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Old thread bump but nobody mentioned a small tab on top of the unit. Once the 13mm boot and torx screw are out, push the UCH up to release the tab, then move it to the right before pulling down. Otherwise you’ll just snap the plastic tab. Ask me how I know 🤦🏻‍♂️

@02teasda ??

£417 + VAT for a set though :(

Pretty much checked it all. I've been speaking to one of our techies today and he's offered up a few more suggestions so we'll have a go at those this weekend.

yeah it’s a heavy read for sure but I’ll learn a few things which is always good. My circuit car is a bit too modified - runs a Gen 90 ECU and a lot of custom parts. And I can’t see how things would just break by me changing a squib. Yes, as soon as it took a wobbler, I immediately switched...

What a great manual Rob, that’s going to be a good read, thank you. I sold YU54XBF last year to a chap on here, who subsequently sold it shortly after to another chap on here. I then sold my circuit car to a lad doing 750MC and it’s going very well. I bought another 182 BG hill climber off...

I went from looking down my nose at other drivers in their inferior cars, to wondering why on earth am I still driving a pile of shite at my age.

No, it's not daft at all. I've attempted this multiple times :) I believe my issue is a short circuit in the two washer pump feeds between the bulkhead connector and UCH. I've got continuity running from the squib to the UCH. And also from the pump connectors to the bulkhead connector. So the...

Good to know Daniel. I'm just going to send it anyway as it'll at least help me narrow things down.

So after @Brigsy advice above, my old brain has been ticking over. I haven’t done any checks on the car since Sunday afternoon and yet in that time, the car has gone through different states. * Sunday 2:30 pm - a turn of the ignition = engine turns over, doesn’t fire, throws a ton of error...

When comes back to me I will, but not sure when that will be as my mate is building his new engine and has borrowed it from me.

This is the tool. I got mine from my local Renault dealer, so you might get lucky. It cost me £80 and has proven to be worth the money so far. I‘d read a few posts of people struggling to get the seal in without it leaking, so I didn’t think it was worth the risk. Not sure how far the seal...

Final checks for the day were to test all the relays both under the bonnet and UCH. Two of the relays in the UCH area are washer headlamp relays. Everything checks out ok. It’s starting to get too cold now so I’m done for the day. I haven’t pulled the UCH out yet. Not sure what I’m...

Pretty much stripped back the wiring on the engine loom. It’s so clean. Zero issues with corrosion. Retaped everything back up so it’s nice and neat. Had a good look at the connections on UCH. Again nothing obvious. No damp, no corrosion. Checked relays. All clean. I’d recharged battery...

As above and remember to push the pistons all the way in on your new calipers, so you don’t have to do it once connected up. These are also worth buying for future swaps. https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/m10x1-female-blanking-cap https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/brass-m10-x-1-male-blanking-plug...

I’m going to take the whole engine loom out and inspect it. Seems like a good place to start.

PMS 3.5 slash cut. They come free with an exhaust 😂

So after changing the washer pump a few weeks back, the cars been magic. Other than needing the tracking resetting after testing the ASTs, it’s been faultless. However, after a quick drive down to the Gare this morning, the washer pump stopped working again. Now I wasn’t planning on getting...

I wish it wasn’t the case. The time to really capitalise on values was during and just after lockdown. The markets are correcting themselves and I don’t see ICE cars ever attaining such heights again. Manufacturers have been told the score and are going full steam ahead. They have no choice...

I'd swiftly trade it. Sadly, even well-maintained classic sporty hatchbacks face an imminent fate akin to traditional fuel vehicles. Underwriting challenges for gas-guzzlers and EU restrictions on petrol car production is intensifying. Forecasts of petrol cars in showrooms by 2035 seem off...

I couldn't possibly say his name but he's not a million miles away from us. Yeah had both ESP/ABS lights on. The ABS light will have come on because the giro in the sensor couldn't figure out what the hell was going on.

I mentioned this, Jon, because it plays a role in the functioning of the Anti-lock Braking System (ABS). My first circuit car build had to go to a 'specialist' as I couldn't get the ABS lights to go off. New ABS sensors, ABS rings, and two angle sensors later, it came back no better. A few...

Also check the Yaw Rate Sensor. I’ve seen those get taken out of track cars to “save weight”. Might be missing, faulty or you’ve unplugged it 🤷🏻‍♂️ Worth checking.

See if you can lock the brakes up to engage the ABS. Gravel car park, somewhere like that. Then just keep bleeding as there’s still air in there. ABS light could be a dodgy or dirty wheel sensor, small crack/chip/rust in ABS rings, steering angle sensor, although ESP and Serve light usually...

I've collected a few rear seats which look like they've never been sat on. I've spoken to a local upholsterer and he said there's enough material to rebuild the front seats should I need to. Mine are nice in the RB but good to know should they start looking tired.

I like a standard car tbh but Turinis are nice. Probably didn’t help 😂

Sorry mine are 24mm. For original 182 Cup wheels. Any of the below will fit. 8200719981 25mm 8200030701 25mm 7703003008 24mm

Not uncommon to leak. Just use a smear of gasket sealant along the face of the bracket and it should seal.

The small heat shield is just that. NLA. Bolts off the top of my head are M12 x 1.5. Thread Length 22mm.

Lovely work Jon