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Thanks pal. Nice to know someone's reading it! I like your thinking per Attention to Detail. Perhaps I'll start calling it ATD instead.

Thanks mate. I hope so too!

This past week has been rather hectic in the workshop. After last week's success at startup I had a few days to try and iron out a few issues ready for the rolling road on Thursday. A good part of this time was spent throwing together the bodywork just so I could transport it to Essex around the...

An overdue update as the last couple of days have been a bit nerve wracking getting ready for the first start. So yesterday was spent double checking everything as much as time would allow and then filling the cooling system, gearbox and finally the engine. Just cheap coolant as it will be...

Very nearly ready for it's first start now. Last week I finished all electrical connections and tested what I could. At the last minute I have decided to relocate the ECU slightly so I'm making a new housing for that. I really don't like it being in the engine bay but as it's always been there...

Very good. I've only been to Oulton once (not racing) and my best time was a 2.08 so it's interesting to compare the telemetry. You're just a couple of mph faster in most areas which makes all the difference. It looks like you know the circuit too!

Looks great! Was that a 2.05 around the full Oulton circuit? That's extremely good if it is. The only Clios in my race series doing those times are very lightweight and running cams and ITBs at least! If it is you need to come racing!

Looking great. Now the fun bit starts!

That's nothing, it's a balmy -5 Degrees here today! I'm thinking about putting some factor 30 on.

I think it's about 600 square but I'll check tomorrow.

Nearly all back together now. Connections for the last piece of fuel line arrived today so once that's done I can start filling up the fluids and doing an electrical check.

I hope so! the pins take the same guage wire and I doubt the fan will be doing too much work on my car.

That's great, thanks! I assume your rad is the smaller (and cheaper) of the 2 that Nick does. I couldn't warrant spending £400 on a rad! Especially in a race car! I know Nick offers the other half of that plug as an option but I'm fitting a waterproof plug myself. That plug that comes with the...

Do you have a tap and die set? Could you not just cut more thread onto the bolts? I'd be wary that a spacer could potentially allow movement in the fixing.

check the lead on the starter motor. The small one can pop off sometimes.

That's helpful thanks. Mine's a Cup too but I don't think there's any difference. Let me know about the PM one if it arrives with you before I get a chance to weigh mine. Have you ordered the 12" fan or the 10"? The 12" fits perfectly.

Ah, you know I didn't. Mainly because I forgot to weigh the standard rad to get a comparison before I chucked it. The fan is quite heavy though, possibly heavier than the standard one. (which I do still have). Bear with me I may still have to remove the rad again when I do the oil cooler...

Yep, it just bolts through the crash bar. I wish I had decided to have that rad before I sent the subframe off for powdercoating otherwise I would have removed it too. I should have removed the little tow loop underneath as well.

Again a bit more progress today. Started on the electrical connections and offereed up the ITBs to complete the fuel plumbing. And finally, sorted one small detail that's been bothering me.

Quite a productive week this week. As the sun was shining I decided to open the workshop doors and get the engine in. A combination of lifting the engine as high as I could and dropping the shell down low I managed to manoeuvre the engine and gearbox into place pretty much single handed. (a...

Thanks Neil. The brake line comes through the bulkhead just above the tunnel for the exhaust and below the heater. To be honest I haven't looked that closely at clearance for the wheels at the back yet. Hopefully it will be ok because there isn't really anywhere to clip the hoses to once you're...

I found the fitment all depends where you choose to drill the holes and mount the bias valve (if you have one) My original bias valve position left too muc slack at the back and too tight at the front so I had to move it forward a bit. All good now.

I received gommets too but actually they work well and it means fewer joints to leak!

I thought I had the wrong size connectors on my hoses from Mitch. Dropped him a message and he explained that his hoses go in the MC with both fronts nearest the pedal and the rear in either of the furthest ports. (I have a cup MC) and you blank the other one off. The standard set up was one...

Thanks. Starting to take shape now.

Thanks. I know what you mean, I rely on this forum to keep my motivation up!

Engine and gearbox finally reunited as the final push begins. Bit tight for space in my workshop! Remembered at the last minute to line up these marks from when the bottom end was ballanced. Next step is the big one. Engine into the car and then a heap of wiring and plumbing to do.

Ha Ha! I had another Clio that I sold last year that was 850kg. But the inside looked like this! But I'm also looking at doing a Carbon Fibre roof on the new one.

Thanks. Yes, at the moment still a standard loom. Stripped out in places and the engine loom has been re wrapped and labelled. I have a new body shell waiting in the wings to be built up which will be significantly lighter and will then have a custom loom made up as part of that build. Just need...

Ha Ha, thanks! I painted the engine bay myself and most of the smaller components and brackets I did myself. Engine parts and subframes etc were sandblasted and powdercoated by a company near me.