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No need to change the subframes.

There two type of internals as well some have the rear sensor on them others don't most important if you need the sensor you get ones with the sesnor wire on them. If you don't then you cna get either type.

Won't have it. Some cars have it usualy the import ones have it enabled. Due to the work involved in enabling it nope not a chance.

If your car doens't have ABS then you should have a attachment bar on the rear axle to the body which takes account of how the rear beam sit and ajusted the pressure on the lines accordingly you need to adjust this if you lower the car else the car thinks its got weight in the back and henbce...

Not from memory do a search I've written it before now a few times though. £50ish.

How many still work today though. Theres more to life than cars. I think there 4 others.

Do a search. Bumper ins't a straight fit.

It will be the resister pack most likly.

Yep.

Its torque which gets them. 240NM ~180lb will have ti slipping depends hgow bad you accept and how good you get some slip at less some at more.

40Nm from memory it not much. I do them up and then try go for a drive then check them again.

Forget where you live I'd only go to a few places but for a 1.2 unless you have other mods forget it for the minimal gains.

Err I'll have to check ages ago i wrote this. From a guess it was from the old Rencault tech manaual for them or might have been my service book when I get chance will check.

Get the 1.4 ECU custom mapped or maybe a 1.6 map will be ok depends on ECU etc is the easy answer.

Yep thats the right bits 2 10mm nuts hold it on on either ide cannot go to far wrong just make sure you pluged it in the right way round else won't start. Could be coil pack ECU is possible the cars ECU's are rubish realy and the looms for failure. Cannot swop bits as the ECU's are...

Because you can always up the cliamed power gains that way. Plus people want to here 200hp not 170 ATW as that doens't sound as good.

Try Birchdown Auto Services (North West) there near whitchurch about 10 miles south of chester down the A41 01948 860335 I'd happily recomend them every time.

Ben I've Pm'd you.

Can already order it. No idea on list price but judging from the price got it it will be £250~300 extra. Recaros and cup setup will be the very popular options you cna get them for not much extra and I'd go for it if you can for reasle etc. Different cars though.

Thats not a sagfe way of testing use a proper point or get a cage welded in. It need to take a good few tones of load when you have a crash so a hard tug ins't good enough You'll never say I'm right as if you ever have a crash and do chnage th point and your come away Ok then you won't say it...

Its the resister pack £90 from Renault for a new one. Its easy to change its under the scuttle panel under the bonnet.

There fine 100k is nothing if its been maintainced realy.

ktec sell the springs there some coilovers kits out for the car k and R I think do a set. Acceleration etc will only make a difference is the circumferance of the tyre gets bigger you could get some very low profile and think 18 and have a fater accelerating engine than a car with 15's and...

You can get the original build sheets but since Cup suspeion could be removed etc only way to be sure to to get the wheel on lock and measure if your that bothered. You could order a 182 with the suspension but not the spolier packs so the splitter makes no difference. You can.

Slcok lines are OK and caliper and brakes there form as said a 150hp car and the pads infact come from an even more powerful car and the disk from another so no worries I've only once had trouble with fade and that at Bedford which is known for its ability to fade any brake setup plus the brakes...

They will be but I'd either do somehting right or not at all if you do want to save a few quid then spend on a good set of springs Pi's are IMO near enough unsafe for road use.

Continental Premium Contact went out of production about 15 month ago. the 2's are as good by miles for track work etc as they melt but on balance or many other tyres I'd have them.

Can never had to much grip won't cause any trouble realy just need to use the car fully with normal tyres else if you bolt slicks on and have a off your going a lot quicker than road tyres plus the limits are smaller.

If you've not done track days etc IMO use normal road tyres preferably your normal road wheels and use them as fully as you can or esle swop to running 15's all the time as there cheaper since you'll know how the car handles all the time then. Forget any sticky tyres until you can fully use...

Its less stupid when you think there few Mk3 owners on here and only 1 as far as I know has ever lowered it on springs and that was a 197.