Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Yeah they’re impossible to get out without damaging them and years of corrosion and heat cycles don’t help. Just get a slightly larger drill bit and run it through.
Assuming they’re the correct ones, they’re usually tight. I always run a slightly larger drill bit through mine in case I need to remove them in the future.
Is it just for track?
Why not just get Group N timing, and have Chris at EFi remap it? It’ll transform how the car performs without breaking the bank.
Fundamentals first: suspension, geo, tyres, brakes, then do the above. I've seen too many Clios around circuits with different cam setups and...
I know what you mean. My grandkids love my Racing Blue 182. They call it "Little Bluey". They all sit in it and pretend to go to the beach and McDonald's lol
Yeah, we have the Renault parts system here and couldn't pin it down to a CUP model. It mentioned motors or something in French, but it's likely to fit. We're not 100% sure.
I wouldn't have a problem refurbing my wishbones as the paint on them is awful anyway, but they're not going to go down...
Mine is 8200276162 but it's possible 8200054197 fits as well as it's for Clio's from 01-08. Not entirely sure what the differences are, but every day is a school day with these cars. Electric?
You can still purchase the near-side wishbone (part number 8200257956) for £150, plus postage.
As for the offside wishbone, which is no longer available, it’s worth working out the cost of refurbishing an existing part by replacing the bushes and ball joints, and adding a coat of paint.
Fag...
They’re cast steel so retained their natural finish. Most steering knuckles are like that. I was going to keep mine natural after blasting them and just add high heat clear coat for protection, but decided to go Black in the end. Doing this meant i could give them lots of coats of Hydrate-80 to...
I've used Strongflex as an alternative to Powerflex in the past. For road use, I recommend going with their Red series bushings, as they're designed for daily driving comfort. If you're planning more track-focused driving, however, the Yellow series would be the better choice.
I'm a bit out of...
I use an adapter in the cigarette lighter to power the camera via USB. I've also used Anker batteries. As mentioned, modern camera batteries tend to run out fairly quickly.
Rust - they've been cleaned up but start to corrode immediately unless treated. To retain the "metal look" ACF-50, machine oil, WD-40 can hold the rust back, but a bit of a chew as it soon dries out. I use a clear coat, which does that job or a Cold Blueing oil - for guns - which leaves them Black.
I just aqua-blasted the alloys and tried to keep it OEM. It needs a refresh after over three years of use, but it's still looking decent.
I lost that little plastic piece on the slam panel where the bonnet catch meets it. It's annoying me now.