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Mine lasted 12 track days before it shat itself and slipped the timing, got it all fixed with uprated 197 cams and that lasted all of 300 miles before it snapped a valve destroying the engine in the process. Great cars when working properly and really do punch above there weight on track but I...
Could just be the callipers sticking slightly creating more heat. Also is your brake fluid header open without any insulation between the manifold as this creates massive heat soak.
I've never once boiled even standard fluid on my 182 with all sorts of pads (DS2500, DS3000, DS1.11, CL5+, CL8...
Snapped belt on the way to having the belts done taking valves with it, then 300 miles later and near £1500 it dropped a valve seat in cylinder 3 so is now scrap!
As Sam mentions start in the middle and dial them in to conditions and personal preference. I prefered the rear stiffer than the front with AST's on 9kg front and 11kg rear and anti roll bar hooked up on soft, even ran like this in the wet on AD08R's without issue.
I just used this page below...
Just bushes really, driveshaft’s will take more stress as will wheel bearings but no point using slicks without decent coilovers, stiff springs and at least -2 camber.
You cant beat the r888's for the price and wear rate, they also work in damp/light rain with no puddles and they can be had part worn for peanuts on eBay.
Very nice, albeit far too heavy for track but still capable non the less. It'll probably get through a set of tyres and brakes in a day if really pushing.
EPAS is definitely different on track due to it feeling more artificial, but with that you can adjust it to your personal preference of artificial and factor in its much more reliable then yes its better than HPAS.
Do i personally like the feel of HPAS more, yes, is it quicker on track nope!
Mine passed a few weeks ago with no airbags, rear cage, 1 x seat and harness, decat etc. Just find a friendly MOT place and throw them a score.
I just have an agreement that if i got pulled on it from the fuzz that I'd say i fitted/removed said items after the MOT.
Try getting rid of the retaining clips, add some copper grease to the end tabs and piston and go out and get them smoking so they fade, leave to cool overnight and they should be fine.
If non cup packed chassis yes, if cup packed (60mm) then they are wider but the non cup rings do still work if you line them up directly underneath the sensor.
Yeah mate f**k all the bolts off, the bumper still fits nicely without any bolts. I could just pull mine on and off without undoing anything. Much easier for track and maintenance.