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Aye agree with the EP3 box as well, got mine with less than 20k on the clock and 5 years and 80k miles later the box was still as solid as the day I bought it.
It'll be bushes of some sort, especially if uprated they don't like cold weather. Saying that neither do worn OE bushes. Wheels off job for a visual check and get your pry bar out to check for play and noises in all bushes and ball joints or take it somewhere with hunter alignment as this...
Forget the racing series and just use it as a track car as you say. Strip, remap, tyres and brakes and away you go. Loads of weird and wonderful cars out there these days, and if you can pedal you'll be nowhere near the slowest out on track, not that that'll matter as long as you're enjoying...
If a budget build then track tyres and pads so you don't get fade to ruin the experience thats assuming everything else on the car is fresh and its aligned properly.
Then go do a track day in it, you'll soon know what it needs. I ran standard engine and suspension for around 10 days before I...
Mtec dimpled/grooved are decent, used them on a few track cars now with no complaints and i'm pretty hard on brakes with aggressive pads. Pagid OE are also decent from ECP. Done 3 track days and 5k road miles so far and they still look new.
-2.5 each side and I didn't use the slots on the AST strut for more so reckon you should get -3 each side with camber bolts. That will be a nice balance for road and track.
Nah I used the PMS with my 4100's no issues whatsoever. I couldn't stomach the cost of the AST units just for a bit more camber, albeit they'll have better bearings.
Don't bother with a decat as its a PITA come MOT time, they make the cabin stink of fuel and they use more to the gallon....oh and they give you naff all gains in performance.
Group N timing and induction kit will give half decent gains for not a lot of money, or if the belts need doing throw a...
Think he originally mentioned fitting a diff before even buying the car, that's around £2k. Suspension is expensive from Birds but cheaper options are available but you'll get a good chunk of that back, same once removing the diff if going with the M option. LCA's are a few hundred quid but...
There was definitely more time to be gained from that set up as well, this was the first and last time I got to try it at Oulton as it dropped a valve seat on the next track day in Feb and had to be scrapped, still makes me sad to watch, lol.
As above I feel 8/9kg is to soft for track/sprints but it's subjective, I like a lively rear to get the nose in easily but some will find this a little too on the edge and prefer the safety of a softer more predictable set up.
I would go even firmer at the rear and thicker arb if mine was track...
If the Clio is just a bit of fun not a daily then yeah the Yokos will do a job as you won't be out in daft conditions. They're good on track in damp/cold conditions as well which I was surprised by. £240 fitted (195/50/15) from Kwik fit last time I had a set.
Wouldn't advise AD08r's on a M3 or Clio in winter. They're not to bad once warm, but it's getting them warm. The new F1 is decent if not a bit soft, but really good in the wet.