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As above likely to be a full pump issue if fuel starvation is being detected, on the MPS engine the fella who tuned mine and most of the forum cars wouldn't touch a map unless the fuel pump internals had been uprated, no sure if its similar on the Meg engine though but a lot of the VAG TC cars...

Awesome car mate, best build I've seen so far. Subscribed.

Mine has the standard narrow rings on now, I just had to centre them under the sensor, worked fine... for now!

Could be tie rods if its wandering, my Mondeo was all over the place with them worn.

Yes it will likely be a front abs ring, is yours a 182 with cup suspension? CLIP is Renaults diagnostic tool. You shouldn't need this for a broken ring. Just jack the front of the car up (safely) and take both front wheels off and pop your head under behind the brake discs and you'll see the...

Yes mate.

The ABS won't normally deactivate to 50/50 bias with a broken/corroded abs ring, and the lights would go out with the ignition turned on. It's only when you're on the move and the sensor(s) can't pick up the sine waves of the faulty abs ring that the lights would come one. I never got any...

Anything is possible regarding the electrics on these cars, lol. Replace the brake switch if you've already ordered it, then take it from there. Just to let you know your car has now 50/50 brake bias and in an emergency stop your rear wheels will lock up first which in turn with try and bring...

More than likely a sensor then, save yourself the messing and get the car hooked up to CLIP as this will tell you exactly where the issues is within the abs system.

Forgot to add if it's an abs ring they don't tend to bring up a warning light but instead give pedal fart at very low speeds when braking, if a sensor or anything to do with the abs electrics then the lights you have mentioned won't go out with the ignition turned to position 1.

First thing check the free stuff like the ABS fuse, then the rings for cracks and corrosion, then the ABS sensors are clean and gapped correctly, reset the brake switch etc... Could be coincidental mate yeah, I've had an abs pump give up just sat on the drive, the things you've done wouldn't...

Could be the brake switch, abs fuse, abs sensor, abs ring, abs pump, front to rear abs line...

Is the handbrake light on as well?

I've got this mate and is the best mod I've done to the Clio so far, the mid depth dish brings the wheel closer and at a better angle towards the driver. Also if you sign up to their email you'll get a 10% discount code...

Just some light braking say 5-10 times 30-10mph. Then ramp it up a bit 5-10 times 50-20mph with moderate pressure, then let cool whilst driving for a mile or so. Then 80-30mph hard braking until the brakes fade, then drive for 10 minutes or so with minimal braking remembering not to keep your...

Fitted a poly dog bone, and bedded in a set of Mintex M1155. Not much change if any with the dog bone, the OE mount was in very good condition though.

Leaves me wanting a cup, very nice indeed.

It has 4 ports for individual lines to the compensator, onto each caliper, instead of 2 ports leading to an abs pump on all other 1*2' MC's.

195 or 205/50/15. I run staggered 205 front and 195 rear.

Just snap the plastic hangers, mine has nothing supporting it just the clips in the wings and it's solid. Can literally take the bumper off in 30 seconds.

£6.33 delivered :grin...

I hadn't experienced oversteer once in mine in over a year and 7 track days, but then stiffened the chassis with a half cage and its become a little more lively at the rear, nothing dramatic though. As above on a standard car if your experiencing oversteer your entry is to hot.

Just typing exactly the same, lol.

Yep, sounds good.

http://www.cliosport.net/threads/yanoo-stiff-shift-pricing-possible-group-buy.803352/

They would mate yeah but it's a ball ache as you have to pull the stub axels off. What did your rears look like? Mine where - 1.5 both sides which I'm happy with.

As much as you can on bolts, you'll get -2.5 max. Leave the rears as long as they're negative and fairly equal.

I looked into these a while ago Carl, seem decent for the money.

I've pulled the front liners of mine to aid cooling via the fog lights, but tbh probably doesn't do much as there's the carbon canister driver side and horn/acoustic valve passenger side in the way...

Get a set of camber bolts and ask for as much negative camber as possible, and doing 5/6 days a year you need a spare set of wheels and track rubber really as you'll just be burning through (unevenly) your road tyres at cost.