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13bhp from 1 mod on these is bloody good, I wasnt cribbing you m8.

And then the cams jumped you 13bhp more

I'm currently on Carbon Lorraine rc5+ cant fault them no brake fade bite is the same no matter how many laps you do. Once these are done I'll jump up to RC6 which must be s**t hot!

So you had 215 prior to pistons?

Haha I've not won the lottery

Yea good point, I think it's a power to price ratio I need to look at aswell

When you did the cams did you do the valves and springs too?

Currently running 197bhp and 170lbs. Jenvey 48mm bodies GroupN timing 182 mani Meg225 injectors I was running the wrong exhaust mani gasket when it was mapped at EFI, I would like to think with the unrestricted exhaust gases now I would hit the magical 200

You have some serious money my friend! I bought the 2.1 striker kit for mine at just short of 5k. Couldnt afford the turbo and other mods to run it so had to sell up 😣 Back when I was a boy ricer

Get your minds out of the gutter,filth

So been talking with Mark and we have basically dropped the charger idea. 3.5k for the kit is just crazy. So the options are now... Low boost turbo 230bhp 230lbs £2500 ish and bolts to a standard engine. Hybrid, 182 block and bottom end with 197 head and induction, 197 pistons, angry cams...

I like ITB's noise though

You say that but my auto electrician told me to use a 60amp fuse

Needs to be bare wire and you push them into the ends on the fuse and crimp them to it

Without digging the instructions out of the garage I cant remember what each wire does

If I remember rightly you piggy back the other 5 wires

Your main power cables you could have just run straight to the battery, no messing about tracing wires back. You then have your inline fuse on either the positive or negative line near the battery Then you need your ignition live and your variable switch wired up and that's it done...

Yea you should have an inline fuse. All fuses are just thin pieces of metal designed to be weaker than your cables so if something shorts out the fuse will be overloaded and blow

Remember some wires are a constant live like door locks, immobiliser all stuff like that. So make sure it's an ignition live and it turns off or you will drain the battery in 12 hours

Yea so any 12v ignition live m8. When you turn on your ignition the ignition live turn the ECU on which then turns the mains power for the motor on the culumn

Yea hes just said the same thing to me. Dont know if my bodies will fit onto the mk3 head though

@NorthloopCup

@northloop is your man with the plan

I mean to do the final drive and the engine work. If I'm taking the box out I'll just drop the full engine again and rebuild completely. ACL bearing, arp bolts all that good stuff. 197 pistons should be fit and forget they are OE, aswell as the cams not sure which though? Maybe vernier...

So I've made up my mind regarding using a second hand SC. With no warranty and idea how the unit has been treated prior regarding fluid changes and correct fitment plus mileage put on it I dont want that risk. Still interested but I'd have to buy new. Alternatively I could fit the gripper...

So regarding the maintenance and repair of these, theres not much to say. All you can do is change the traction fluid as maintenance and there are no repairs. Rotrex say new unit only because of the tight tolerances required. https://www.rotrex.com/about-rotrex/supercharger-repairs/

Does it have wheels on? Push it outside?

Put the window down and dukes of hazard it

By half hour I mean you can have your key barrel swapped over. Column bolted in and wired up in half hour! Main power and earth direct to the battery for better efficiency

Something like a paint/wallpaper scrapper which it wide to spread the load when pressing against the trim. Screwdriver will damage your paint because you are levering on a small point