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Idle Control Valve . Take the rubber pipe off and run the engine , rev up the engine using the throttle linkage and spray carb clean into the sucking air passage and this will clean the valve . These valves get gummed up over time .

You need a new solenoid by the sounds of it . If you are any good with electrics , put a volt meter across the two wire pins at the lock and test for power 12v and earth . If all ok - I'd say you need that solenoid

The threaded part that screws into the engine block is metric and that's not my worry . It's the thread in the sandwich plate that I'm after , so I can order the right one

I'm ok with metric threads , but this 10JIC , AN10 is doing my head in . Basically I have a basic sandwich plate as you see in the pic , and want to run a 1/8NTP oil temp sensor for the gauge , so what sandwich plate do I get that has 1/8NTP in it and what size larger holes to get so my hose...

I'm sure I've said this in another post , I removed the throttle potentiometer, two screws and lubed behind on the spindle , also I squirted 3in1 oil inside the butterfly spindle and worked it through. I'm sure I removed the butterfly itself and the shaft and lubed accordingly , but your welcome...

Ph1 Throttle Cable Replacement...help and advice https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=http://www.cliosport.net/index.php?threads/Ph1-Throttle-Cable-Replacement%2E%2E%2Ehelp-and-advice.788421/&share_tid=788421&share_fid=191&share_type=t

Check the inertia cut out switch if you have one . Mine didn't start Saturday after being left for a week and it was that . Reset it and it fired up

Seems to be getting a bit of an issue lately especially Bedford. It looks like it'll fit , I guess it'll depend on how long your runners are .

Bet you haven't been into the workshop and asked a Renault tech to have a little look [emoji102] in his tool box . Bound to be one in there [emoji1303]

What with track Db triggers becoming ever so tight now and being pinged by throttle bodies induction noise , I'll keep my RS2 thanks . With regards to not enough plenum volume @NorthloopCup , you prob know more about that than I do as I have your old one [emoji12]. It suits me for now [emoji1303]

Can you get a video up , this is entreiging so to speak. Renault's love a little water loss and water entry lol .

First things first , are you using the air con ? This will help in clearing the screen . 2nd : there is a possibility that it could be the water that is generated from the air con and is not draining from the box . Reason I say this is because you say it stinks [emoji40], stagnant water from...

You can see the ring needed and the washer needed in these pics . Call demon tweeks they might sell spares

Got any pics

Second that [emoji832]

Quick eBay check , and this pops up .

I've just ordered a new one from Renault for the Ph1 , your's will be the same . I don't have a part number now but will tomorrow .

That's the Wifi dongle I use and it works well on other cars , but as my Ph1 is 2000 its functionalities are limited . It should work with yours ok

Check the connections on the rear lamps themselves , poss has corrosion on the terminals

That looks to be correct as it has the suppression resistor in it also @Alorko

I stripped my throttle body right down , took out the flap and removed the shaft , there is a seal on both ends , I doubt that will allow air to be passed . I used wet and dry very fine paper with the oil and rotated the shaft where it would locate in the body , doing this removes any crap and...

I am using HLT Grand Prix edition with a Wifi dongle . Prior to that I used a Bluetooth dongle with a jailbroken 4s phone and it was the same , no info out of it at all except battery volts. I will look into it further at some point but don't have time ATM .

Doesn't work well on my Ph1 Considering an RSTuner gets all the info out of the ECU - this doesn't seem to work for me coupled with HLT. And I don't want to spend any more on an app that's not going to function because my cars OBD is not supported. I think these really only work well on PH2...

I agree , turbo comes with its own set of issues . If your not a mechanic , it can get costly keeping it tip top. Low boost kits are available from engine dynamics .

They do indeed @car.crash. Run in between the brake pipe and the heat shield . You can see just about where they come out from master cylinder area.

That looks absolutely shocking . Looks like a shopping trolley bar , re-worked with side skirts that bolt to the OE seatbelt moveable point . That wouldn't hold s**t in an accident imo

The Heater box is secured with 2 bolts which are covered by the heater blower motor . The motor needs removing first along with the wipers and then it'll all come out so you can sort the issue you have . I would use a cup heater blower as its smaller and easier to fix if it needs a motor later...

The sole purpose of the conversion for me was that I wanted rid of the pump , so in my mind, when I would be out on track I wouldn't have to worry about the pump shitting itself and ruining my engine . As said before - ditch it. With regard to wanting to run epas and retain the air con ...

The whole point of the term EPAS , means electric steering . So no hydraulic !!! Either do it properly or not at all .