to the inner wing didn't have any broken mounting holes. I didn't take the mount entirely off though as it looked like a bit of a b****cks.

 

[Brigsy]

Gearbox mount probably knackered when you remove it. Mine used to move a bit with powerflex dog bone and new top mount. Gearbox mount was shot when removed.

Replaced both top mount and gearbox mount for vibratechnics. One of the best mods i have done to be fair

 

[Simon998]

Ah great. I've a new one sitting but I just couldn't be arsed fitting it as it started to rain a bit. I'll get them swapped tonight or over the weekend and let you know how I get on.

I was tempted by a second hand set of vibratechnic mounts but as its a road car I didn't want the dash to rattle more than it already does.

 

[Brigsy]

The vibratechnics mounts are alright to be fair, no massive vibration on idle etc on mine. Quite compliant compared to solid mounts which i have ran on other cars.

New gearbox mount should sort it out though.

 

[Daz...]

Have you checked the lower gearbox mount? It might have snapped the bolt on that one.

 

[adamlstr]

Vibratecnics mounts are the only way to fly.



Best thing I did to my Clio.

 

[olotrab]

They were one of the worst things I did to mine. I fitted just the top engine mount first, because the original was torn in two after 6,000 miles from new. The vibration was terrible, everything vibrated, the doors, something at the front which I think was the windscreen wiper mechanism, the glove box, even the air vents. I tried moving the engine forwards, backwards, where it landed when lowered with the jack. Nothing made any difference.
Later I fitted the Vibra technics top gearbox mount and powerflex dog bone rubbers, but they didn't cause any worse vibration.
I've got so fed up with the vibration that I have just replaced the Vibra technics engine mount with OEM. I see they have modified them slightly in that the front and rear rubber bumpers (the ones on the metal bracket in the photo 8 posts above) are now touching the outer black metal surround whereas before there was a gap. No more vibration, and I can't say the gearchange is any worse, even under hard acceleration.
It's strange that some have vibration and others don't. Are there inconsistencies in the mount, are some engines less well balanced than others, or is it just peoples idea of bad vibration are different?

 

[Brigsy]

Mine with vibratechnics mounts fitted pretty much feels like oem when driving no extra vibration. All i basically done when fitting was leave mounts bolted up but loose, let engine idle for 5 mins to find its own sweet spot then torqued them up.

 

[Behemoth]

New Vibratechincs engine and gearbox mount. Polybushed dogbone and new Febi lower gearbox mount. Feels fine at anything above the lumpy idle, and on idle the wheel vibrates but not too annoying. Same as above, let the engine find it "level" and bolt tight.

 

[flebay]

or is it just peoples idea of bad vibration are different?

This

 

[ldubl]

Mine with vibratechnics mounts fitted pretty much feels like oem when driving no extra vibration. All i basically done when fitting was leave mounts bolted up but loose, let engine idle for 5 mins to find its own sweet spot then torqued them up.

New Vibratechincs engine and gearbox mount. Polybushed dogbone and new Febi lower gearbox mount. Feels fine at anything above the lumpy idle, and on idle the wheel vibrates but not too annoying. Same as above, let the engine find it "level" and bolt tight.

Do you still have something supporting the engine whilst doing this?

If the bolts are just loosened will they provide support but let the engine find the sweet spot?

If have a jack with wood on top, would the engine idling wobble it off?!

Also read some people say do the same for the geatbox mount; same questions really! Guess you'd need two jacks, one for the engine, one for the gearbox to support both if loosening both upper engine & gearbox mounts to let settle then torque up?

 

[Brigsy]

No need to support anything loosen the bolts half a turn. Engine is not falling out