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No rust on the williams (it is battered though) my valver in the back ground only has rust on the bulkhead and the 3rd one i have has no rust and is in great condition, its for sale but is engineless, i think that car may end being another long term project!
My plan for the wiliams is to get it...
Done nothing on the weekend on the williams (although i did sell the interior out of my 172 exclusive so now thats become my 3rd shed!)
Today i had displeasure of removing this manifold, anyone who has ever removed a 1.8 16v manifold will now how crap this is, the bottom 3 bolts you can get 1...
@cs_dave i am breaking a valver with a rusty bulkhead, if your friend would like he can cut out the good panels from it that will be needed for this. Also he should speak to Austin Grimley via facebook about doing the work, he owns a bodyshop and has done many valvers/williams etc to an amazing...
Gaz GHA are the best ones available for a sensible price, theres a lad on CSOC (not sure if his on here) that gets them at a great price, i paid 425 for mine (although my rears will be cheeper than yours as its different on a mk1) Scott Weeks is his name
Or Steve in Worthing has some used ones
cleaned these then painted with kurust, will go over with black hammerite tomorrow (theres loads of these around the car but ive only done the ones by the windscreen for now so i can get a screen in it)
No boot seal
Fitted
Also fitted the door seals, thought i had a pic but i dont
Im making this thread just to keep a progress log for myself really! This is my current valver track car -
Engine is high comp 1.8 but with standard rods and mild cams and emerald ecu (the engine is a proper half assed job!) 160-170bhp
Bucket seats/omp wheel
172 wide track and steering rack...
Phone the DVLA, i bought a Williams on the weekend that had no V5, the reg didnt come up on any checks, i phoned the DVLA and they confirmed the car does exist and the reason it wasnt coming up anywhere is because it hasnt been taxed since 2001, im sure if you phone them they will tell you if...
It will be running some sort of collector to get a map sensor to work, as for it being the first in the world, well thats bull s**t as Russ's one was the first one (5 years a go?)
You can get around it by changing the ecu, the uch and key plip to others from the same model.
I have an omex and loom available (loom will need finishing) for £500 (includes comms lead) but tbh you wont need it its just the immobilizer you want to get round.
As Steve says, there is no difference in phase 2 sport subframes, do not listen to anyone who says there is, i had 4 or 5 subframes at my house last time Steve was here from various sports (172, 172 cup, 182, 182 cup) and they are all the same, this is backed up by the part numbers, I also buy...
Im definitely going to run full 172 running gear and looms in mine, next time your at yours if you could get a pic of the rear lights/front lights/wiper motor wiring that would be handy! are you running a heater in this or is looped?
Its also worth noting that it wasn't just those 7, Steve.M came to mine in the summer when i had a different set of 3 and they were all the same to, I buy all of Garys (Littlehampton breaker) and all of Steves (Worthing) and any others that are local to me so unless the 30+ ive bought this year...
They are all the same, the only one that is different is a phase 1 subframe, every other subframe has the holes drilled further out than the phase 1 subframe.
I have had a pile of 7 subframes at one time, all from various sport models
172
172 cup
182
182 cup/cup packed
172 phase 1
The only one...
Mine (tow strap has to be fitted because the original hook is broken and there is no hole straight in, its at a 90 degree)
With the mrs driving it at Brands on saturday
Just ordered this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01CNVJVBC/?tag=cliospnet01-21
What memory card should i go for? Class 6?
is there an app that goes with this to? and i assume ill jsut use the lighter socket for usb power?