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I find them fine on the road when cold TBH mate. But if you're car is predominantly used for fast road then they are total overkill as they only really come into there own at high temp. Mintex M1155 are a good pad that I've used on road and track and are only £69 a set.

Great buy mate, these have got to be one of the best all rounders on the road. Lovely in white as well. Just keep an eye on those alloys as they tend to crack easily.

Not long! Standard tune, no assists, but on a pad so infinity easier, lol.

Aye, same harness as mine. So that plate can be used without welding to fit under my seat for the additional strap for a 5/6 point?

Did you not need to weld in the plate for the harness eye bolt? I need one to upgrade to a 5/6 point harness as my OMP 4 point loosens and rises up from my hips on track, making the shoulder straps loose as well.

Just tweeted Projectcars as the bugs online are becoming tedious, hit and miss if you get a racing line, jumping and freezing loads and not letting you alter assists stating N/A when you clearly set them as free in online set-up. Anyway they tweeted back saying a patch was incoming...

Avon ZZR's....well better than both! Come in a 20 Treadwear vs 50 with the 888R and AR1. Great tyre and only £100 a corner in 15s.

How's everyone getting on in the Caterham at Knockhill in the community event? Managed a 51.204 with standard tune, don't want to change anything though as it's so much fun.

You could break it for mods as is a get £1200 H&R adjustable coilovers, £450 7 x 15" Speedline 2118 alloys with nearly new Nankang NS2R tyres, 450 DS 2500 pads, £30 Power flow de-cat pipe with Yozzasport rear section, £50 Cup rear spoiler and front splitter, £100 Updated Dog bone mount, £30...

Looks good, offer £1500 and see what he says. TBH with its mods it's probably worth the £1800 if it's clean and hasn't exceeded the mileage between belt changes.

Yeah they are constructed on the cheap and would struggle to withstand a high impact and could actually spear you in a big roll over scenario.

EBay, but if you plan on driving the car then I wouldn't bother as they could potentially cause more harm than good in a decent shunt.

@JimF go out when you can and get the ABS to fire a minimum of 5 times, grass or gravel is easiest. Then re-bleed and see how it feels, if better but still not right do it again until right. That's how Ive got rid of air in the ABS pumps on 2 occasions now when switching out the pump.

That's Oulton now sorted!

Then why is every lap record set by a wheel if its easier with a pad? Oh and 'all' your records on PC1 are set with a pad? A quick browse on the PC leaderboards at Brands Indy with the TME Evo says otherwise as below, controller: wheel with ABS on and Stability on! Let me guess its harder on PC...

Oh right...OK! Lets just agree to disagree hey.:up:

Total build cost £108k 😂

I honestly wouldn't bother unless you want them for the aesthetics, I've done the 4 pot thing on my FF and in all honesty a set of rebuilt OE calipers with HC discs and DS1. 11 pads is all you'll ever need. I found the 4 pots way to grabby with DS3000 pads and they just didn't suit the lighter...

Does the pedal go hard after a few pumps with the ignition off, then with your foot still on the brake pedal sink down when the engine is turned over? If not could be a servo issue. TBH though it sounds more like air in the system.

Yet as quick as you with a wheel making you utter gash!