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You still got a set reserved for me mate?

Mmmmm Whitby Fish and Chips

Without digging through loads of graphs, Turbos generally make more torque so I would guess they will be a bit quicker like for like power wise.

I doubt it, you would need to remove it, pull it apart, then shorten one of the rods and cut an external thread on it. I'd just try the washers between the actuator and bracket.

Hmmm I've not seen that before, guess someone has engineered it for the clocking of the turbo and the oil feed being in the way. I doubt it is one normal thread and one reverse thread so as you wind it it either extends or shortens the actuator arm. You could shim the actuator? Take it off and...

I use two of these http://www.tialsport.com/index.php/tial-products/wastegates/62-mvsx No boost issues at all

What's your plan then mate? You've had ktecs advice and a few others.

I buy must of my stuff from atp turbo http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-WGT-028&Category_Code=WGT I used the 0.5 bar/7 psi one, and didn't have any problems. But as mentioned your actuator sees two pressures, you have the pressure from your...

Hmmm I've just had a look at the turbo smart web page and it looks like a normal bleed valve to me..... And they definitely vent pressure not hold out. Where is your boost take off for the bleed valve? I used the compressor cover port on mine but I couldn't see one on yours. Are you taking it...

Admittedly your actuator is a bit on the weak side, I've just had a look back through your thread to see whether your using a t2 or t3 actuator. It looks like a t3 which should be fine, I personally would put a 7psi one on there and sort your boost control setup out. Bleed valves are pretty...

Almost a week later, any news?

As above, I'm running the turbo in parallel with the heater matrix and never had any issues either....... Is it definitely boiling or over pressurising?

Update?

My little brother has a forged R26 and he had exactly the problem with sixth. Luckily I still had the clusters out of an ND0 020 from when I'd took the LSD out. It should be an easy fix.

Hmmm I wouldn't drill your turbine T25 flange out to M10, you will struggle with the nuts. Your better off using stepped m8/m10 studs.

As above lovely seats, I've got the CS Sportsters in leather/alcantara but keep my eyes peeled for these. As Dan mentioned the cams need swapping out, they have huge duration and massive overlap so they will never work with a Turbo. Chip tried and so have I with dismal results. Stick with 1*2 cams

Actually I missed that, will go look now. Cheers for the heads up

I've got one more "refinement stage" over winter then that will be it for me also. Chassis wise mines set up for swift road use, I'm on some new B14s at the moment with whiteline bar and the 295mm Wilwood kit. I'm tempted with the AP caliper set up but it seems excessive when what I have works...

I think it's the only photo I have of it, Specky took it when I was getting my running in map, just used gate pressure that's why the boost solenoid is disconnected and the vac pipes is off. Must admit I pop in here often to see how your getting on with yours, think your the N/A equivalent of...

Yeah it now lives in the boot with the worlds noisiest fuel set up.

I feel your pain doing the loom mate, took me ages to get it all looking neat

Yeah, Ive got both solenoids and both pwm and normal switching on the ecu. So should be able to get it to work fine. I kind of thought I might end up going down this route so when I did the loom for the car I wired in the cam speed sensor and ran the cables through the loom to the ecu and just...

It's a tough call mate, both routes have been tested. Ive used 182 cams in my other set ups but I just feel that using the rs250/197 vvt pulley and rs250 catcams still give more scope for optimising.

Well it's not all good news, first off mapping was today, I honestly thought it was booked in for Friday but when I double checked on Thurs night I realised my mistake. So I've just got home, and currently have 432bhp and 390lb/ft. I'm not gonna lie it's still awesomely fast but the whole point...

Well that's disapointing mate, that was the genuine part number that they supplied to me but as you pointed out it was in 2013. Dyno is on Mon now so will let you know how I get on.

Yeah it's an F4RT Block, 197 Head, Fully Forged with a full custom turbo setup. Loads of other supporting mods to keep things in check. It drives amazingly well, think normal Clio with an alter ego. Total sleeper, just looks like a stock trophy on 2118s. Eagle eyed people might notice the 4pot...

It would take more power to get that high, looking at what power it takes to do 200mph I think it would do a genuine 180plus but Clios were never designed for those speeds. LoL

Sorry guys. You can see from my old posts I'm not really into taking photos of everything I do. The car has been up and running for a while now. After getting my base map done on gate pressure I took my time running it inwith plenty of oil changes. Had a few small issues with the crank oil seal...

The only thing I'm not 100% happy with is the gear box at the moment. I wanted to stick with the ND0 to keep equal length shafts to help with torque steer and I opted for a DCi box with an LSD. But it was obviously designed with 4 to 5k gear changes in mind. My 7.8k changes are a bit of a...

Your right, it's the planning and tinkering I enjoy the most. But apart from the gearbox issues with the JC5 each conversion has been spot on. I'm using the ND0 Box now and have done 3k without any issues. I'm sure it'll blow up on the dyno now that I've said that though........