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I was in the same predicament.
I was running a PMS a/c delete kit and contemplated getting the idler wheel to replace the pump wheel. It worked out to be £100. So with that in mind , I sourced a cup bracket and alternator , and sold my PMS bracket and so it cost me nowt really , just removal...
I take it the standard setup is still in place and standard aux belt setup still ?
I run a cup bracket setup and no pump at all . That's the best way poss imo.
Steering rack bungs in and looped along the body
Pins 26 and 56 are fault finding diag lines from ECU to OBD plug . So i'd say try and hunt for something that communicates first on those wires before spending any money.
@Flam686
I run Harry's Lap Timer and I can't get jack s**t out of the OBD dongle.
The only data bus wires in the plug i found is for airbag , air con , abs , engine.
All these are direct single wires into the control units .
I'll have a look at the wiring diagram when I get a mo
Sorry guys , didn't see replies . Yes battery volts is all ok , basically it has run in the past and ran for a couple of months as it was mapped and everything . Then it started messing about .
So the mapper had to install a new map on it as it was corrupt , and that got it going . All was well...
The relay your after is the one at the back on the right . So it's closest to the wing .
Underneath is yellow wires , a thin grey wire and 2 larger pinkish wires that feed the clutch .
If the ECU doesn't see any gas pressure IE the system is empty it won't send an earth signal down the small...
Is there anyone on here that has good knowledge with fitting and wiring up the ECU .
I have some issues with one I have fitted and need advice to find if its knackered .
Fitted it to a 182 with throttle bodies , it's been mapped .
More so than not it doesn't start and I've checked all my...
So long as the resistor is still in place on the fan unit and in circuit - the fan switch will work fine .
Just connect the 1st switch output to the slowest speed and work through to 2nd and 3rd.
As its a 3 speed position - you choose what you want speed wise to work .
I have one of those in my box , these are ok , but avoid quick and abrupt gear changes as the throw is shorter and the syncro's will take a beating more so as such . I've been gentle with mine and all is good so far .
Had it in for about 6 years now .
The differences are K4M has oval/square ish outlets and F4R has round isn't it ?
If the 172/182 mini is the same width then it probably wouldn't be restricted .
I'd try the K4M gasket against the F4R mani
K4M doesn't have any springs at all . It's a flat mated flange manifold to down pipe , the flexy joint takes up the movement .
K4m exhaust outlets on the head are different to those of 172 , 182 .
Pretty much doubt it'll fit .
If you read this thread - the fella had to make his own exhaust...
I suspect maybe a break in the loom mate .
You'll need to do a pin check on the loom .
They give trouble where the loom runs over the gearbox in that plastic bit.
I've just read your Pm