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Obvious thing that may have been overlooked, have you got directional tyres on the front? If so, are they both on the correct way?

regarding your lights, we have all recently been buying the 3M drill kit from ebay (theres a thread on here). Someone gave it a go and it did a really good job! seen here: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?666317-3M-Headlight-correction-clean-pics

still think the black looks the best tbh.

Fo rthat price I would either get the mutant I posted above or this fli monoblock (which is slightly better at 600wrms@2ohms) http://audiovisualworld.co.uk/shopping/fli-audio-fl1200m-fli-loaded-1200-watt-mono-car-amplifier.html I would probably keep the subs in seperate compartments. You dont...

design looks good. You going to put a seperator in to keep the subs seperate? Whats you budget on the amp?

ah right, sorry I thought you needed to clear solid blackages. For soap suds etc the 120bar will be fine :)

nope havent had a close look yet. My solution above covers me from all angels in case they LCD driver used is not usable (unmarked etc). If I find that there is a usable driver already there, then great :)

I agree with this 100%, its always better to have a bit move power than not enougth. I also opt for sealed boxes, makes them much more punchy.

no nothign like that. not sure you read the spec of this one correctly! "400 watts 2 channel amplifier. Continuous Power Output 2 x 65 watts at 4 ohms, 2 x 90 watts at 2 ohms, 1 x 150 watts at 4 ohms bridged." Something like this would be better...

yeah your RAF guy should be able to deciper that :) I imagin I could make them for around £20. Trouble is with sellign them, I would have to get them CE marked etc. I would just sell them for £30 (£10 for my time), but then if they were to go wrong and casue damage to the car in some way I would...

you will need a 2x200Wrms at 4ohms, or 1x400w at 8ohms, or the best option imo as it will be cheaper - 1x400w at 2 ohms.

saying that, isnt there stuff you can get to repair damaged bearing etc?

this has been pointed out already. But it might also have to be done on a replacment engine also (probably, unless they themselve have just got the belt done, but do you trust that?).

You cant just replace the shells if the crank is scored on any of them. your options are 1. rebuild the bottom end from a none-running doner engine, 2. replace whole engine. Both are going to cost you quite a bit tbh.

Can't the box in the 172/182 not be taken off to the side to expose the clust/flywheel (I dont know as I have never tried)? I did it this way in my D7F a while ago as I didnt have an engine hoist. If you do have a hoist then yes it probably is more straight forward to lift it out. I still...

you would need to make an LCD driver to match the LCD display in the clio. This can be done with 1 PIC MCU (something in the 18F series) and a few 16bit* latches. You will need to program the MCU to store a 14bit value to the latch. its as simple as that really. Im thinking about doing...

the mutant subs are quite good for the money, I used to have one connected to a mutant SP280 amp with good results. iirc they are about 200wrms? To get the most out of your amp (if it will allow for it, you will have to check the minimum load ratings), you will want to wire them up in parallel...

yeah you can replace just the bottom end. If the crank is scored then you will need ot replace it and the shells. as it can be done with the engine on the car, its the route I would take. You would probably have to do the belts etc even if you bought a second hand engine so I cant see it costing...

I really like 1, 5 and 6 the best. hope you submitted those! :)

both of those are as good as each other tbh good luck choosing lol.

your best bet would be to use some speaker cab designer software (like winISD), input the parameters of the sub and play around with the sizes. You will know why you have got it right as the audio curve will be as flat as possible for as much of the low end frequency range as possible.

yep definitely, not arguing with that.

I was thinking he could salvage one from a brakers maybe.

some amazing shots this month, not really worth me entering mine, they are in a different legue!

or you cuold just get a replacement crank (both is an option).

Read my posts again (all of them) and you will see that I have said with correct/matched speakers. I have not once said it will produce bass from his current speakers.

the connect2 adapter displays 'renault'. You can also program a PIC uM to make it display whatever you like.

sounds like a big end bearing has gone. provided the crank shaft is ok: sump off, unbolt rods, crank out (optional), replace bearing shells and put back together. else you will also need a new/used crank.

the waves are probably more due to a poor quality cable. What version of window are you running? To check screen res + refresh rate on XP, right click on the desktop and select properties. Then click the advanced tab. To check screen res _ refresh rate on 7, right click and click screen...

You need higher pressure for a good drain cleaner. the msller ones will clean drains but wont be good at removing a blockage. Mine came with a drain cleaner included (its a hose with a specail end the hase 1 forward jet + 3 back facing jets). No they can't be had for around £130 mark, more like...