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Meanwhile Geoff Buys Cars thinks we‘re going to be forced to sell our homes to the Government if our old houses fail to meet sustainability markers 🤯🤯🤯
Well today‘s job should have been straightforward but as usual, life finds a way of kicking you in the b****cks.
The plan was to fit my new discs and pads and TD Pro Race wheels ready for next weekends CSF meet.
My MRF Tyres arrived, so I was all set to take them down to my usual place in...
It was a dodgy captive bolt that kick started me removing my engine. I replaced them with new genuine ones, so the next person wouldn’t have to go through the same dilemma. It’ll look great when you’ve finished.
That's very good of you to offer, but I should be fine as I've been assured the tyre will be here Monday. If need be I'll just go around on my PS3s - slowly !
If it's raining I will be anyway.
I got some 15" ZTD from MOT Motorsport. The guy put his hands up and said he'd pay for it. I've had a few setbacks with stuff arriving late, but he said he'd get the tyre out to me Monday. Fingers crossed they don't screw this one up.
I went for medium in the end. They feel like concrete haha...
Understandable really. I was at Cadwell when a convoy of geordies rocked up, pitched their tents and lit a fire 🔥 on the grass. Cans and s**t everywhere. They were Frog marched off the circuit that same night.
Other than issues with tyres (nobody has any that I want) I’ve been ready for months. Although it’s effectively a shakedown for the car after completely rebuilding it. 450 mile round trip, all day on circuit and another trackday set up shortly after, what could possible go wrong 😑
Got some new MRF tyres today, took them in to a recommended fitter in Darlington and he’s put a fookin hole in one of them 😤
Ordered a single tyre this afternoon but that isn’t going to get here quickly. I’m proper pissed off.
I occasionally ran my old 182 on E10 when I couldn't get 98/99 Ron on my fuel card. But never purely on it for any long period of time.
Rather I'd fill up with E10 and then stick half a tank of Shell V Power or Tesco Ultimate when it had run down sufficiently. Nothing to report.
I’d bought some new injectors and spark plugs from Renault a while ago, but misplaced them. Had a good tidy up in the garage this morning and found them so figured I’d replace these just to be on the safe side.
I read a lot about cheap injectors from Amazon and have bought fakes before, so...
My Freddo and Jam is still in the box with my pads so will have well and truly melted by now. They’re a good bunch of lads and they give a damn. Are you going to CSF then?
Yes it was that Car Diaries bloke. He didn’t say who he’d flogged it to, but got his money back by the sounds of things. https://youtube.com/@cardiaries4705
No worries. Invest in some of their Atom Mac. If you look at my RB thread, I sprayed my brand new rear discs and dampers with it before storing it over winter. 6 months later there wasn't a single bit of rust on those discs. I think it's a bit like Lanoguard. You can literally spray it on...
Yeah, it's the sheer hardness of the Epoxy that worries me on certain parts that can flex. If you took a piece of clean steel, coated it in Epoxy and stood it upright in the water, it wouldn't rust. That I'm sure. But it doesn't self-heal. That's why it's cracked on my rear beam. It also doesn't...
I did my rear beam with epoxy directly on the steel and it's started to lift again. I've got another rear beam in the garage which I've been working on and in a few months will unleash on the group haha (sad b*****d). It's going to be a thing of beauty.
Yes. It's not perfect by any stretch though. I've seen corrosion coming through in 12 months of using it. When you can get parts off a vehicle and really get at them with chemical preparation, the results are better.
I'm always checking mine and retreating anyway, so my cars always stand the...
Yes. Epoxy on pretty much all those parts.
The process i used on those parts were:
1. Degrease
2. Descale
3. Deox-c (on really rusty stuff)
3. Hydrate 80
4. Electrox
5. Expoxy
6. Paint (where applicable)
The only one that I didn't do was that wishbone stabiliser and you can see how it's...
This is the illustration showing the bolt and bracket (arrow and x).
Don't refer to that other thread as he was after the pivot bolt which goes through the alternator.
The bolt you are after is an M10. From memory, it was M10X150-65 mm (150 = 1.5 thread, 65mm in length).
Part Number was...
I’ve always fixed my own tbh. Renault take your old starter and supply you with a reconditioned one. It’s a bugger of a DIY job though. Have you checked to see if any wires have come off the starter? It could also be TDC sensor. Or a bad connection in the wire or a blown fuse on the battery...
Yes they do. I used it on my rear beam, hubs, subframe etc. It dries really hard. Ideal for steel or alloy.
Wurth do a stone guard underseal which can be over painted. Probably better than the expoxy as it’ll be more flexible and won’t crack.
Cracking job. Just take your time! Get some Dynax S50 in the seams, behind the rear door cards and inner sills. There's a little sticker on the sill. Peel it back and shove the lance that comes with the S50 in there. It's easy to use, but ugly stuff so just use it in the places you can't see...
And this is mine 18 months later. Took this shot last Saturday after a quick wash down with Atom Mac and dried it with a cloth. I've since touched everything up again so it now looks like the above shot.
1. Degreaser
2. Agitate corrosion
3. Hydrate - 80
4. Electrox primer
5. Aerosol of paint...